- Location
- East of Cincinnati
Search for an FSM on google. (I hear Great Lakes 4x4 *might* have some..)
Flying Spaghetti Monsters?
Haynes will do fine for a wiring diagram, and you don't have to stea-- I mean, "requisition" one online.
$.02...
Robert
-
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push button start
- Thread starter Fidget360
- Start date
Flying Spaghetti Monsters?
Haynes will do fine for a wiring diagram, and you don't have to stea-- I mean, "requisition" one online.
$.02...
Robert
swbooking
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Riverside/Running Springs, Ca
I find that the Haynes manuals arent that good for diagrams. Half the time I cant find shit in them.
MY $.02...
MY $.02...
- Location
- Lafayette, IN
I did this the day after I got my '89, because the tumbler was all messed up. I could turn the key to on, and even start it, but it would take 10+ minutes of fiddling with it to turn it off again. I had blisters just from turning the damn thing off.
It's fairly easy to pull off. I didn't have an FSM at that point, just a trusty digital multimeter. Basically I pulled the panel off of the steering column and pulled the connector off of the ignition switch, then used the audible tone on the ohm meter to figure out which pins on the ignition switch were connected in OFF, ACC, ON, and START. Then I spliced onto those wires and ran them up where the radio should have been, and wired it up to a cheap autozone ignition switch (which has four poles on it - battery, accessory, ignition, and start). Later on I added separate switches and a push button, so it could be a whole big ordeal whenever I needed to start it
The wires going to my ignition switch were:
- Red - supplies constant +12V from battery
- Brown - receives power when key is in ON position, but NOT when starting
- Orange - same as brown
- Yellow - receives power when key is in ON position *and* START position
- Green - only receives power when key is in START position
I made the assumption that brown and orange were accessories (ever notice how your accessories go away when you're cranking), yellow was ignition (needs constant power even when cranking) and green was start (obviously only getting juice when cranking). Verified it later against the FSM once I got one.
These were all moderately sized wires, 12-14 ga or so. There were also two smaller wires (18-20 ga) that were purple and gray, which get shorted to each other while the key is in the START position. They are on a separate connector and I didn't bother hooking them up. No problems so far, but again it might be worth checking an FSM to be sure. The wire I spliced in to run to my switch panel was a bit smaller, only 16 ga probably, but as far as I can tell the wires don't get warm. They're not sourcing much current as relays or solenoids are used to actually engage things like the fuel pump, starter, etc.
I am in the process of going back to a single ignition switch, which I will probably mount where the factory clock is. This keeps it in a standard location and will work pretty well I think. Note that I didn't have to wire into anything under the hood or snake wires all over the place or run thick wire directly to the starter, or anything crazy like that. Good luck!
It's fairly easy to pull off. I didn't have an FSM at that point, just a trusty digital multimeter. Basically I pulled the panel off of the steering column and pulled the connector off of the ignition switch, then used the audible tone on the ohm meter to figure out which pins on the ignition switch were connected in OFF, ACC, ON, and START. Then I spliced onto those wires and ran them up where the radio should have been, and wired it up to a cheap autozone ignition switch (which has four poles on it - battery, accessory, ignition, and start). Later on I added separate switches and a push button, so it could be a whole big ordeal whenever I needed to start it
The wires going to my ignition switch were:
- Red - supplies constant +12V from battery
- Brown - receives power when key is in ON position, but NOT when starting
- Orange - same as brown
- Yellow - receives power when key is in ON position *and* START position
- Green - only receives power when key is in START position
I made the assumption that brown and orange were accessories (ever notice how your accessories go away when you're cranking), yellow was ignition (needs constant power even when cranking) and green was start (obviously only getting juice when cranking). Verified it later against the FSM once I got one.
These were all moderately sized wires, 12-14 ga or so. There were also two smaller wires (18-20 ga) that were purple and gray, which get shorted to each other while the key is in the START position. They are on a separate connector and I didn't bother hooking them up. No problems so far, but again it might be worth checking an FSM to be sure. The wire I spliced in to run to my switch panel was a bit smaller, only 16 ga probably, but as far as I can tell the wires don't get warm. They're not sourcing much current as relays or solenoids are used to actually engage things like the fuel pump, starter, etc.
I am in the process of going back to a single ignition switch, which I will probably mount where the factory clock is. This keeps it in a standard location and will work pretty well I think. Note that I didn't have to wire into anything under the hood or snake wires all over the place or run thick wire directly to the starter, or anything crazy like that. Good luck!
maxxpehling
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
Hate to beat a dead horse.
I have a hot 12v bus in cab. Can I run it to a switch, then wire tap to a wire to run the accesory stuff. For two reasons, so the stuff will run with no key, and because my ignition is fubar and accesory stuff does not work with the key in the on position.
I have a hot 12v bus in cab. Can I run it to a switch, then wire tap to a wire to run the accesory stuff. For two reasons, so the stuff will run with no key, and because my ignition is fubar and accesory stuff does not work with the key in the on position.
- Location
- Lafayette, IN
If your 12v bus is thick enough gauge, it is just a matter of running it to the switch and then tapping into the brown/orange wires coming down from the ignition switch (they are used to power accessories). If your bus is really light gauge (say lighter than 14-16) then you might want to use it to toggle a relay, and have the relay contacts connect the red ignition switch wire (+12 supply) the brown/orange wires.
Not sure how fubar your wiring is already, but I recommend buying a new ignition switch for $10 and see if that gets things working again. My push button start was cool but I ended up buying a new ignition switch and lock cylinder and putting it back to normal.
maxxpehling
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
I have a new ignition switch in it, the rod or the linkage inside the column is binding.
I can start it, but it does not spring back from the start position, so I have to turn it back to "ON" manually or the starter will not engage.
when it is running in the on position none of my accessory stuff works. So, do I need to run hot switched power to the brown/orange wires it will power my accessories? and then what do I run for my push button start?
I can start it, but it does not spring back from the start position, so I have to turn it back to "ON" manually or the starter will not engage.
when it is running in the on position none of my accessory stuff works. So, do I need to run hot switched power to the brown/orange wires it will power my accessories? and then what do I run for my push button start?
- Location
- Lafayette, IN
Brown and Orange for accessory power, I just used a 250VAC/15A toggle switch, or if you're paranoid use a relay. Green wire is for the starter solenoid. So with a toggle switch and a push button, you should be able to make it all work.
I thought the colors were the same for all of the years, but those colors are just for the 87-90 years I think. 91+ gets a little bit different.
Looking at the FSM it looks like Orange and Violet/Yellow are for accessory, and plain Yellow is for the starter. Obviously when you're messing with the wires you'll see the colors you have, so if you're not sure post back here and I'll double check.
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