PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
^i agree.
Finished up the hood pins
Finished up the hood pins
Projext "V8 XJ" Build
- Thread starter PhotoJared
- Start date
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
It's been like 2 weeks since last update!
I should be sending my wiring harness and ECU in next week!
I haven't really done much either. I'm kind of at a stand still until I get the harness.
I've been thinking should I cut and fold the quarters or not???
I should be sending my wiring harness and ECU in next week!
I haven't really done much either. I'm kind of at a stand still until I get the harness.
I've been thinking should I cut and fold the quarters or not???
blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
Yes. It's a very simple job. My roomie, who doesn't really weld, got it done on his before I even noticed he'd started. Couple hours tops, and gives you a secret stash space to boot!
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Anyone got info on this cut and fold hiding space deal?
blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
Two different things.
Cut and fold - Gives you about 2" more room for tires.
* Remove flares.
* Cut roughly 1" slits in the fender up to just before the pinch seam. That's where the inner wheel well and the fender actually connect. The fender hangs about 1" past the pinch seam where to inner and outer connect. You don't want to cut past the pinch seam, as it is structural, and it'll rust like a motha****a if you cut past it. I normally do the slits about 1-2" apart on the curves, and every 4" on flat sections.
* Hammer the slitted parts in and up into the well. You've just gained about 2" of wheel well clearance.
* Primer and paint the shit out of it to prevent rust.
Rear quarter fold - Rear quarter (the part behind the rear wheels) gets thrashed when you land on it. It serves no purpose other than to collect water and catch on stuff. Cut it for higher clearance.
* Cut the entire quarter off about 3" or 4" up from the bottom.
* Cut out the remaining triangle on the front and back, all the way up to where the body line folds.
* Fold the inner side 90" up (so it's parallel to the ground). Clean off all the paint on the bottom side.
* Remove paint from the bottom inch of the outer section.
* Fold the outer side in to it's laying flat against the inner. Tack the crap out of it.
* Push the entire flat section up just high enough that you can get a few tacks in to the front and back.
* Prime, seam seal, and paint. You now have about 6-8" more ground clearance.
* Double bonus - you also have a 1" long section inside the body where you can hide stuff/store tools behind your panel. I usually just remove the plastic entirely from just below the window down, throw in some rubber mat, and use the area for storage, or build some FG sub boxes in on the passenger side (works well with a 10" square kicker).
I don't think I have any pictures of my cut/fold as it was done long ago, and I've since cut out the entire wheel well and rebuilt it to accept 39" tires.
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PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
One side done!
cleenrob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Converse TX
Sweet
cleenrob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Converse TX
This thing close to firing yet?
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Need to send in the harness still. I've been tossing around the idea of doing it myself, but I'm not really feeling it.
John D
NAXJA Member # 788
- Location
- Rockford, Mi
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Yea, but for $250 and I don't have to worry about ****ing it up. I'm going to send it out.
Finished up the other side today:
And mounted up the vapor canister
cleenrob
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Converse TX
nice ive got my motor torn apart with a coat of paint curing, im aiming to have it drop in-able this weekend.
clydefrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
Looking REALLY good.
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Thanks, Its getting done little by little.
Harness is being sent out tomorrow
So i sold my trans cooler fittings to a friend and USPS mis-Delivered the replacement fittings yesterday *facepalm
Thanks, Its getting done little by little.
Harness is being sent out tomorrow
So i sold my trans cooler fittings to a friend and USPS mis-Delivered the replacement fittings yesterday *facepalm
I did my own harness but it was a pain in the ass for sure. Hardest part of the swap by far for me anyway.
Lookin good man. Keep it up
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Replaced the trans filter today. Everything looked nice and clean!
PhotoJared
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Las Vegas, NV
Ordered:
Intake pipe, couplers, air filter, and clamps
Coolant silicon elbows, couplers, and clamps
Dirty dingo ECU mount
Intake pipe, couplers, air filter, and clamps
Coolant silicon elbows, couplers, and clamps
Dirty dingo ECU mount
clydefrog
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern California
Side note: The 4wd 4L60E uses a 'wet' junction in between the t-case and tranny (there is no output shaft seal, fluid just runs out and then back into the pan via a little hole under the output shaft). I learned out the hard way that with the advanced adapters kit that fluid from the trans will leak out the extra clocking holes on the adapter. I ended up temporarily sealing them up with ear plugs and RTV. I am going to weld the extra holes next time the adapter is out but i figured i would give you a heads up since you are the only person i know besides myself who used the AA kit for their swap. The NP231 is too thin at the adapter and the unused clocking holes will bridge the fluid and make it leak, major pain in the a**. Poor design.
