Project RAM assist

[Matt]

Thanks, that was exactly what I need for info. Now, with what you said about needing an orbital valve...what about this one? Or got any better suggestions? It looks like it might need a bigger pump!? The 3" ram looks like the ticket with what you described. now need to choose an orbital valve.


http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004020620565211&item=9-5365&catname=hydraulic

On my rock crawler I'm going full hydro but on my XJ it will just be an assist. The rock crawler is what I'm buying for now. Thanks VERY much for the info and advice. Danno

I would go with a bigger diplacement - with the 9.7 you are at 5 or 6 turns lock to lock

try to get into the teens 14, 17 or even the 23 cu"/rev would be my choice

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004020620565211&item=9-1801&catname=hydraulic

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004020620565211&item=9-1802&catname=hydraulic

Matt

PS looking back at the numbers either the 14 or 17 would be the best choice - the 23 would give 2.5 turns lock to lock

Make sure these are open center valves!!!! PS pump will be bypassing all the time with a closed center valve

Plus this guy: - (any charlynn 211-XXXX series should work ok - open center, non-load reactive)

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2004020620565211&item=9-1884&catname=hydraulic

 

[Matt]

Dazz - yes 70 is about the comfort level for both the steering and the whole rigs suspension and driveline speeds - I have driven it to work a few times 50 miles each way - so it is streetable just do so at your own risk!!!

Goatman - the easiest way to deal with excess travel is to either buy stroke limiters or make your own collar from heavy wall tube (.25 wall and thicker works fine)

With a welded cylinder you can still open it but you need a spanner designed for the cylinder - the stops should keep the cylinder from maxing out the knuckles travel - you do not want 2500 lbs of force (plus the multiplying leverage of the knuckle mounts) being applied repedatively against the ball joint or that thin ball joint collar area on the knuckle...

Try and get something with a sizable rod diameter since most folks end up bending the rod (even sideloading it will kill the seals and make it leak)

The way my mounts are done I have yet to hit that cylinder - and we wheel in tall bouldery stuff - often with running water or snow over top. Driving by brail is very common - did it yesterday at the May Creek crossing (2-3ft of water) here and bent the lip of one of my rims - I usually hit the diff cover and not the tie rod or ram...

PS my cylinder has a solid 1.125" rod - if you bend that and have not damaged the cylinder walls you are doing something wrong...

I like the clevis mounts as they are easier to work with and mount in double shear - the slop in the pin allows for all the missalignment you need (as long as the ram is mounted in the same plane as the verhicles caster angle)

Matt

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

Tap the casting as shown in the write ups and run the lines as short as possible - use steel JIC fittings except for where you enter the ram (I use an adapter that goes from NTP to JIC and is left in the ram when I pull a hose - eliminates leakage and the need to retape when pulling a line) EDIT: As for the box use straight o-ring boss fitting that convert to JIC - the o-ring will seal (not the threads) preventing excessive splitting pressure from a tapered thread cut into a casting that was not designed to be drilled and tapped in that location...

Lines should be a good power steering hose 100r5 rated (-6 JIC / 3/8" is fine) - reusable fittings are good so you can field repair hoses and just carry a few feet of extra line and some loose fittings to fix just about anything...

About how much did your hoses run with all the fittings and all?

Reusable fittings, Ill see what I can find.

 

[Matt]

About how much did your hoses run with all the fittings and all?

Reusable fittings, Ill see what I can find.

Total cost on the fittings was about 30$ and the hose plus reusable ends (6) was about 70$

fittings from - http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/

hoses from - http://www.pscpowersteer.com/

Here is the fittings and hose page:

http://www.pscpowersteer.com/Perfor...oad/miscellaneous_off_road_components_PSC.cfm

HTH

Matt - I spent a total of 220$ for everything - orbital, bracketry, hoses, fttings, fluid - some stuff was carry over from my assist sytem but most was new - (ram, home built reservior, cooler, and filter were reused...)

 

[BrettM]

where'd you get the orbital!?

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

Total cost on the fittings was about 30$ and the hose plus reusable ends (6) was about 70$

fittings from - http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/

hoses from - http://www.pscpowersteer.com/

Here is the fittings and hose page:

http://www.pscpowersteer.com/Perfor...oad/miscellaneous_off_road_components_PSC.cfm

Thats a tough call.

Get reusable fittings, or just get the generic hydrolic lines from west texas off road. For $45 They give you two 3ft lines with fittings. So even If I replace them both once, its cheeper then getting the reusable fittings and hoses.

The reusable fittings would be handy but due to cost I think Ill stick with the pre fabbed ones.

 

[Matt]

where'd you get the orbital!?

Ebay... Just look up the part numbers on Eaton's web site and pick your battles - I won't go much over 100$

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

I got the Surplus center ram, 1.5in bore, 8in stroke, 3/4in shaft, with 3/8in NPT fitttings and accepts 3/4in bolts at each end. And I got my $45 3ft long hydraulic lines and $48 seal/rebuild kit from west texas off road.

Now I just need to get to work. Well Im "AT WORK" but not at work on my steering if you know what I mean.

 

[Big Red]

Any more info on the Project RAM Assist? I'm looking to do this mod too on my xj with my hp44 with 35 or 37" tires.

 

[Matt]

check this thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=348166&posted=1#post348166