Project older and wiser

XJ_Vikings

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Simsbury, CT
So a little background to start.

Bought my jeep stock back in 2002 when i was 16, about 55k on it. After some casual wheeling I decided to throw on 30x9.50 BFG AT and then a year later decided to lift (I know, i was young and stupid). Didn't do any research on the lift, ended up with a garbage trailmaster, drop brackets, add a leaf etc. It still pains me to think about it.

Didnt do too much on it except relocate the solenoid to the engine compartment and relocate the master on/off to the dash. Pretty happy with it however the wire was quite expensive. I upped the diameter to account for the increased resistance.
stephen045.jpg

stephen046.jpg




I started planning and researching everything I wanted to do back in 2006. However, a deployment and school made things go slowly. Before I left I decided to commit and take her off the road, buy a DD and start my work when i got back.

Heres the 2009 Honda i picked up last year
stephen048-1.jpg



The jeep in its current state
stephen047.jpg


Its been sitting in my garage for a couple years now. Only issues were a dead battery and a broken hood release.

Did some work on it today (first time in 3 years) and replaced the battery with an optima yellow top, and started the hood pin install.
stephen053.jpg





Ive had a 44 sitting in my basement for about 4 years now, I did all the cleanup work a few years back, just been waiting to take it to CT Axle to finish it up, that's happening next week finally. The plan now is to get as much done for the rebirth as possible without immobilizing her. I don't want to deal with the Honda this winter so I'm getting the heep back in shape for a DD, then starting to throw everything on in the spring. Hopefully this thread keeps me motivated.
stephen054.jpg



Heres what ive come up with in my years of research (while the other guys in Iraq were using their computer time to talk to their girlfriends, I was on NAXJA)....

Alcan rear leafs
Bilstein shocks
woody shaft
TnT 5.5 arms
not sure how much im going to put into the 30
4.56 gears, aussie in 44
not sure on tires yet... still

not at all worthy of advanced fab yet, being that it is neither advanced or fabricated, but itll be there in due time

the whole idea behind this is to use my age, wisdom, and engineering degree to do it the way i should have the first time.
 
Last edited:
Hey you got to start some where.

and trust me we have all seen people do MUCH dumber things with there XJs. so dont kick your self too hard.

good luck.
 
Finished up the hood pin install on Sunday. Went smoothly, only needed 400 Dremel cut wheels and grind stones. I'm gonna weld the top nut on to gain some elevation on the pins, right now its tighter then I would like.

DSC01612.jpg



I'm debating switching out the strap style yoke to a u-bolt style, not sure if its necessary though.

On the agenda now is to do all the little things to bring it back to life after 2 years of sitting in a garage. The hoses and serp belt look good, but aside from greasing the joints and changing the oil I'm not sure how far I have to go. Next weekend I'm gonna ditch the lights, clean up the wiring in the engine bay and hopefully finish up my rear bumper, pics of that to come later.

Any suggestions for things I should look for and fluids I should swap after a 2 year hiatus? As I said before I'll certainly do oil, coolant, and grease the joints.
 
I'd flush the brakes as well, they are supposed to be done every 2 years and no one ever does. right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front, keep the reservoir full and you're done! Speed bleeders (or a power bleeder) help.

Looks nice so far! :patriot:
 
I'd flush the brakes as well, they are supposed to be done every 2 years and no one ever does. right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front, keep the reservoir full and you're done! Speed bleeders (or a power bleeder) help.

Looks nice so far! :patriot:
Agree, and if you live in a humid environment I would do it annually.
 
A little update:

Finished up swapping out all the fluids, got the vehicle registered and just passed emissions.

I'm a little surprised at how nicely it drives after sitting in a garage for 2 years.

The next thing to work on is finishing up the bumper I started before I was deployed. No pictures with me, but its basically L2x2x1/4 mounted inside the framerails recessed into a 3x4x1/4 rectangular tube. Ive got all that work done, just need to weld on the ballistic fab shackle mounts to the sides of the L2x2x1/4's and then weld those to the regtangular tube.

Heres a rough sketch

bumpermicrostation-001.jpg




I plan on running the 2" tube from my bumper over the front wheel wells, connecting it to my sliders, over the rear wheel wells then connecting to the bumper to give some rear 1/4 protection.
 
just a thought in regards to the pic above.
you may think about angling the outers (from the frame mounts out, or where they angle upward at the ends), so they follow the line of the hatch a bit.
I think you'll like the look of it better than straight across the way the diagram has it.
 
so, got some work done today

Just picked up the axle from CT Axle, very happy with the results. He added some 3" DOM to the rubi retaining plates and lathed it down until it kept good pressure on the bearing and seal.

so.....

when I first picked it up:
44-1.jpg


And now:
DSC01889.jpg



I also finally got to the 10ga wiring harness for my headlights.
DSC01894.jpg


Im just waiting on my cibies in the mail from Dan Stern, but they just need to be plugged in.

The next thing to do is replace the front left hub and finish the bumper before winter.
 
It looks like the build date of this spring is gonna be pushed back a year and a half or so. Just got word that I'll be deploying to Afghanistan this spring. Good news is, I'll have copious amounts of taxpayer money when I return, so there shouldn't be any financial issues with ordering everything at once and getting this thing done finally.

As for now, I need to finish up the bumper before winter comes and install my Novak shifter.
 
just a thought in regards to the pic above.
you may think about angling the outers (from the frame mounts out, or where they angle upward at the ends), so they follow the line of the hatch a bit.
I think you'll like the look of it better than straight across the way the diagram has it.

Thats the plan now. I mocked it up after hearing this and I agree
 
Thats the plan now. I mocked it up after hearing this and I agree

only know because I had to change mine.

good work so far.

where abouts ya heading? I spent 1/2 year in Kabul (aug-feb 2003) and 1/2 year in Kandahar (aug-feb 2005)
stay safe, have some fun and tell any Canadians Engineers you see "engineers suck" if any understand and smile, tell them some prick told you to say it.
 
Last edited:
Not sure where were headed, probably wont find out until about 2 weeks out. I doubt well be out of any base, sounds like were gonna be a mobile company with our own A/O. But, as they say, nothing is certain until its already happened.
 
So a little design issue I wanted some advice on.

Originally, the bumper was going to extend to the edge of the rear 1/4 panels and I was gonna go with the typical 2x4 rectangular tube underneath the cut 1/4's. After reconsidering, Ive decided to extend the rear bumper 2" past the edge of the rear 1/4's to link up with some 2" tube extending all the way from the front bumper, over the wheel wells, integrated with my sliders, to the rear bumper.

Currently I'm a hair over 2" short on each side of the bumper. My options are to scrap this piece, get another 70" 4x3 rectangular tubing from the shop down the road for $40...

or

get a couple 2" pieces of 4x3 and weld them onto the end of my current piece. It was a bitch to recess the L2x2x1/4 into the bumper, but I'd rather take the time now to do it right if the welded end pieces will either look like shit or not be as structurally sound.

Here are some pictures of what I was thinking. Keep in mind that i still have to make some cuts in the bumper to fit the shackle tabs as illustrated in the CAD drawing above.


What I currently have mocked up
DSC01899.jpg


The extra material I would need to link the 2" DOM in
DSC01900.jpg


The start of the tubing I would link all the way to the rear
DSC01901-1.jpg



I'm fairly confident that the welded material would be strong enough, granted its not involved in towing but merely supporting the DOM 1/4 guard, but I don't want to get lazy if I'm gonna regret it in the end.

Ideas?
 
Just finished up my novak installation. I removed the shift knob from my 5 spd shifter for the 4wd shifter. Now I obviously need to replace the other knob...

so, decisions decisions

A few that I am considering

http://www.quadratec.com/products/96117_702.htm

http://www.quadratec.com/products/96117_105.htm

leaning towards the grenade... thoughts?


Next mini project is welding the bumper up. Gonna cut out the recessed holes to fit the 2" shackle mounts and weld it up later this week. Last thing I need to get done before winter.
 
i would say the rock shifter. reason being is that grenade isnt going to be very comfortable and you might get sick of it faster. also, in my head the grenade looks sloppier.
 
Im thinking the same thing. I think im gonna replace both shift knobs, as the chrome skill isnt nearly as cool as it was when I was 16. Maybe ill go with the rock for my 5spd and the grenade for the 4wd.

i just cant get over the cool factor of the grenade



cutting the rest of the bumper tomorrow and welding it up thursday.
 
Im thinking the same thing. I think im gonna replace both shift knobs, as the chrome skill isnt nearly as cool as it was when I was 16. Maybe ill go with the rock for my 5spd and the grenade for the 4wd.

i just cant get over the cool factor of the grenade



cutting the rest of the bumper tomorrow and welding it up thursday.
what did you decide on the bumper end caps, 1/4 pannel guard tie in? i would suggest cuting an angle section and welding the 2 inch ext on, make it look how ever you want it to, take a little extra time, you are not limeted to the shape of your metal, cut, shape and weld
 
Back
Top