Just trying to help here. I have alot of experience doing gears and I stand by my assessment that your pinion is too deep.i don't know about that.. .010 out from behind the bearing would put the contact pattern WAY up off the top landing of the gear tooth.
maybe you are confused? here is another pic: notice sexy contact pattern centered between the root & top landing of the gear teeth
gears should be set up centered between root & top landing of gear tooth slightly on the tight & deep side (+/- .002 or so)so when the carrier tries to roll out under load it moves contact pattern right into the sweet spot.
id say running 10 thou less than what I have now is what would lead to 'premature ring & pinion failure'.
Randy Lyman, CEO Randy's Ring & Pinion puts it nicely.
"The biggest myth I continually encounter has to do with contact patterns for setting pinion depth. Although many disagree, I have found that the method used by General Motors, Dana Spicer, Richmond Gear, the Gleason Gear Company, and many others works best. The method that they use involves centering the contact pattern from root to top land and not from heel to toe."
I made a tool with a coupler nut and a big washer. Cut the nut in half longways, cut the washer and use it to go under the bearing. There is space under there. Get some allthread, put a socket over the coupler nut, thread the allread into the whole thing, then use a big socket, a 44 spindle nut socket works, and use a nut the pull it all out. Ill grab a pic of the tool if i can find it. Basically you make a home brew version of the dealer tool.hmm .. so i'm trying to figure out how to remove the np231 front output shaft rear bearing. it is a torrington-style (needle) bearing that sits in a sealed recess in the back half of the case. there is maybe .125 gap between the back of the bearing and the case. FSM has an illustration of a puller, but i've never seen one that would be able to fit into such a tiny gap. my only bright idea i have right now is pry the needles out and then collapse the race with a punch... has anyone done one of these ?
its the one in the upper part of this pic
The wear pattern should wear off the compound as close to the center between the bottom of the groove (root or flank)and the top edge of the tooth (top land) as possible. In the pic you posted you can see that the tooth has worn off the compound only at the bottom of the tooth face. I suggested .010 because when I have done gears and had them that deep before, .010 got me very close and I think it will put you closer to an ideal pattern. I wasn't suggesting that it would make it perfect. A perfect pattern will have a very thin line of compound along the top edge of the tooth face. If you'd like, I can PM you some pictures of good gear patterns to use as a guide. If you PM me I will give you my cell # if you would like to talk with me about it, sometimes it is easier to get my point across verbally.
I know this has been alot of work for you and the pattern is much better but I recommend trying .003" less shim for best gear life. The pattern is still just slightly deep. They will probably be fine like they are but could get noisy. Glad you got it done, it sure is a lot of work. :cheers:I went ahead and re-adjusted my ring & pinion today.
Before specs: (pattern already shown)
Depth: .013"
Preload: .041" shim, 12 in/lbs
Backlash: .010"-.011"
AFTER specs (pics shown below, these are after I drove the 2 initial break-in periods, 4-range low traction condition, let them cool the second time and went to shop around the corner to check out my t-case in, drove home and then re-shimmed.)
Depth: .003"
Preload: .031" 10 in/lbs
Backlash: .012"-.013" all the way around
You'll get the best results with .006-.008" backlash.
