Project Geosynchronous Orbit

i'd lower the anti squat and effectively extend your x axis instant center and lower your roll axis angle. You don't want any oversteer IMO, it makes it unstable. Better to have some understeer, i anything. Link lengths look much better. Also, your axle end links will likely be closer to 4.5" on the x axis. Lower your z axis number on the upper link at the axle end as well. Mine is closer to 26" with a bigger housing so it's doable.
 
here's mine. not perfect either, but it works.

but really, if either of us knew wtf we were doing, we'd just run short arms and better shocks, like bilstien 5150's or something. This geometry shit is really just a waste of time.
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one thing i forgot to mention, if you're planning on any sort of wheel travel, mount your lower link chassis mounts inboard a decent amount. the farther outboard that you have them, the more rear steer you'll get when articulated, which sucks in most cases.
 
How else would it end up upside down so often?

(Has nothing to do with the "on fire" part)
 
Is your center of gravity really at 30" or was that a guess?

I ballparked it. Forgot to measure it while I was underthere. Realistically it's probably closer to what Vanimal posted. My belly is 21" off the ground and I'm guessing the top of the bellhousing is about 16-17" above that.

he has a massive head, which raises his center of gravity considerably.

Shit I forgot to take that into account. Better add 12+" to that.
 
I'll double check the bellhousing height tomorrow night.

This would be with the lower links mounted to the bottom of the frame (brought uppers down to keep the same vert sep), upper shortened a bit to keep the AS from changing too much through travel.

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i would triangulate the lowers. Like i said, the more triangluation you have, the less rear steer you'll get. you don't want your rear end to start walking off line the second you're articulated. I'd probably add a little antisquat too.
 
I'll take some more measurements tomorrow night.

My rear axle is fairly far back compared to a cherokee, so it's not as simple as making another crossmember since the driveshaft will contact it.

I'll double check though. I'd love to be able to triangulate them some more.
 
I'll take some more measurements tomorrow night.

My rear axle is fairly far back compared to a cherokee, so it's not as simple as making another crossmember since the driveshaft will contact it.

I'll double check though. I'd love to be able to triangulate them some more.

I built my crossmember to go up through the floor and over the driveshaft instead of under it. I know yours will be different since you're working with a bed instead of the cab, but should still be doable. Gave me plenty of surface area to mount both my upper and lower link brackets, plus stiffened the chassis a bit. I put 3x3" tubing in the frame rails, cut the floor out, dropped the crossmember in from the top, welded the bottom plates in after so that it's attached to 3 sides of the frame rail. Then patched the floor back up. The upper link brackets were welded to the area where the "p" is drawn in the second pic, so they're angled in towards the center of the rear axle. The lower link brackets were welded to the bottom plate as far inboard as i could fit them.

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The more time I spend staring and wanting to redo everything, the more I want to just start over.

With a tube chassis.

I think I've finally reached that point.

Figures that would happen when I'm a week from closing on a house :laugh:
 
The more time I spend staring and wanting to redo everything, the more I want to just start over.

With a tube chassis.

I think I've finally reached that point.

Figures that would happen when I'm a week from closing on a house :laugh:
get shit where it fits and FIRI(within reason), this aint NASCAR or F1
 
get shit where it fits and FIRI(within reason), this aint NASCAR or F1

3/4" makes a pretty big difference in handling. If he intends to compete, i'd spend a little time on it to get it working well. When i first linked the rear, i just put stuff where it fit, and it was pretty effing sketchy, even on the street.
 
No chance you can mount the uppers to a crossmember across the top of the frame rails?

As I recall there is a significant amount of space between the frame rails and the bottom of the bed near the front. Like 3-4" significant.
 
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