MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Frame plated with 1/8" and used some 1.5 x .120 box tubing. Have an artec mount hence the 8 bolt holes.
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Project Geosynchronous Orbit
- Thread starter MoparManiac
- Start date
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Tell me about it :laugh:
I knocked out most of the plumbing and mounted the walbro pump and fragola filter tonight.
Should be able to finish it all out tomorrow night. Just need to paint everything, remount the rear brakeline, and run the fuel cell vent. Just going to do the FATS (3 sides and down) philosophy.
I knocked out most of the plumbing and mounted the walbro pump and fragola filter tonight.
Should be able to finish it all out tomorrow night. Just need to paint everything, remount the rear brakeline, and run the fuel cell vent. Just going to do the FATS (3 sides and down) philosophy.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Fuel cell and plumbing all done. Seems to be working. I have fuel pressure.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
It looks closer than it is.
chedisme
NAXJA Member
- Location
- middletown, NY
Dude im in that pic! With the legend The MoparManiac!! I am sooo cooolll!!!!
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Other way around I'm in the pic with the legendary Stefan Stiff Arm!!!
- Location
- Aberdeen, MD
is that the MJ flopped and on fire again?
love it
love it
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
I don't know what I'm doing. Someone tell me if this looks stupid.
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Not a huge fan of how long the links are. I could shorten them up and lose the triangulation on the lowers (they'd have to go underneath the frame at that point). Not sure what's better. I can take some measurements for that setup tomorrow.
Exxon Valdez Jeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temple TX
My lower links are 40-something" long and even with 3/8" wall, it didnt take me too long to put a nice curve in them bouncing off rocks.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Take your numbers and math and junk and get the f*** outta here!! Just toss links in places and call it good.
vetteboy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- morganville, nj
Upper links need more horizontal separation at the frame side (more triangulation). You will probably need to do that by making them shorter, no there's nothing wrong with that, especially with your driveshaft length. Take a foot out of them, leave the vertical separation the same between the uppers/lowers, and cycle the bump/droop to check the anti-squat change, and make sure it doesn't do anything wonky (it shouldn't). Pinion will twist down at droop but anti-squat will likely go down at droop and increase at bump; these are both fine. The rear roll axis isn't going to get any better but roll understeer is usually a compromise of having low-ish anti-squat and is way better than roll oversteer at speed.
Links only function in tension & compression. It's all trig. Those diagonal links have to laterally locate the axle so your lateral component of force comes from the sine of the angle of separation. With minimal angle you wind up with a much higher force vector in the link and that all goes into loading the heims which will wear them out much faster, and cause the axle to move side-to-side a lot more when they do start to wear. One thing that can help in that department is to use the Ruffstuff upper mount (or something like it), which is what I did:
This gets you a few benefits; one, you can space the joints closer together because you don't have to worry about fitting a nut/washer/wrench/etc in the space in between which helps you to maximize the triangulation, and two, you're loading the ball against the solid part of the heim body instead of trying to push the ball out the side of it so in theory you should get a longer life out of the joint.
Overall I'd probably want to shorten everything up...what I'd probably do would be to look at your breakover angle from the side and if you do have to put the links under the frame, keep the mounts within that boundary so they're not your ultimate limiting factor.
Links only function in tension & compression. It's all trig. Those diagonal links have to laterally locate the axle so your lateral component of force comes from the sine of the angle of separation. With minimal angle you wind up with a much higher force vector in the link and that all goes into loading the heims which will wear them out much faster, and cause the axle to move side-to-side a lot more when they do start to wear. One thing that can help in that department is to use the Ruffstuff upper mount (or something like it), which is what I did:
This gets you a few benefits; one, you can space the joints closer together because you don't have to worry about fitting a nut/washer/wrench/etc in the space in between which helps you to maximize the triangulation, and two, you're loading the ball against the solid part of the heim body instead of trying to push the ball out the side of it so in theory you should get a longer life out of the joint.
Overall I'd probably want to shorten everything up...what I'd probably do would be to look at your breakover angle from the side and if you do have to put the links under the frame, keep the mounts within that boundary so they're not your ultimate limiting factor.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
That one post has more knowledge then this entire thread
COjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs
Looks like Professor Vetteboy schooled us all. :dunno:
MoparManiac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Amherst, NH
Thanks for the help Chris.
Here's a revised version. AS jumps up to around 140% on full droop, and 54% on full bump. Kind of backwards of how you stated it? Positive rollsteer this time.
Here's a revised version. AS jumps up to around 140% on full droop, and 54% on full bump. Kind of backwards of how you stated it? Positive rollsteer this time.
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