Project Geosynchronous Orbit

[cmelo]

I fear your flanges are not thick enough.

 

[RCman]

So, how's it sound? :laugh3:
Looks good.

The driver's side downpipe gets about 1/2" from the diff with it at full bump.

Having "been there done that", this would concern me. Is that super full bump? :laugh: As in, max compression taken into account of whatever bumpstop your using now and well as the engine mounts?
Might be wise to "massage" another 1/2" or even 3/4" in that tube right now rather than having a cracked header when the axle comes in contact with it after landing from 4' in the air. That little bit of dent in the tube I can't imagine will effect the exhaust flow enough to matter (and it's not like you've got a perfectly matched exhaust anyway).

 

[MoparManiac]

So, how's it sound? :laugh3:
Looks good.

Having "been there done that", this would concern me. Is that super full bump? :laugh: As in, max compression taken into account of whatever bumpstop your using now and well as the engine mounts?
Might be wise to "massage" another 1/2" or even 3/4" in that tube right now rather than having a cracked header when the axle comes in contact with it after landing from 4' in the air. That little bit of dent in the tube I can't imagine will effect the exhaust flow enough to matter (and it's not like you've got a perfectly matched exhaust anyway).

Doesn't concern me but I know what happened to yours Your inner fender let go, which I think was the majority of your issue.

I have the front end of the jeep being held up by the bumpstops right now. Bumpstops I don't plan on using anymore (the Kias...they're too soft). I'm going to throw the stock XJ ones back in which are harder and longer.

There also isn't 1/2" of material between the sleeve in the bushing and the outer DOM shell for the motor mounts. So I'm not sure how the engine would be able to drop down any further.

It was basically a game of keep it far enough away from the pan to reduce heating up the oil, but far enough above the axle to keep from smushing it on hard landings.

 

[MoparManiac]

I haven't posted an update in awhile, just didn't feel like taking pictures. But I snapped some tonight.

Finished welding the doubler adapter. The two flat 1/2" plates warped just a tad (went a little overboard with my 211 on full blast :laugh, but I don't think it will be an issue. Everything bolts up just fine, and fits tight. Nothing actually moved, so I don't think the shaft will be offcenter. If that all makes sense :laugh:.

I also got my 32-spline NP205 flanges in from High Angle Driveline. They look pimp and should add mega bling points. I painted them for bonus points.

I had finished up the exhaust over the weekend, and painted it with High-Temp Rustoleum. We'll see how that lasts.

You can also see the 2x2x.250" crossbars all painted as well.

Countersunk, flapped smooth, and painted my big dumb bellypan.

Also repainted my traction bar, as well as the rear crossmember and the rear 205 mount. The plate/tabs that bolt onto the rear of the 205 I finished welded and painted too, just forgot to snap a pic.

 

[MoparManiac]

I also mocked up my 31x19" dual pass Griffin radiator to roughly figure out where to put it. I don't want it too low (no airflow) but I also don't want it to completely block my view. I'm thinking of angling the top down so the radiator is "covered" by the tube if that makes sense.

 

[vetteboy]

I also got my 32-spline NP205 flanges in from High Angle Driveline. They look pimp and should add mega bling points. I painted them for bonus points.

Painted flange mating surfaces

 

[ktm racer 419]

where else are you going to get a picture of beer that smells liks a dead skunk, 32 spline flanges, and a frisbee?

 

[XJLI]

Drop the radiator in more.. The last thing you want is to roll and XXXX your rad up and end your day when you probably could have just flipped it back over and kept wheeling.

 

[foxwar71]

No radiator. If you drive fast enough, it'll be air cooled. Plus, its cold in the high atmosphere.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

Muffler looks cool, everything else is stupid though

 

[MoparManiac]

Painted flange mating surfaces

Was that a bad idea?

I painted the flange at the axle side and I didn't have an issue with it...?

I understand the pilot is a slip fit or whatever, but it still goes on nice.

where else are you going to get a picture of beer that smells liks a dead skunk, 32 spline flanges, and a frisbee?

:laugh:

Drop the radiator in more.. The last thing you want is to roll and XXXX your rad up and end your day when you probably could have just flipped it back over and kept wheeling.

Yeah that's why I said I was going to angle the top down. Was just hard to do with what I had laying around haha.

I was really asking how height placement. Like if I should bring it up higher, or if having it where it was is fine too. The top of the radiator is well above the top of the engine at this point.

No radiator. If you drive fast enough, it'll be air cooled. Plus, its cold in the high atmosphere.

Truth.

Muffler looks cool, everything else is stupid though

Did you use the same paint I did?

That shit SUCKED to get off.

 

[vetteboy]

Was that a bad idea?

I painted the flange at the axle side and I didn't have an issue with it...?

I understand the pilot is a slip fit or whatever, but it still goes on nice.

[analengineer]

Same idea as not painting the mounting surface between a knuckle and high steer arm (there's a reason they take the time to keep those surfaces raw on Reid knuckles rather than paint the whole thing). Motion is transferred by friction between the two surfaces generated by clamping force from the bolts; technically the bolts should only ever be loaded in tension, not shear. If you're clamping a layer of paint between those surfaces your friction isn't gonna be as effective.

Or FIRI and see if it still works with 3x the horsepower/torque as before.

[/analengineer]

 

[MoparManiac]

FIRI is the name of the game

I actually looked underneath one of my father's friend's brand new Dodge 5500.

The rear output on the t-case (NV271) was actually serrated so the two would interlock that way.

Was pretty cool.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

Was that a bad idea?

I painted the flange at the axle side and I didn't have an issue with it...?

I understand the pilot is a slip fit or whatever, but it still goes on nice.



:laugh:



Yeah that's why I said I was going to angle the top down. Was just hard to do with what I had laying around haha.

I was really asking how height placement. Like if I should bring it up higher, or if having it where it was is fine too. The top of the radiator is well above the top of the engine at this point.



Truth.



Did you use the same paint I did?

That shit SUCKED to get off.

Was either that or duplicolor, I think I got it from autozone, I just painted all the welded areas

 

[MDXJ]

Can u put the rad flat in the bed with the fans pushing the air threw the bed floor

 

[MoparManiac]

Probably could, but then the engine is the highest point in the cooling system.

Could probably be solved with a water neck fill at the thermostat housing though.

 

[ktm racer 419]

i would think flat in the bed with a hole in the floor will make it nice and easy to get caked up with mud.

that and people won't be able to see your bling radiator.

 

[MoparManiac]

I'm probably going to drop it down a bit lower, and keep the same tilt it has in it now.

I won't be doing any ultra 4 type shit, so I don't think airflow will be a problem.

I also want to be able to access my fuel cell and air tank easily.

 

[MoparManiac]

^ So I didn't follow that plan at all :laugh:

I actually brought it up higher and tilter forward even farther. The only drawback to this will be bleeding it, since the upper radiator hose will be higher than the filler neck. But I'll just jack up one side of the MJ to compensate when filling it. NBD I hope.

Started on the front plumbing as well. 1.5" exhaust tubing. Yes I also hate that U-bend right after the waterpump, but I don't have a choice.

I also stopped by my uncles today to wrap up the 440.

Turns out something isn't right, since there's too much play in the factory rocker setup. Since Mopars used a fixed rocker setup, you can't adjust lash (actually nice) but either the valves aren't in the seats all the way (doubtful), pushrods too short (also doubtful), or lifters aren't right (leaning towards this). Either way, I might end up getting adjustable roller rockers.

Anyway, here's the finished result of the porting job my uncle did. Came out amazing.

 

[MoparManiac]

Oh, forgot to mention, I do plan on getting flanges for the bottom tube spanning the bed.

This will allow me to unbolt the bottom radiator mount and pull/install the radiator.