foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
soon as i get the brackets mocked up, i gotta throw the knuckles back on. gotta check clearences with the gussets and plating-to-be.
Project Downward Spiral
- Thread starter RCman
- Start date
soon as i get the brackets mocked up, i gotta throw the knuckles back on. gotta check clearences with the gussets and plating-to-be.
Begster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cape Cod/Boston, Mass
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Ok, so now that the battery situation is kinda figured out (minus the box). I am looking at ways to fill my coilovers. I can get my hands on a tank and regulator locally (or maybe even borrow one) so that isn't an problem.
After reading this thread on the PBB and talking with a few people I have come down to these two options:
1) ORI Single Fill Adapter. $160 to my door.
2) Poly's setup with fill adapter and hose, $137.81 to my door.
I'm leaning towards the ORI setup. The ~$22 isn't the end of the world and it seems like it would be easier with the hose attaching to coilover rather than the hole gauge assembly.
To bad nobody local to me (that I know of) has a setup.
After reading this thread on the PBB and talking with a few people I have come down to these two options:
1) ORI Single Fill Adapter. $160 to my door.
2) Poly's setup with fill adapter and hose, $137.81 to my door.
I'm leaning towards the ORI setup. The ~$22 isn't the end of the world and it seems like it would be easier with the hose attaching to coilover rather than the hole gauge assembly.
To bad nobody local to me (that I know of) has a setup.
Dundy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taunton, MA
Try getting in touch with Lucas Murphy. He'll probably have something.
- Location
- Lafayette, CA
Get the nitrogen at a local place. My friend bought a 5 lbs tank for around $80 at a welding supply place and then he either got the regulator/hose from Poly, or just used what he had. Either way, way less than those kits.
Keep us updated on those batteries. I might be following suit since I have had bad luck with Optimas and I dont understand paying ~$150 for a sealed battery box when I can pay $160 for a new battery and not have to worry about a sealed box failing and possible killing me.
Neither of those kits have N2 or the regulator. I've got someone I can borrow a tank from so that isn't the big deal. The issue is getting the N2 from the regulator into the shock. That's where those kits come into play.
Yeah, I will. I wish I had the cash to do both the sealed battery and the fancy box.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Hey, look at all those updates from this weekend........
5spd_xj
<<the good ol days
- Location
- Dracut, MA
I know that at some point last night he was working on his knuckles. I have no idea at what time though, and I'm pretty impressed with myself for remembering that much :gee:
- Location
- Lobster in Lake Tahoe
Did he have power all weekend? Cause we didn't...
:moon:
Yup, made some ok progress on those and that is about it. They should be finished up tonight. I'm hoping to get a bunch more done this week.
We only lost our power for a few minutes. Angel got Melissa's text about you guys running off the generator. Welcome to New England.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
looks like i have to randomly show up now.......
Psssh... I'm not afraid (just call first).
Anyway, the pass' knuckle is done minus cleaning a little bit of leftover sand off (it cooled in a 5gal pail of sand) and hitting a couple spots with a flap wheel. The driver's side needs a couple peices tacked into place and it's ready to get baked (kitchen oven, 250 degrees for 2 hours to get the knuckle evenly heated) and then welded. I will get to that tonight.
On thing I will say is I now understand why everyone just sucks it up and buys Dedenbear/Crane/Solid knuckles. Plating them is a ton of work. I'm not sure I'd do it again, if I did I sure wouldn't use the 1/4" I did with only a MAPP setup.
foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
MAPP gas FTL. even with my he-man strength and BFH, im not looking forward to plating my knuckles. If im gunna go thru all that effort, i might as well add a keyway/5th stud into the mix with the bridgeport.....
Buy me an Oxy/Acetylene setup then. MAPP is all I've got for now. It worked, but slowly.
I looked into adding a key into the top of mine. I believe it was even discussed in this thread somewhere. There isn't much surface area to cut a slot to a traditional separate keyway and key that will yield much strength. I think Crane/Solid have the right idea when it comes to the slot, it needs to be part of the knuckle. I suppose it could be part of the arm, but that would reduced strength in the top of the knuckle and add to an area already prone to cracks.
I don't foresee any issues with mine (knock on wood). Plenty of people run high steer arms with stock style configuration and have no problems. If I do, I'll change the setup with larger bolts and/or keys.
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
I bought a 10lb N2 tank, a N2 regulator, and went to a local hydraulic shop and had a hose made that handles 3000? psi, with a 'tire fill' adapter...
I just dial the regulator to whatever pressure I want, push the adapter on the shcrader valve, hold it there for a little bit till the pressures equalize, then take it off... I use this method for my airshocks, where the pressure acutally matters.
For coilovers, you dont really need a specific pressure - just enough to keep the oil from cavitating - I think Fox even says something like "Charge it to 150lbs - if you dont get shock fade, its good. if you get shock fade, add pressure"
No need to buy an expensive filling adapter IMO.
I know you're running 8 lug, and 16.5" wheels, but make sure your brakes still fit. After plating my knuckles, my 1/2 ton brake conversion didnt fit anymore, and I had to grind off a ton of 1/4" material.
I added material to the front of the knuckle add the 5th stud. Havnet drilled / tapped the hole yet, but the material is there....
some notes and semi-but-not-really relevant pictures here:
http://www.rockhardxj.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2713&start=150
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Funny you mentioned that, I was talking to the local welder supply today about regulators and he mentioned the same thing. I just wasn't sure that the tank regulator would be accurate enough. SAW recommends 200psi which I could dial that in on the tank regulator just fine.
I'll have to see what I can find for a schrader fill adapter and hose. What did that hose run you?
You are right, while that fancy setup would be nice, I've got better things to spend the money on if I don't need it.
That was one of those things that I was sure to double check before I burned everything home. I had everything very lightly tacked into place before pre-heating and welding so I used that to make sure the bracket for the caliper still fit. It does by the ever so smallest bit, it does. I haven't checked the caliper fit yet though. I guess I should before I weld the pass side all up as well.
I probably should have added provisions in my arms for a 5th hole when I made them, but oh well. Hindsight is 20/20 right?
Edit: That axle of your's sure is perdy.
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foxwar71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Foxboro, MA
Thats my idea, there just isnt enough room on the top of a stock knuckle. ive got a bunch of 3/4" thick plate laying around so i wanna weld that to the front of the knuckle above where the stock steering arm is. then ill use the bridgeport to mill it down and have myself a 1/2" keyway in front of the 4 holes. Something like great lakes offroad's piece for adding a 5th bolt:
OK, back to question/opinion asking.
Now that the knuckles are done (pictures later) I'm moving onto the belly pan and rocker skins. I'll be placing an order for a 4'x8' sheet of UHMW very soon, tomorrow maybe.
I've got some prices and 3/8" is significantly cheaper than 1/2"
Either way it'll get backed up with 14 or 11 gauge steel just like I did for the rockers.
So, general thought on 3/8" vs 1/2" is? I'm leaning toward the 3/8" for cost reasons.
Now that the knuckles are done (pictures later) I'm moving onto the belly pan and rocker skins. I'll be placing an order for a 4'x8' sheet of UHMW very soon, tomorrow maybe.
I've got some prices and 3/8" is significantly cheaper than 1/2"
Either way it'll get backed up with 14 or 11 gauge steel just like I did for the rockers.
So, general thought on 3/8" vs 1/2" is? I'm leaning toward the 3/8" for cost reasons.
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