Project Downward Spiral

[RCman]

I was making good headway today until it came to an abrupt halt when my best friend had a heart attack. :bawl:

R.I.P. Jasper. You will be greatly missed.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

im sorry to hear about Jasper Bill, RIP

 

[MoparManiac]

Sorry to hear man...Jasper was awesome and so full of energy

I'll always remember him barking our ears off whenever I came over! haha.

 

[bcmaxx]

Its more than just a dog when you have one, its your buddy ,your best friend, someone to talk to, someone to smile stupidly at you, someone who doesnt mind just layin round when you play, sorry for your loss. It saddens me to even think of the day I will not be with my bud. Chin up

 

[TomMcD]

Been following the thread for a long while. I think those pictures are the best in this thread.

I am sorry for your loss and thank you for sharing.

 

[5spd_xj]

Sorry to hear man...Jasper was awesome and so full of energy

I'll always remember him barking our ears off whenever I came over! haha.

x2, he was definitely a talkative one heh. Sorry to hear about that man, he really was a good dog

 

[asp]

sorry to hear about Jasper

 

[XJ_ranger]

Aside from that I got some figuring done tonight after snowblowing the drive.
It looks like I'm going to have to move the battery out of the engine bay once I cut that corner out for tire clearance. The plan is to mount it in a sealed box (still looking for a good one) behind the passenger seat. I've got some 2AWG welding cable that should just do the trick for that.

Might as well run it to a kill switch as it goes forward, so you can shut down all electrical power.
I run this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1013/
It has a big lug on each side for the battery power, and 2 smaller 'switches' - one of which I use to switch the signal wire to the coil.
They are required for all competitions, and after your wiring harness gets a little 'frayed' it allows you to ignore finding the reason your battery is always draining down and just isolate it when the jeep isn't running
I should also note, that particular kill switch isnt rated for enough to wire the winch through it. I isolate my electrical system with it, except for the winch.

Also, with an optima / AGM battery there is no concern for spilling.
The only small concern would be a buildup of hydrogen gas from charging... but if its charging, the vehicle will be on, and the driver will be getting in and out quite a bit offering sufficient airflow to deal with the small amount of hydrogen.
Or at least thats how I felt safe. :wierd:


R.I.P. Jasper

 

[Gravesdiggerxj]

The pinion yoke will clearance its self on the exhaust if need be.

hey works for me

 

[kastein]

My condolences That really sucks.

 

[Begster]

Sorry to hear about Jasper Bill.

 

[RCman]

im sorry to hear about Jasper Bill, RIP

Sorry to hear man...Jasper was awesome and so full of energy
I'll always remember him barking our ears off whenever I came over! haha.

Its more than just a dog when you have one, its your buddy ,your best friend, someone to talk to, someone to smile stupidly at you, someone who doesnt mind just layin round when you play, sorry for your loss. It saddens me to even think of the day I will not be with my bud. Chin up

Been following the thread for a long while. I think those pictures are the best in this thread.
I am sorry for your loss and thank you for sharing.

x2, he was definitely a talkative one heh. Sorry to hear about that man, he really was a good dog

sorry to hear about Jasper

R.I.P. Jasper

My condolences That really sucks.

Sorry to hear about Jasper Bill.

Thanks guys. It has been hard to even get the motivation to work when everything reminds me of him. Simple things like brushing the metal chips away from the floor around the drill press so he wouldn’t get them in his paws is still getting me choked up. :tears:

 

[RCman]

Ok… let’s try to get back to focus. I was able to get the orbital mount done first thing Saturday. I wasn’t sure how I was going to do it, but everything seemed to just fall into place perfectly. I have had a C-Rok inner/outer steering box brace kit sitting in a box for years now (it is one of the few things I have left that were supposed to go on before I was rearended). I was holding onto it for the woman’s XJ, but the inner plate just worked to good to pass up. I welded a short section of 1.75” DOM around the hole for the furthest rearward bolt and then the PSC mounting bracket to that. Leaving the end of the DOM open still allows me to drop in a washer and nut onto the bolt. Perfect.
Mocked up (yes, the splines on the shaft are not fully engaged):

Out, welded and painted. The little gusset in the lower corner isn’t really needed at all. I just had it sitting next to me when I was welding it up, so I figured why not?

Then work began on making some knuckles. After kicking around the idea of new knuckles for awhile now I realized I just don’t have the cash. The original plan was to run the stock Ford knuckles that I have been using for everything up until this point. I was getting more and more worried about the full hydro high steer only and those knuckles. I was able to grab a set of ’77 Snowfighter knuckles for next to nothing.
The issue with the earlier Snowfighter knuckles (and the reason they were so cheap) is the odd spindle shape as seen below.

This obviously wasn’t going to work. So after talking with a few “connections” I was able to grab some CNC time to open them up. Perfect new (round) holes. A little bit of the odd shaped corners still remain, but the spindle fits like it should (just snug) so I'm happy.

Then they had a date with the bandsaw and the sandblaster:

Gives a good idea of what was cut off:

I then proceeded to make some paper templates and cut some plates to stiffen the whole thing up out of 1/4". Sorry no pictures of those.
So that’s pretty much where I’m at. I’ve got to spend some more time getting the 1/4" to fit a little better then I’ll heat everything up and burn it home.

Might as well run it to a kill switch as it goes forward, so you can shut down all electrical power.
I run this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1013/
It has a big lug on each side for the battery power, and 2 smaller 'switches' - one of which I use to switch the signal wire to the coil.
They are required for all competitions, and after your wiring harness gets a little 'frayed' it allows you to ignore finding the reason your battery is always draining down and just isolate it when the jeep isn't running
I should also note, that particular kill switch isnt rated for enough to wire the winch through it. I isolate my electrical system with it, except for the winch.

Also, with an optima / AGM battery there is no concern for spilling.
The only small concern would be a buildup of hydrogen gas from charging... but if its charging, the vehicle will be on, and the driver will be getting in and out quite a bit offering sufficient airflow to deal with the small amount of hydrogen.
Or at least thats how I felt safe. :wierd:

That’s a good idea with the kill switch. A bit pricey, but a very good idea. Do you have the winch wired direct?

I’ve got an old Optima that was in my XJ and is now in my truck. That one is embossed with “Made in Aurora Colorado, USA”. I wouldn’t buy one now as they have a “Made in Mexico” label on them. To bad, but I just can’t trust them anymore. Enough on those.
I’m still looking for a good battery option. I’m seriously considering a DieHard Platinum P-1 (ODYSSEY PC 1500T). Even though I’ll be using a drycell battery I will put it in some sort of enclose and vent it to the outside. I’ll just feel safer.

 

[XJ_ranger]

That’s a good idea with the kill switch. A bit pricey, but a very good idea. Do you have the winch wired direct?

I *should* have the winch isolated too, but I have it right off the battery...

my battery is right behind the passenger seat, and my winch is right in front of it, so it worked out really well. you can see the kill switch in just to the right of the seats in the shot below, and all the other ghetto-fab getitdonerightbeforegoingwheeling junkyness!

Some people run these kind of switches with success - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-74102/ though it doesnt have the smaller load inter-connected switches.

I *plan* on buying one of those and running EVERYTHING through it, and keeping the other to kill the motor and isolate everything but the winch. :wierd:

 

[RCman]

I *should* have the winch isolated too, but I have it right off the battery...

my battery is right behind the passenger seat, and my winch is right in front of it, so it worked out really well.

[pic removed]

Some people run these kind of switches with success - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-74102/ though it doesnt have the smaller load inter-connected switches.

I *plan* on buying one of those and running EVERYTHING through it, and keeping the other to kill the motor and isolate everything but the winch. :wierd:

I was just looking at that Moroso one and this one: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-830050/
Seems like a better option, until I need that push-pull style. I'm trying to maintain somewhat of a budget. :laugh2:

I don't think I really need the smaller load interconnected switches anyway, right?

 

[foxwar71]

Gives a good idea of what was cut off:

Bill, you gunna retain the stock steering stops? It would be alot easier to run a single piece of plate from top to bottom if you removed more of it and cut into it. Since you're running full hydro and RCV's, i dont see any reason you cant just go to the stops on the ram?

 

[Starboard M]

I was thinking about running my DieHard battery inside, and posted up about it
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11025260

Also, try searching over on Pirate for "battery kill switches." I read until I wasnt seeing strait, and still have no idea what the heck I am going to do. Two links to get you started
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187721&highlight=battery+kill+switch

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=712105

 

[RCman]

Bill, you gunna retain the stock steering stops? It would be alot easier to run a single piece of plate from top to bottom if you removed more of it and cut into it. Since you're running full hydro and RCV's, i dont see any reason you cant just go to the stops on the ram?

The knuckles won't be cut anymore, it won't be to difficult to heat and shape the steel to fit that curve. The problem area is more toward the top above the spindle where it is several bends and angles in a very small section.

You know I'm not sure about the stops. I pulled them out because they were dinky little 3/8"-24 bolts and already bent over (another issue with the earlier Snowfighter knuckles, later ones use 1/2"-20 bolts). I had PSC internally limit the ram when I ordered it, so it isn't possible for it to travel any further and is already correct for my setup. The stops wern't going to be used anyway. The ram ends about 1/16" shy of the stop. They were there as a guide really. I was planning on drilling and re-tapping them for the larger bolts, but now you have me wondering if I should even bother. :dunno:

I was thinking about running my DieHard battery inside, and posted up about it
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=11025260

Hmmm... I guess it depends on what kind of DieHard you have.
The plan was to run the DieHard Platinum P-1 (Group 34, Odyssey PC1500) or Platinum P-2 (Group 65, Odyssey PC1750). Both of those are sealed units. The problem is, I'm having a hard time finding a sealed box to contain either of them that isn't overly expensive.
I've found this, but it isn't cheap and I'd like to be 1/2 that cost: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890102/

Also, try searching over on Pirate for "battery kill switches." I read until I wasnt seeing strait, and still have no idea what the heck I am going to do. Two links to get you started
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187721&highlight=battery+kill+switch

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=712105

After doing some more research it looks like the Moroso 74102 unit is the way to go. That should work fine for the entire system. I'll run two 2AWG all the way up (being as it is free, I'll use that rather than buying 0/1 or 0/2 AWG just to have a single wire). If I ever need that isolated for whatever reason I'll grab one of the Flaming River units to take care of shutdown duty. I like Opie's way of killing the coil.

 

[foxwar71]

The knuckles won't be cut anymore, it won't be to difficult to heat and shape the steel to fit that curve. The problem area is more toward the top above the spindle where it is several bends and angles in a very small section.

You know I'm not sure about the stops. I pulled them out because they were dinky little 3/8"-24 bolts and already bent over (another issue with the earlier Snowfighter knuckles, later ones use 1/2"-20 bolts). I had PSC internally limit the ram when I ordered it, so it isn't possible for it to travel any further and is already correct for my setup. I was planning on drilling and re-tapping them for the larger bolts, but now you have me wondering if I should even bother. :dunno:

i wouldnt bother with them, its not like youre gunna exceed RCV's operating angles .!..!.



be sure to make the knuckles extra pimp because you know im gunna try/will out do whatever you do.




http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10081706&postcount=84
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10086467&postcount=85

 

[RCman]

i wouldnt bother with them, its not like youre gunna exceed RCV's operating angles .!..!.

be sure to make the knuckles extra pimp because you know im gunna try/will out do whatever you do.

You volunteering to finish these for me? :moon: Still got the fancy TIG?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10081706&postcount=84
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=10086467&postcount=85

Those are pretty much what I had in my mind as to what I was shooting for.