Gravesdiggerxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Salt Lake City, Utah
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Project CRD MJ is born:
- Thread starter zluster
- Start date
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Nothing new, just some pictures of more parts:
Not sure if my pedals in the 88 are going to work right for me(at least not without some work), so I grabbed these pedals from a 96 (96 pedals will bolt to the dual diaphragm booster, and my master without issue, and at $10 its hard to complain)
Now I had already grabbed a clutch master/slave setup, but I found one at the junkyard that is a new replacement, so I decided it was a slightly better part, so once again for $10 I got something that should be a little better:
(the original one)
(and the nice "new" one I grabbed today)
The dual diaphragm booster out of the 01:
This is the 8.25 that will be going in there at some point:
And of course the heated leather seats of out a 01 XJ limited that will be installed:
Not sure if my pedals in the 88 are going to work right for me(at least not without some work), so I grabbed these pedals from a 96 (96 pedals will bolt to the dual diaphragm booster, and my master without issue, and at $10 its hard to complain)
Now I had already grabbed a clutch master/slave setup, but I found one at the junkyard that is a new replacement, so I decided it was a slightly better part, so once again for $10 I got something that should be a little better:
(the original one)
(and the nice "new" one I grabbed today)
The dual diaphragm booster out of the 01:
This is the 8.25 that will be going in there at some point:
And of course the heated leather seats of out a 01 XJ limited that will be installed:
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Got a set of doors off a jeep being parted:
Problem is they have brown door panels.....grr, I have a good black drivers door panel....but no good passenger door panel.......still gotta find one.......
Problem is they have brown door panels.....grr, I have a good black drivers door panel....but no good passenger door panel.......still gotta find one.......
derrickdrew17
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncanville
Ok guys lets head up to colorado... I know a good place to find XJ parts laying around... haha
Good find.. Dont see many good shape donors here
Good find.. Dont see many good shape donors here
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Trespassers will be violated - by me.
I actually got the passenger side fender off of the same parts jeep for a Cherokee I flipped a little while ago, the jeep I got it off of was in good shape before it was wrecked.
vegas_baja
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- las vegas
ohh man this thread just gave me a stiffy (and not because the OP mentioned violating people)
I have been reading all the rumors in the different magazines about the bolt in swap kit mopar is teasing us with to swap the CRD 2.8 libby motor into TJ's. I want this engine in my XJ baaaad and even considered what it would cost to buy a foreign Xj that already has the 2.5 or 2.8 engine in it and import it back to the states just for swap purposes.
subscribing to thread
I have been reading all the rumors in the different magazines about the bolt in swap kit mopar is teasing us with to swap the CRD 2.8 libby motor into TJ's. I want this engine in my XJ baaaad and even considered what it would cost to buy a foreign Xj that already has the 2.5 or 2.8 engine in it and import it back to the states just for swap purposes.
subscribing to thread
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Those are just rumors, nothing else, I don't ever expect to see anything tangible come out of it.
The XJ used the VM 2.5, it is an older version of the CRD found in the liberties - yet not nearly as sophisticated, SOHC, IDI, and has some head issues.
Really, finding a parts KJ is your best bet for a swap.
derrickdrew17
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Duncanville
I went to the texas state fair today... saw a Jeep Wrangler J8.. with a turbo diesel.. I had a wierd... D60 rearend with a 5 bolt patern.. and a D44 front end. and its looks like a 4 door verson with the second door just welded shut and turn it into a long body 2 door. Ohh it comes with coil springs front and spring under leaf springs in the rear.
Chief93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southcentral PA
So.... anything new?
- Location
- Columbus, In
Got a set of doors off a jeep being parted:
Problem is they have brown door panels.....grr, I have a good black drivers door panel....but no good passenger door panel.......still gotta find one.......
If you wanna get rid of those tan door panels let me know mine are shot
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Ok so these are the engine mounts for a diesel XJ,
then here you can see that while the mounts are similar in design, they do not bolt in the same place, rather they set slighter further back in the engine bay, and utilize some different bolts.
Now from what I can see in the pictures of those mounts and from looking at my engine it looks like these mounts might share the engine side bolt pattern, if this is the case then I might be able to get real lucky and just have the motor boltin to the engine bay, boltup to the factory tranny support, and not have to build either of those.
If I am not so lucky(which history would seem to indicate that I am not), then I will not be able to use the engine side bracket, in which case using the XJ diesel motor mounts will probably still be better, they set further back and are almost necessary. It appears that trying to use the gasser XJ mounts will actually interfere with things like the AC compressor, Injection Pump, and Power steering. So right now the plan is to use diesel XJ mounts, and probably have to build my own engine side brackets.
Now something else has come up, if my ECU came from a vehicle with a SKIM(sentry key immobilizer module) then I will either need to get the calibration reset from my ECU, or get a SKIM and transponder key and have both the SKIM and the ECU reprogrammed via the DRBIII to match.
then here you can see that while the mounts are similar in design, they do not bolt in the same place, rather they set slighter further back in the engine bay, and utilize some different bolts.
Now from what I can see in the pictures of those mounts and from looking at my engine it looks like these mounts might share the engine side bolt pattern, if this is the case then I might be able to get real lucky and just have the motor boltin to the engine bay, boltup to the factory tranny support, and not have to build either of those.
If I am not so lucky(which history would seem to indicate that I am not), then I will not be able to use the engine side bracket, in which case using the XJ diesel motor mounts will probably still be better, they set further back and are almost necessary. It appears that trying to use the gasser XJ mounts will actually interfere with things like the AC compressor, Injection Pump, and Power steering. So right now the plan is to use diesel XJ mounts, and probably have to build my own engine side brackets.
Now something else has come up, if my ECU came from a vehicle with a SKIM(sentry key immobilizer module) then I will either need to get the calibration reset from my ECU, or get a SKIM and transponder key and have both the SKIM and the ECU reprogrammed via the DRBIII to match.
Chief93XJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Southcentral PA
I know that some remote vehicle starter systems have you get a key programmed (via DRB III) but not neccesarily "cut" that then sticks in a remotely mounted box or transponder, whatever you wanna call it. Then when you push the start button on the key fob, it reads this extra key that's inside the remote transponder (and mounted under the dash) and sends that signal to the SKIM equipped PCM. Maybe you could find just the extra SKIM key reader parts that you could use, that might be cheaper. Just a thought. I don't know who makes these particularly, I just programmed a blank key for a guy once back when I worked at a Jeep dealer.
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Yes, thats basically what I was saying I would need to do, keep a transponder key mounted in a SKIM connected to the PCI BUS, and have them all programmed to work in concert as they would from the factory.
Ok, did a little bit of teardown and started looking at what it would take to get this 2500 header panel to fit.
And some more work:
So as you can see the 2500 header fits back in a little bit:
I measure 3.25" deep:
And I measure 3.25" back from the leading edge of the hood. So basically the header is supposed to sit back flush against the front face of the "headlight bucket" so it looks like I will be trimming off that whole side piece where the fender bracket ties the fender to the "headlight bucket" with the ~.25" gap between the header panel and the hood I think that will be just about right.
And semi naked:
kndrewa
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver British Columbia
the visual transformation begins!
noChrome71
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake Orion, MI
Vinyl die works very well for plastic parts such as door panels, used it many times and never rubs off.
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Ok so this is kinda academic since we should have our fenders and such soon from the groupbuy, but it looks like the 2500 fenders use the newer style upper header mount.
If you note this is a 97+ fender that I threw on for comparison:
So here you can see the upper header mount and the stud on the 2500 header panel line up perfect.
In these last two you can just barely see the stud and the stud hole on the 2500 front end, they do not appear to lineup correctly, though to be fair this fender needs trimming before the header panel will sit flush, and it is a little mangled up.
If you note this is a 97+ fender that I threw on for comparison:
So here you can see the upper header mount and the stud on the 2500 header panel line up perfect.
In these last two you can just barely see the stud and the stud hole on the 2500 front end, they do not appear to lineup correctly, though to be fair this fender needs trimming before the header panel will sit flush, and it is a little mangled up.
zluster
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Baby!
Started pulling the interior panels out of the MJ, ripped out the carpet tonight, more rust than I was expecting given the outside condition of the vehicle, guess it was that wet carpet syndrome that got to it.
Lucky none of it is through the body, and none of it is even soft, went around and tapped on all the rusty spots with welding hammer, all if it is good and solid, and basically appears just to be a heavily pitted surface rust.
So right now the plan is to wire brush everything with rust on it, then get some POR15 and coat everything well(after I make modifications to the floor for the newer seats to bolt in), then the POR15 will get covered with the sound deadening material.
Anyone have anything else to consider for rust abatement?
Here you can see a VERY quick pass(not even 30 secs worth) of wire brush, compared to what it looked like before. I think the wire brush will work well on the surfaces I can get to, its the seam where I cannot get between, or the channel that I cannot get between, that worries me.
Of course, if this is as bad as it is after 22 years, another 22 years of equally bad rust wouldn't be the end of the world. Who knows, I somehow doubt I will still own the Jeep in 22 years(maybe, thats a long ways off)
I also found a flash suppressor under the carpet, LOL
Lucky none of it is through the body, and none of it is even soft, went around and tapped on all the rusty spots with welding hammer, all if it is good and solid, and basically appears just to be a heavily pitted surface rust.
So right now the plan is to wire brush everything with rust on it, then get some POR15 and coat everything well(after I make modifications to the floor for the newer seats to bolt in), then the POR15 will get covered with the sound deadening material.
Anyone have anything else to consider for rust abatement?
Here you can see a VERY quick pass(not even 30 secs worth) of wire brush, compared to what it looked like before. I think the wire brush will work well on the surfaces I can get to, its the seam where I cannot get between, or the channel that I cannot get between, that worries me.
Of course, if this is as bad as it is after 22 years, another 22 years of equally bad rust wouldn't be the end of the world. Who knows, I somehow doubt I will still own the Jeep in 22 years(maybe, thats a long ways off)
I also found a flash suppressor under the carpet, LOL
