Project "Constructive Deconstruction"

very nice work on that crossmember. Maybe I missed it but what side are you planning on putting your upper mount? I put mine on the passenger side, I cut out the passenger floor board and basically mounted my adjustable mount on top of my crossmember. This allowed me to weld it to the uni body and the crossmember. I used the adjustable Barnes axle mount and by using the upper hole it gave me 9 inches of separation at the axle and 6 at the body. It also kept my upper flat and was within an inch of being the same length as my lower. All in all it climbs like it's possessed.
 
long story short... i dont know. :dunno:

i had planned to put it on the passenger side. but if the arm is completely flat like i designed i think ill run into issues with the exhaust and starter. the guy i bought shocks from had the clayton kit which runs the arm on the drivers side. it looks like there is a lot more room over there. id prefer to not go through the floor... which looks like i can get either 4 or 5 inches of separation at the frame, and up to 10 inches at the axle. mounting the upper off of the axle truss, i have a lot more options mounting it on the passenger side... going to place the lowers and then reevaluate.

im using all barnes parts as well.

got any photos to share?
 
I figured since it was such a long trip I’d post up some pics so there is no confusion. I’ve checked each box to make sure that each rim is a 15x8 X103 and that the backspacing is the same. I’ve also verified that each box has the required hardware. Let me know if there is anything else you’d like me to check before tomorrow.


Boxes

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Packaging

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Unwrapped with hardware

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Rim model number and size

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Backspacing

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Here’s a pic from further back of the set I put on my jeep for a better view

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Also here is a pic of my upper assembly and how well it clears.

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been having an issue my tie rod contacting the drag link at full bump. turns out the axle was built with a little stretch. i need to mock up a track bar and make sure itll fit before i pull the trigger on new coil buckets, but i think thats the answer. if i cant sneak a trackbar in there, i may have to move the steering gear... we will see.

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in other news... got a wheel mounted. only took me an hour. lol. ill do the others when its a bit warmer. i did mock them up to make sure i have caliper clearance. im thinking its too tight to run stick on weights and static balance them... which means ill be ripping this one apart to put beads in it. if its not one thing its another.

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Just wanted you to know that I didn't really like how my 60 degree tapered lugs fit the rims I sold you so I looked on Ultra's site and they call for a Nascar style 45 degree tapered lug.
 
Just wanted you to know that I didn't really like how my 60 degree tapered lugs fit the rims I sold you so I looked on Ultra's site and they call for a Nascar style 45 degree tapered lug.

good to know. thank you.

are those available in a 1/2-20 thread? i was looking at my lugs the other day... the lugs in the D44 have a pretty obvious step, and can probably be upgraded to a larger lug. bu the lugs in my rear moser shafts are threaded in. i really dont think there is enough material to drill them out and insert a knurled stud. im going to contact moser, but think im stuck with 1/2-20.
 
got some new product in today and cut it down for distribution... lol. going to put beads in my wheels. i dont have enough clearance to run stick on weights.

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started with this today:

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ended with this:

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because im moving the coil buckets. and need to address this:

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You'd solve lots of problems with coilovers.

mac 'just need tabs' gyvr
 
Been having a bit of an issue with my beadlocks...

got one done, let it sit for a few days. zero PSI drop. so that got me all excited to do the remaining three. and then... i had a fit of breaking bolts. the ultras use 5/16-18 grade 8s, and shouldnt have any issues being torqued down to 20 lb/ft. but i was breaking them even before i got to 15 lb/ft. i tried different torque wrenches, different rings, new hardware, and even started with a new wheel, tire, and ring/bolts... same results.

to make a very long and painful story short... after talking to ultra i wasnt doing anything wrong in the torque sequence. they concluded that the rings i had were machined incorrectly and were side loading the bolts, there was obvious deformation where the bolt was physically contacting the boss of the ring. they sent me 4 free of charge, which i got today. in about 2 hours i had the 3 remaining wheels done. i cannot say enough about how helpful they have been, and how awesome these things look now that they are all together. best part is, ill get to shake the guys hand who helped me at KOH. :cool:

now i just need something to bolt them to. i know the lugs on the 9" are too short, ill have to double check the 44. which... if i have to replace both, i may step up my stud size. everyone likes beef right?
 
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progress is forward again. finally got a helping hand to sling the front axle back under the jeep. now i got tie rod/drag link clearance.

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coil buckets look like they are going to line up well too. should also clear the coils at full locks. itll be close, but clear.

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i think that im going to have to bump stop a little more to give the track bar clearance to the ram, but right now its as stuffed as possible. im going to try to avoid longer bumps, so we will see. control arm clears the frame well too.

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also started mocking up the upper, i am going to have to BFG the floor a bit but that should clear as well. i did some thinking, and i really want to run the upper on the drivers side. the whole idea is to remove the bind associated with a 4 link or radius arm setup. but with the upper link on the drivers side... when the passenger side droops out and the drivers side stuffs, the single upper link would be trying to make the pinion climb, (and vice versa) opposite of what you want. it makes more sense to me to control the axle at the diff than on the passenger side, despite the packaging issues. anyone see any issues with this?




KOH has fired me up to finish this thing. lol.
 
after much deliberating... which involved me lying under the jeep just staring upward... i think this is where the upper is going to land (centered over the truss of course). i also plan to repair the truss.

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i had to BFH the floor, and the link will actually be more outboard at the axle side to finish the rest.... but im pretty sure itll fit. should be OK through droop, but thats just eyeballing it. its more separation that i wanted per the calculator, but... itll have to do.

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frame side mount. i have two mounting locations, and 1/2" of clearance from the floor. ill have to notch the crossmember, but i planned for that.

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the reason for the deliberating... i had planned to just put the link on the passenger side. i even clearanced the frame rail with relief cuts and a BFH only to ask myself.... "how the hell am i going to get a bolt in here with the exhaust in the way?

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trackbar needs to be bent... which i have no idea how im going to bend 1/4" wall DOM. and it really wants to live where the ram mount is.

on a brighter note... PSC overdrive pulley also got installed today, along with a new pump. why? because hydro assist, thats why. should have my stuff back from west texas offroad in a week or two.

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