Power Window Switch "button" removal

[sjx40250]

Can it be removed from the control box/switch without breaking or is it "glued" in place? I am contemplating taking the DMM in the Drv door apart to address the lack of power to my other doors window switches.

I know about the jumper solution, but would like to address the root cause.

 

[the_weirdo]

I think the only other option is to buy the entire cluster which costs upwards of a few hundred dollars at the dealership. I don't think you can take that one switch out.

 

[kastein]

Is this for your 90, 92, or 98? I can look up a part number you can use on mopardiscountparts.com (or others) to get somewhat of a discount at least. Personally I would go to the junkyard, pick up one that matches, and carefully try to disassemble it and clean it, kinda like the NSS fix. Shouldn't cost more than 10-20 bucks.

 

[sjx40250]

98. The others haven't had a problem!

I suspect that because it is a DMM, and the other switches are sold as assemblies, that there would not be a seperate part in a parts list. They are known as FRU's field replaceable units. This does not mean they cannot be disassembled.

I was trying not to go to the junk yard but may have to to find a bezel for the DMM anyway, mine is broken.

I will look at mopardisountparts.com

Thanks for the prompt replys. I did read where someone cleaned the contacts of the lock out switch to fix the problem. This leads me to believe they can be "Popped" off and replaced. I replaced a unit on a 97 GC but the "button" was broken off, so I didn't learn anything about disassembly. I am not a member of that forum and didn't want to join another one. This is the best with the best depth of knowledge!

 

[kastein]

So it's a 98 LHD, 2dr or 4dr? And just to make sure I'm talking about the same part you are, this is the master switch panel on the door armrest that controls locks/windows/mirrors, right? With what options? Windows definitely, power mirrors as well?

 

[sjx40250]

98 LHD 4dr, Yup, All, Yup. It is a Limited, fully optioned DMM. Pulled it out and checked it before knowing the pin out's. Since the switch lights don't light up at the other 3 doors, I know they are not getting power. What I don't know is if the lock out connection is failing or if there is a open somewhere else in the circuit. I have seen a pic of the yellow wire broken under the door sill, which was a problem.

 

[sjx40250]

mopardisountparts.com didn't help, but thanks. Interesting site. I may use them in the future.

 

[kastein]

You can use a continuity meter to find out if that wire is broken - pop your door apart and pull the kick panel off right by the pedals, unplug the wiring harness for the door that contains the yellow wire and measure continuity to the yellow wire on the part inside the door.

The part number you are looking for is 5600 9449AC. mopardiscountparts.com lists it as costing $116. Based on the fact that you can get at least five, possibly ten or eleven for that price at the junkyard, I would suggest giving the JY a try... look at it this way, even if you buy three @ $20, break one trying to open it up, another one is beyond repair, and finally get one that works or can be repaired on the third try you're still $50 ahead and haven't screwed with your original one yet.

 

[sjx40250]

Yes, I should go to the JY with my DMM (digital multi meter) and find a good one after validating the one I have is bad.

Thanks for the PN.

BTW: I have already been in the door. "Pulled it out and checked it before knowing the pin out's."

 

[kastein]

Oops, missed that part! Good luck.

 

[sjx40250]

Thanks for your help kastein!

 

[Greenz]

Here is the root cause.



I found two cracked solder joints that go to the window lock button. Resoldered those connections and all worked again. kinda...

Yes you can take the module apart but it's a pain. Window lock button pulls straight out. Window up/down switches have to be pried upward evenly on both sides and they will pop up. All five of mine didnt pop up evenly and mared the clear light lens slightly. Only noticable to me.

Please take this advise. fix only the cracked solder joints for now. For me, Cleaning the contacts has created a nightmare. After cleaning the contacts and the red grease in there, the contacts started wearing fast. I have been back in the module a few times now to touch up the contacts with fresh solder to build them back up. Each time I can get it working like new again but it wears out again mostly drivers window, after about 4-5 months.

Sorry for the small pic but the original larger one is at home on my hard drive.

 

[sjx40250]

Greenx,
Good info. Just what I was looking for!

The image is a box that says "jeepforum.com no hotlinking".

Have you tried a good dialectric grease? There is a paste the is the opposite, electrically....can't for the life of me remember the name. Small tube found at ACE hardware that is expensive but you don't need much as it is conductive. Application is critical to avoid shorts. I use it on all connectors including spark plug wires just to ensure minimum resistance at the contact interface.

 

[sjx40250]

Here are some ideas!
1. Get a rear window defogger repair kit. Cut what you need to creat a new pad. The adhesive is conductive so you can lay it on the run.

2. Use conductive adhesive and reynolds wrap aluminum material as a replacement pad.

Using solder for a pad is not a long term solution. The pads are not made of solder but a combination of copper and tin. You may need to use a magnifying glass to do the work! If runs are broken you can use "jumper wire" to replace the run or trace.

I can't image the board is multilayer, two sided at the most. Guess I find out when I take it apart.

 

[Greenz]

Greenx,

The image is a box that says "jeepforum.com no hotlinking".

I was afraid that might happen. Image shows up for me. Anywho, I will try to fix it or you can go to that forum and look in my gallery. I use the same name there.

Thanks for the dielectric grease tip, I will definitly pick some up for the next time.

 

[fyrfytr1717]

These units are for sale (used) on ebay all the time for about $20. If you're patient, you can get the driver and passenger side both for about $20. The new (to me) unit I bought fixed my auto down window switch problem, but I still have the window lock problem. I tried popping open the old unit but it felt like I was just going to break it. Guess I'll give it another shot as I don't really want to bypass my window lock.

 

[sjx40250]

I took mine apart. Stupid me for not testing it first. It is fine. the problem is down stream. I did break the window lock button, but it will work find and not fall off. I woudl guess it is very difficult to remove without breaking.

For those of you who want to take it apart. Know that you do not need to remove the mirror controls prior to taking the cover off. Only the 6 lower switches. I found that it is easier to get one end of the "button" partially off then do the other end. One did pop off and I had to hunt for it. They are very resistant to removal.

My recommendation is to test the DMM before disassembly. Wish I could draw a picture. There are two connectors. when looking at the back of the DMM with the mirror controls up, the lower right pin is where the power comes out of the unit to the doors. It is where the yellow wire connects. For the bottom connector the lower row, third connector from the right is the power source pin. This is the power in to the DMM. If the window lock is in the up position, there should be continuity between these two pins. If not, the DMM is faulty.

My hunt continues next. I used a jumper wire, which happened to have a fuse in line, to jump between the two sockets of the pins described above. I then turned the key on to power up everything just before the start position. I tried to operate the windows and checked for power - nothing.

My next step is to remove the kick panel on the left side to find a connector from the door to the harness leading to the doors. I will do a continuity check from the door connector to the one behind the panel. I just hope there is a connector! There usually is.

The ebay info is good to know.