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So by that logic I should be on stock control arm locations since I am about 5" of lift. :laugh:
There is a big big difference in ride when you go from a 5 degree control arm angle to a 20 degree angle!
To the OP; sounds like you are on the right track but as others have said get the stiffeners before anything else. They truly make a difference. Steering can go many ways you just need to be honestly with yourself on how much wheeling and how much street driving you will really do.
To the op
1 8.25 is a great axle I have had mine in my rig for a year and have been wheeling on it no problems. This is with a auto locker in it.
2 shocks matter for ride, with my rubicon express springs I have a great ride with my 255/75 valved bilstien 5150s
3 keep it 2-3 inches a 33 will fit no problem!
4 I have an auto, but 3.55s on my mtrs was not bad. On the heavier steel rims and with heavier swampers I need gears bad.
5 steering. I have a zj tie rod it is a nice setup. But currie is better.
6 body. Factory skids are not bad! Grab them! Do unibody stiffeners as well!
That's all for now folks!
You come and quote my post, with actual experienced information, (I had 4 inches of lift on short arms for 3 years, now long arms for at least 2 years) and you try to tell me MY build is unnecessary and done wrong?
You are an idiot. I agree with cal.
The control arm angle at 5 inches would be absolutely atrocious, especially considering that stock they are essentially flat. Not to mention the fact that when I had short arms at full droop, the coils would bang and scrape against the bumpstop post, making a horrible noise, and it would push the wheel back so far it would almost hit the fender. After long arms... That was all solved
Before- The passenger side tire is getting sucked under the wheel wel, and you can see the coil is out of place-