Phase II

So if I go hunting for axles, what am I looking for? My unit bearings are the Renix early type that require the axle stub to have a seal surface on it. The 297 shafts with the ABS tone rings don't have the proper seal surface.

Am I looking for shafts from a 1997-2001 non-ABS XJ? No tone rings?
 
PacificEd said:
So if I go hunting for axles, what am I looking for? My unit bearings are the Renix early type that require the axle stub to have a seal surface on it. The 297 shafts with the ABS tone rings don't have the proper seal surface.

Am I looking for shafts from a 1997-2001 non-ABS XJ? No tone rings?
Click to expand...


you can use the ones with the tone rings or without, no difference. you just need the appropriate wheel bearing that doesnt need the seal on the axle
 
I've only broken a shaft once with my 30 and 35s. Though, to be fair, I'm the type of wheeler that tries it slow and easy the first 2 times. If that don't work momentum will. THAT is how I justify my Waggy 44 install. I don't want to worry about breaking a 30 shaft. I've changed way too many D30 shafts on the side of the trail and I don't plan on doing it again.

Comare changing a 30 shaft to getting out and unlocking the hubs on a 44. SOOO much easier. It's easier to take apart too. All ya gotta have is the spindle nut socket, a 9/16s socket and ratchet, and a lug wrench.
 
Ed just got those new unit bearings though so it make sense to keep them. From what I have seen, as long as its a 96 or newer WITHOUT ABS they should work even with the Renix style unit bearings. FWIW, the ranger in on 35's and has a HP 30 with stock shafts and an ARB with 4.56 gears and V8 power. I have been able to spit a cap or 2, but never broken a shaft or u-joint. I don't even spring for the good spicer brand joints. Just the parts store brand and still have had good luck.

I agree with Doug, some stock 297 shafts and 33s or 35s and rock it!
 
Wife is asking do I want alloy shafts or tires? I had decided to just go ahead and get a set of alloys and be done but......if 297 shafts would hold up, tires would be really nice.
 
Get 297's tack the caps after you insert the shafts through the knuckles.
 
I wouldn't Tack the caps... especially for Ed's type of wheeling. I MIGHT grind the shafts and install full circle clips, but even that is pushing it. For 33's there is no need to do that. However, stock big joint shafts and new tires is my vote!
 
Team Willys said:
I wouldn't Tack the caps... especially for Ed's type of wheeling. I MIGHT grind the shafts and install full circle clips, but even that is pushing it. For 33's there is no need to do that. However, stock big joint shafts and new tires is my vote!
Click to expand...

I will do one or the other to anything I wheel in the future. Tacking caps takes 5 min. All but one broken front shaft was because of a spit cap. Dave's breakage at MM was because of a spit cap, he was on 31's, and his breakage at URE last winter was a spit cap, hea heard it break and stopped. We were able to replace the joint on the trail and he wheeled on.
 
I'd go with grinding for full circle clips. Stock clips are a joke, and spitting caps can trash the unit bearing bolts, ask me how I know :)

Tacking gets the job done, but over complicates things when it comes time to replace the joint.
 
Question pertaining to availability of 297x shafts/joints:

I have a 93 that had ABS, do I have the 297s?? Maybe that is why I haven't popped a joint after my locker install and doing that crazy trail 32 on 32s lol.

Watch though, I will pop one in the driveway now.....:looser:
 
i wheel my xj with stock shafts and spicer big joints with full circle clips on 35s.

only shafts ive broken were cause of a spit cap.

havent had a problem since then.
 
I also recommend the full circle clips over tacking just because of replacement issues. If you break one on the trail and they are tacked, you are screwed without a grinder (which most of us DO NOT carry), At least with full circles a trail repair can still easily be accomplished. IMHO, full circles are just as good as tacking...
 
Okay, so I got neither alloys or tires for Christmas.

I am shopping for a new set of tires. I'm really stuck on the BFG KM2's in the 33/1050R15 size. I've wanted a set of BFG's all my life but I just read the Four Wheeler Magazine shootout and the KM2's came in 8th out of 10. The MT MTZ's came in at 3rd and the Goodyear MT/R's were 2nd.

Now I don't know how much validity you put into their test but I figured the way people talk about and recommend the KM2's, they would have done better than 8th place.

I like the 33/1050R15 size for its weight and design. I also like how they look on XJ's. With less weight and rolling mass, my drivestain should survive a little longer and with a smaller contact patch on the road, gas mileage should remain decent.

I drive this rig to and from the trails so streetability is important.

The other delimma is weather to trim and go larger than 33's.

Decisions, decisions. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the 33/1050R15 KM2's are a good choice.
 
PacificEd said:
Okay, so I got neither alloys or tires for Christmas.

I am shopping for a new set of tires. I'm really stuck on the BFG KM2's in the 33/1050R15 size. I've wanted a set of BFG's all my life but I just read the Four Wheeler Magazine shootout and the KM2's came in 8th out of 10. The MT MTZ's came in at 3rd and the Goodyear MT/R's were 2nd.

Now I don't know how much validity you put into their test but I figured the way people talk about and recommend the KM2's, they would have done better than 8th place.

I like the 33/1050R15 size for its weight and design. I also like how they look on XJ's. With less weight and rolling mass, my drivestain should survive a little longer and with a smaller contact patch on the road, gas mileage should remain decent.

I drive this rig to and from the trails so streetability is important.

The other delimma is weather to trim and go larger than 33's.

Decisions, decisions. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the 33/1050R15 KM2's are a good choice.
Click to expand...

Ed, like you I don't tow mine. I am gonna go with the same tire you're looking at. I think they are a very good choice. You and I do similar types of wheeling so we're on the same page there. I'm going with the narrow setup because i'm only running about 3.5- 4" of lift. I will be showing up to the crawl with a set installed! :D
 
Our taste in wheeling is very similar so I look forward to seeing how your rig turns out. When are you getting the KM2's? Before WinterFest? Mark and I will be there so hopefully I can see them then.

I have also been foillowing RockinXJ's thread over in the Sierra forum. He has a little more lift with the same tire and non-trimmed fenders. I'm trying to retain my flares if possible.

I hope to have a new set of some kind of tire on my XJ before the Crawl this year.
 
Ed - I just bought a set of KM2's for WF in a 35x12.50.

Hop in the heep when we're up there and see what you think. I was thinking really hard about 37's, but the cost was almost double, so I went with a replacement set of 35's.

I never believe what is written in a magazine "test". Regardless of their statements of unbias'd opinion, magazines are always advertiser driven.
 
Josh,

Thanks for the offer. I hope to see a lof of different combinations in use at WinterFest. It should be a learning experience.
 
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