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PB works great, but the longer you let it sit the more it'll get the job done. I honestly think soaking it for an hour + allows it to work much better.
PB works great, but the longer you let it sit the more it'll get the job done. I honestly think soaking it for an hour + allows it to work much better.
pb is my pick as well. Nevre heard of kroil but will definitely look for it. some of you say propane or map gas? does that really heat up enough to break a bolt loose? I guess if you have a really fine pencil point flame?
pb is my pick as well. Nevre heard of kroil but will definitely look for it. some of you say propane or map gas? does that really heat up enough to break a bolt loose? I guess if you have a really fine pencil point flame?
The science behind using a torch is that as you heat up metal, it expands. If you put the torch on the bolt, it will expand faster than the nut (since the nut isn't being heated directly by the torch), and this action is what breaks the bolt loose. If you continue to apply heat, the expanding action can actually stretch the (colder) nut a tiny amount, making it much easier to take the bolt out. It works REALLY well. I could not budge the eye bolts on my leaf springs with a 2' breaker bar and tons of Kroil, but after I heated them up for 2 or 3 minutes with the propane torch, let 'em cool for a bit, they came right out with a ratchet. I currently use one of the self-igniting torches from Home Depot that's made for soldering copper pipe. As far as MAPP vs. Propane, MAPP burns hotter, but I've always used propane and it's always been hot enough for me.
that is good to know. I have always used an oxy acetaline setup when i worked in a garage. I didnt know i could get the same benefits from teh propane or map. I always have map around as i was a former plummer as well.
quick question on the leaf spring eye bolts. when you heated them you did it on the head of the bolt or did you get to the back of it?