OX or Truetrac ?

Gremlins? The wrost gremlin of all, a cable that cant route in small spaces, takes forever (if even then) to get adjusted, it goes out of adjustment, the shifter is a PITA to get mounted at times, and if you dont remove the spring from it it wont engauge fully, and then as for the strongest cover, thats questionable. How can you get stronger then a A50 plate in 1/4"? Not to mention you have a cable routed thru it with a jam nut that if you hit on ANYTHING will destroy the cover and cable.

I would do a 1000 true tracs over one Ox, and 1000 air lockers over either.

Well I read the instructions, set it properly, added some locktite for insurance and haven't had to touch it in almost 2 years? If anything ever happened to the shifter, cable etc you also have the option to manually lock the OX to get you home.

A50 is good material if all you're looking to do is fight with someone. Of course you have to buy that in addition to your truetrac, etc.

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0708_bulletproof_test/viewall.html
 
Well I read the instructions, set it properly, added some locktite for insurance and haven't had to touch it in almost 2 years? If anything ever happened to the shifter, cable etc you also have the option to manually lock the OX to get you home.

A50 is good material if all you're looking to do is fight with someone. Of course you have to buy that in addition to your truetrac, etc.

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0708_bulletproof_test/viewall.html


Easy to tell how firearm savvy people are after reading an article like that. :rolleyes:
 
Keeping in mind we're talking about for the front, i love my Truetrac. It's invisible while daily driving but does great in mud/snow/etc when put into 4wd. It's also cheap and it's a full carrier (since the D30 has a flexy stock carrier).
I don't do rocks for the most part, so i haven't really tried it there. Lots of people say you can get it to lock with a little bit of brake application, so if i ever need it i know what to do.

No experience with the OX.
 
Gremlins? The wrost gremlin of all, a cable that cant route in small spaces, takes forever (if even then) to get adjusted, it goes out of adjustment, the shifter is a PITA to get mounted at times, and if you dont remove the spring from it it wont engauge fully, and then as for the strongest cover, thats questionable. How can you get stronger then a A50 plate in 1/4"? Not to mention you have a cable routed thru it with a jam nut that if you hit on ANYTHING will destroy the cover and cable.

I would do a 1000 true tracs over one Ox, and 1000 air lockers over either.

For people who actually know what they are doing, adjusting the OX cable takes less than 15 minutes, and will stay adjusted until the user changes something. Yes, there are routing considerations, but the same is true of air lines. You can always tell when it is fully engaged, and it will work well every time.

The cover is extremely strong, and ever after smooshing the cable between a rock and the axle, I was still able to do a quick adjustment on the cable and retain full selectability. And if you think hitting the end of the cable sheath where it enters the cover with anything will damage the cover, I'm sorry but that's a bit of a stretch there.


I have OX front and rear, I love them.
 
driven rigs with tru tracs, honestly its not much better the a open diff in the hard stuff, i dont see the point of spending that kind of money for a limited slip. everyone ive known that has had a arb loves them and any issues is installer error. with that being said ive only ran lockrites/aussie/spool in my rigs, all are priced right and simply work
 
I got to test my Aussie for the first time today and was very happy with how much it improved my offroad capabilities, however mine is in the rear. For the front on slick daily driver conditions, not sure if I would like that. I would wait, save and go selectable for the front
 
driven rigs with tru tracs, honestly its not much better the a open diff in the hard stuff, i dont see the point of spending that kind of money for a limited slip. everyone ive known that has had a arb loves them and any issues is installer error. with that being said ive only ran lockrites/aussie/spool in my rigs, all are priced right and simply work

"That kind of money"? They are less than half of what a selectable locker costs. I'm pretty sure i paid $379 or so for mine.

Don't get me wrong, i'm sure selectable is nice, but we are talking 2x the money--and after all, we're talking about a Dana 30 here. If you want to gold-plate your Dana 30 i'm sure it will look nice.
 
driven rigs with tru tracs, honestly its not much better the a open diff in the hard stuff, i dont see the point of spending that kind of money for a limited slip. everyone ive known that has had a arb loves them and any issues is installer error. with that being said ive only ran lockrites/aussie/spool in my rigs, all are priced right and simply work

What kind of "hard stuff" and do you know to drag the brakes to get a LSD to transfer power?

For a DD and occasional WW a Trutrac sounds like a good idea. For a Crawler not so much.

Does that sound about right?
 
"That kind of money"? They are less than half of what a selectable locker costs. I'm pretty sure i paid $379 or so for mine.

Don't get me wrong, i'm sure selectable is nice, but we are talking 2x the money--and after all, we're talking about a Dana 30 here. If you want to gold-plate your Dana 30 i'm sure it will look nice.
id do a detroit over a tru trac for the money you spend
 
I've loved the true trac's I've had in my XJ's and WJ, but they are NOT lockers. I think a selectable is the way to go. I think Ox now has an electric actuator kit that can replace/supplement the cable driven one. IIRC, they now have cable, electric, and air actuated kits.
 
I'd like to add Two cents. Had my Detroit lockers (original bangers) since 1992 happy as can be with them. The new soft lockers don't bang like the old ones but I don't mind the very occasional noise. I did not love the lack of being able to do hard sharp turns but since I twin sticked the t-case, on sharp turns I shift to front only and do a dig over or I disengage the rear axle. I have never had to fix a crushed or broken air line or cable, I've never had to replace a fuse or shorted wire. I've never had to let a compressor cool down from overheating. Price was right as well. 'KIS' keep it simple was my motto.
 
I,ve been running Truetracs in both my rigs for going on 7 years now, never had a single failure...and Ive lost count of how many other rigs ive been with that found out their "selectable" locker wasnt working, just when they needed it most..I havent found a trail the Truetrac couldnt get me through yet, and here in the NE we have some rough stuff..I do run a handthrottle with an auto (go ahead, poke fun), but that allows me to drag the brake and keep going when I lift a tire...bonus, they are practically invisible on the street, dont kill your turning radius, and dont need friction modifier in the diff fluid..Simple and strong, I'll stick with Truetracs until I find an obstacle they cant get me over, and I havent found that yet, period..No cables, wires, or airlines to run, no extra wiring or compressor needed, just good old fashioned traction and no hassles.
Rich
 
Sounds like a Truetrac is the way for you if you're a DD and don't intend on crawling rocks and etc... And ARB is like $1000, OX is $850, Truetrac is $400. You could get a winch with the money you saved from the Truetrac, just a thought.
 
i run F/R true tracks on my daily driver, they are invisible on the street and work great in the bush!, Torsen diffs work very well when paired with an auto trans. if you shop around you can find them cheap, i was just over 600 for the front and rear with shipping last year.
 
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