Ok, well I finally got around to doing this. It was pretty easy except for the whole "taking your rear brakes apart to get the old cables out and new ones in" aspect. Still, not too difficult of a process. Sorry no step by step pics, but installing the actual cables is pretty easy as they go in just like the stock ones. I do have pics of how I routed them and what i did to lengthen the adjustment rod coming off the handle.
Here is how I routed them. I ran the driver's side cable to the passenger side and vice versa. I used the two shorter springs to help hold them up and then used about 4 zipties to connect them together where they cross. I didn't tie the zipties very tight as i wanted them to be able to move without binding up, but they are cheap plastic zipties too so they should brake before any problems arrise.
They hooked into the factory retainers just like to originals.
What I did was remove the ebrake handle from the vehicle to make it easier to cut off the threading with my hacksaw. Once you get the center console out its just two bolts holding it in (use a 10mm wrench) and then you can pull it out. I then took my jam nut and threaded it all the way down on the factory adjustment rod. After that I estimated about half the length of the connector nut and cut off all the excess threading. Once I'd done that I threaded the connector nut onto what was left of the oem threading and then threaded my 8mm threaded rod into that with another jam nut behind the connector nut. I then tightened the nuts down. Using the cut off peice of OEM threading as a guide I rough measured out 3 times that length and cut off the excess all thread. I only had to do this as ACE had been out of 1ft sections and I'd bought a 3ft peice. A 1ft peice of all-thread would be plenty. As you can see I have plenty of extra threaded rod after it was all adjusted and I also have plenty of room to adjust them tighter if needed. I then ran the newly lengthened rod through the hole in the floor (the jam nuts and connector nut do fit through the hole, but you'll have to remove the rubber boot, you could attache the extension and nuts from under the vehicle after reinstalling the now cut-dut down ebrake lever to avoid this) and hooked it all together.
*side note: when adjusting your Ebrake the lever should only be about halfway up when the brake becomes fully engaged. Then to verify its tightened you should slowly ease out the clutch and the vehicle should stall while in 1st gear. On an automatic equipped vehicle you should be able to place the transmission in both Drive and Reverse and fully let off the brake pedal w/o the vehicle moving.
The EBake cables I used were the passenger side cables from a 1994 YJ. Cost, about 18.00$ each from AutoZone.
Looks pretty good.
