opinions needed 10 bolt Chromos...sorry long winded

[043500]

I really need some opinions on putting chromoly shafts in my front 10 bolt OR going to a D-60.

I do not plan to go bigger than the 37's I'm running but I broke 3 stock 10 bolt shafts at the Crawl this year. 1 broke when the front end was wedged hard between 2 rocks and I unlocked the hubs and hammered it...well the Driver Side wasn't unlocked and it snapped the stub. The 2nd and 3rd was when my son ROMPED on it hard when it landed as he crested a ledge on LRG...sort of my fault for not telling him to stop sooner. I was actually proud of him for getting on it making it over the ledge.

Of course on Pirate everyone bashes the 10 bolt and says you can get a D-60 for the cost of chromo shafts in the 10 bolt which is BS.

The best price I've seen so far on D-60 that will ~ bolt in to the MJ (remember I have leaves up front) was $850 for the axle itself. Then I have at least $500 over and above that to put in gears, build the kingpins, set up steering etc. And that's MINIMUM.

I'm probably looking at $2000 to get a D-60 in my rig and have the 60 done to the point of not needing to do much else to it and that's if I weld up the spiders vs putting in any sort of locker. I figure stock 60 shafts should hold up fine to my 37's and stock motor but I'd have no spare parts for it at that cost.

Now on the side of the 10 bolt. The only thing it "needs" is to maybe build a new tie rod...I bent the 1.5" DOM in there now...BUT it's not really hurting anything...truck drives fine...it just looks silly being bent under there.

To my knowledge nothing else is wrong with it. (other than I broke shafts)

So I'm also thinking of keeping it at least 1 more Crawl...but putting in chromoly shafts and some high zoot joints.
I've priced them from several companies and it looks like $700-800 is about where I'd be.

So for less than half of a D-60 I can have stronger shafts. I think at that point my week link is either the pinion shaft...which I "THINK" (ha ha) would be ok...or the warn locking hubs...which I could get an extra set of those for under $100.

Plus I'd have my current stock shaft assemblies for spares should the need arise. Plus I can pick up some extra spindles etc for cheap to have those as spares too.

I mean I've seen some of you guys beat on and do way crazier things with D-30's and 35's than I've done with this and 37's...

Part of my dilemma is I do want to set it and forget it which would be the D-60 option...but I already know my budget for the next crawl is going to be TIGHT (the budget for the jeep itself that is) and I really don't think a 60 is in the cards unless I can find the "right" one for $500 which is highly unlikely given the shopping I've done thus far.

So I'm just arguing with myself now...especially since it will probably be around spring time before I can even really do either of the options.

Any thoughts?

 

[PacificEd]

A D60 is a big, heavy axle to only run 37" tires.

I'm a polisher I guess. I'd go with some quality chromo shafts and set of good U-joints and run it. It's lighter, simple, and cheaper to get parts for.

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

30 spline chromo stubs, super joints, chromo inner shafts. or RCVs. or 60. only options that I would consider.
if you keep the 10B and upgrade you'll have to start worrying about your ring and pinion

 

[Ghost]

I ran a D44 before my 60. On 36 IROK's and the doubler. 203/205 I broke it 3 times out of the 6 times I went wheeling that year. It was upgraded to Yukon shafts and joints and never broke again. If I were to keep to 37's I'd run a D44 with RCV's on a stock set up. If you went with a D60 you would loose clearance at the diff but it would be damn near unbreakable with the stock set up and 37's.

 

[043500]

I ran a D44 before my 60. On 36 IROK's and the doubler. 203/205 I broke it 3 times out of the 6 times I went wheeling that year. It was upgraded to Yukon shafts and joints and never broke again. If I were to keep to 37's I'd run a D44 with RCV's on a stock set up. If you went with a D60 you would loose clearance at the diff but it would be damn near unbreakable with the stock set up and 37's.

Did you run the 30 spline outers or 19 spline?

That's another question...I know the 30 spline outers are stronger...but at what cost to have them?

I've thought about RCV's but then I think I have to go to 30 spline outers and inners no matter what and by that time I'm approaching D-60 cost anyway.

I really don't see myself going over 37's ever...hell I tried to get 35's but got such good deal on the 37's I figured what the hell. It works well and I'm happy with the whole setup...just trying make it as bullet proof as possible.

 

[Ghost]

Did you run the 30 spline outers or 19 spline?

That's another question...I know the 30 spline outers are stronger...but at what cost to have them?

I've thought about RCV's but then I think I have to go to 30 spline outers and inners no matter what and by that time I'm approaching D-60 cost anyway.

I really don't see myself going over 37's ever...hell I tried to get 35's but got such good deal on the 37's I figured what the hell. It works well and I'm happy with the whole setup...just trying make it as bullet proof as possible.

19 spline outer yukon cromo axle shafts and joints. I was running 4:1 doubled with the 4.0L auto. The beauty of the whole 60 side is once you get it and gear it you are done with those tires. Is your current axle high steer with flat tops? Down size to the 60 is IF you want to fix the ground clearance you can but you'd have to have the axle shaved. :gee:

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

I broke multiple 19 spline Yukon stubs. almost all of them in Harlan. all on 36" IROKs with a 4.0, auto, and regular NP231

 

[Ghost]

I broke multiple 19 spline Yukon stubs. almost all of them in Harlan. all on 36" IROKs with a 4.0, auto, and regular NP231

Tim also broke an RCV at Harlan one year too. But he was on 37 Treps.

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

Tim also broke an RCV at Harlan one year too. But he was on 37 Treps.

He's done this twice. He also has 5.43 gears, an atlas 5.0, a manual, and bounces off the rev limiter. A 60 would have broke too.

 

[043500]

Yeah that's my biggest argument with myself...if I go 60...I should be pretty much done. I think other than drive shafts and the D-300 grenading I'm done with upgrading the driveline. And my drive shafts are much stronger than stock...plus I already have a brand new spare rear and plan to have a spare front built this year. As for the D-300...I'm basically waiting for it to explode. If it does...I'll rebuild it or go atlas. If it doesn't then that's even better.

Of course...and again...this is all moot right now. My current jeep budget is about 38 cents!

I finally have a rig I do not plan to get rid of and has proven itself (at least to me) 3 years in a row at Harlan...now it's time to get it to where I can do the scary stuff if I want to without too much concern for damage. (yes I know...damage is ALWAYS possible)

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

stuff it with chromos and see what happens. it sounds like its done pretty well with stock shafts so far.

 

[Ghost]

stuff it with chromos and see what happens. it sounds like its done pretty well with stock shafts so far.

X2!

 

[043500]

Alright I quit arguing with myself and bit the bullet and bought a D-60.

After trying several times locally to get a 60 I found one out of state...WAY out and will have it shipped to me within the next week. The shipping sucks BUT it's no more $$ than the few I found "locally" by the time I spent the fuel money to drive to get one.

Now the fun begins.


gears, locking device (probably go spool for now since I'm already welded up front), rebuild the kingpins and the brakes if needed. High steer arms and a stout diff cover\, axle u-joints, new drag link (can cut down my current tie rod for this), new tie rod, track bar bracket at the axle, u-bolts and plates, I'm sure there's more...

I will eventually go to hydro assist BUT this year was much easier to steer than I anticipated so I can wait at least 1 more year.

Now I just hope I don't get inchitis and want bigger than 37's!

 

[POLAR_JEEP_04]

4Deez time!!!

 

[Ghost]

Alright I quit arguing with myself and bit the bullet and bought a D-60.

After trying several times locally to get a 60 I found one out of state...WAY out and will have it shipped to me within the next week. The shipping sucks BUT it's no more $$ than the few I found "locally" by the time I spent the fuel money to drive to get one.

Now the fun begins.


gears, locking device (probably go spool for now since I'm already welded up front), rebuild the kingpins and the brakes if needed. High steer arms and a stout diff cover\, axle u-joints, new drag link (can cut down my current tie rod for this), new tie rod, track bar bracket at the axle, u-bolts and plates, I'm sure there's more...

I will eventually go to hydro assist BUT this year was much easier to steer than I anticipated so I can wait at least 1 more year.

Now I just hope I don't get inchitis and want bigger than 37's!

I run a lock right..... served me well so far.

 

[043500]

I run a lock right..... served me well so far.

Depending on which carrier it comes with so it's either lockright...or if I have to buy a carrier for the 5.13's I'm going spool. It's a stock dodge 60 so chances are it's 3.55 in which case I'll need a carrier.

My 10 bolt is welded so I know what to expect if I spool it.

 

[Ghost]

Depending on which carrier it comes with so it's either lockright...or if I have to buy a carrier for the 5.13's I'm going spool. It's a stock dodge 60 so chances are it's 3.55 in which case I'll need a carrier.

My 10 bolt is welded so I know what to expect if I spool it.

I ran my 4.10 geared welded front and rear 60's for a year before I went with 5.38's. The carriers aren't that bad if you can get a used one. East Coast Gear Supply sometimes has them. I'd look on eBay too.

 

[lt99ls1]

Depending on which carrier it comes with so it's either lockright...or if I have to buy a carrier for the 5.13's I'm going spool. It's a stock dodge 60 so chances are it's 3.55 in which case I'll need a carrier.

My 10 bolt is welded so I know what to expect if I spool it.

You can buy a thick 5.13 gear and use the stock carrier. I have ran thick 5.38s, lock right and stock carrier twice. This time around I am using thick 5.13s and welded stock carrier.