Operation Overcompensation

GSequoia said:
Get a tank for a motorcycle air ride seat - check out HD stuff.

I know I'm way behind here, but I bet Avery hasn't gotten an air tank yet. I followed a local guy here and tapped the end of a small propane tank...you know, the disposable ones...to a pipe fitting and it works great for a small reservoir for ARB use. :) Jeff
 
Jeff 98XJ WI said:
I know I'm way behind here, but I bet Avery hasn't gotten an air tank yet. I followed a local guy here and tapped the end of a small propane tank...you know, the disposable ones...to a pipe fitting and it works great for a small reservoir for ARB use. :) Jeff

Thanks Jeff but I am going with a front detroit now :wave:
 
This finally came in:
FileHandler.ashx


And I should have them assmebled on this soon:

FileHandler.ashx


A couple of small parts are missing and IU am going to swap out the Tera drive flanges for some Warn flanges.
 
cracker said:
This finally came in:
FileHandler.ashx


And I should have them assmebled on this soon:

FileHandler.ashx


A couple of small parts are missing and IU am going to swap out the Tera drive flanges for some Warn flanges.

Your post is worthless without weights.

& what's with all thoses superflous bearings, wheel hubs & spindles:laugh3:

P
 
xXJx said:
But will you have it ready by november?

Probably not since I am focusing on getting the XJ tubed and chopped. :D
 
Paul S said:
Your post is worthless without weights.

& what's with all thoses superflous bearings, wheel hubs & spindles:laugh3:

P

Paul, I looked at them yesterday and I think that you can cross drill them without sacrificing too much structural strength :D
 
Damn Paul :exclamati :exclamati :exclamati

FileHandler.ashx


FileHandler.ashx
 
that thing sure is stylin! :D

wanna gimme thoes metal tail light boxes? I had to re-apply some more clear plastic tape to hold on the pieces of my current tail light box...
 
XJ_ranger said:
that thing sure is stylin! :D

wanna gimme thoes metal tail light boxes? I had to re-apply some more clear plastic tape to hold on the pieces of my current tail light box...


They are yours (less the lamps) in a month or so

Finish the pedal project?
 
djblade311 said:
when did you cut the cab?

Last night. It was easier than removing the rear hatch so I left it all intact and pulled the sawzall out.
 
cracker said:
They are yours (less the lamps) in a month or so

Finish the pedal project?
yeah

Got an A

thanks.

I need an address to get that back to you...


Or ill trade you the tail light boxes for the pedal @ XJ Jambo on the lake bed?
 
XJ_ranger said:
Or ill trade you the tail light boxes for the pedal @ XJ Jambo on the lake bed?

Works for me

Congrads on the 'A' but weren't you supposed to run the product by me before you submit. I am a product manager :laugh:
 
cracker said:
Works for me

Congrads on the 'A' but weren't you supposed to run the product by me before you submit. I am a product manager :laugh:
we ran outta time, and just submitted what we came up with...

Ill make some jpeg files of our complete design, and then clutter your buildup thread some more!

here is an exploded view of the assembly...
We speced the same spindle as the pedal you sent us, and the cleat on top uses the same 3 hole pattern common to the Shimano SPD pedals...
assembly.bmp


Here is a view of the cleat its self -
note the dome cutout in it, and the unidirectional nature of it allowing an easy step in, straight down like the speed play pedals you run -
cleat.jpg


Here is a shot of the body of the pedal -
note the dome extrusion, mirrored on the cleat for easy alignment... the wedge on the bottom of the pedal would be on a screw assembly to screw in and out and preload the springs which push on the blocks that engage the cleat for an adjustable tension to be set for rider preference...
pedal.jpg


an exploded view of the whole assembly -
exploded.bmp


after all that material - it should weigh about the same as your current speedplay pedals...

that is what I came up with...
 
I see the possibility with a slightly narower cleat to allow for lateral float but I don't see any provision for rotational float. MOST pedals today have a minimum of 3-5 degrees of rotational float.

Otherwise it looks good.
 
get back on topic, crackers JUNK is the subject
 
cracker said:
I see the possibility with a slightly narower cleat to allow for lateral float but I don't see any provision for rotational float. MOST pedals today have a minimum of 3-5 degrees of rotational float.

Otherwise it looks good.

there could be a little play associated with the cleat and the way you cut it that would allow for 3-5* of float - that is a straight cut cleat...

obivously we would make options of different float cleats...
 
XJ_ranger said:
there could be a little play associated with the cleat and the way you cut it that would allow for 3-5* of float - that is a straight cut cleat...

obivously we would make options of different float cleats...

Also, I remember telling you to design the cleat so it is easy to walk on :lecture:

I'm just picking on you. Looks good though.

I was thinking that you may be able to remoce the spring mechanism all together and replace it with some type of elastomer. and then change out the elastomer with ones of different durometer in order to make it harder/easier to get in and out.
 
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