Operation Overcompensation

cracker said:
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Tomorrow's goal is start the rear axle and bend/flare the hard lines for the brakes.

When do you clean and detail the engine bay?
 
Clean-RC said:
Looking good Avery.. If you don't mind me asking what front spindles are you using with I am assuming the ford front hubs and rotors??

Funny you should ask......

After about 10 PMs between Goatman and I, it ended up being Chevy Spindles, Chevy length stubs (I run Warn alloys), a Ford outer Timken Bearing, and a Chevy inner Timken bearing on Ford Rotors. It is odd that now it is easier to get the outer C-clip onto the stub easier AND it spins a lot smoother than it ever did with the complete Chevy setup.

And again, I owe a thanks to Goatman.
 
gcurtis said:
When do you clean and detail the engine bay?

Only web wheelers do that. Use it more than once a year offroad and it looks like this ;)
 
cracker said:
Only web wheelers do that. Use it more than once a year offroad and it looks like this ;)

Hey man, I even detail the under carriage after a good rain; there is no excuse for lazy. :) A clean heep is a happy heep; not only that but it makes my working on it a ton easier.

Like Bubba told you in jail, "Soap that thing up, skippy!"
 
gcurtis said:
:) A clean heep is a happy heep


For the last ten years I have dealt with customers who had that mentality and day in and day it was was proved wrong (on bikes). They wash and wash and wash and get water, degreasers, and solvents in places that would reak havoc on parts. Since then I have not adopted that though process.

Unless I did a crazy mud ride (we live in SoCal :dunno: ), I would wash my bike anually. I'd even have the red moad dirt on there for months at a time. I only had a clean and well lubricated chain.

I have since adopted this way of thinking on the Jeep. I do though, keep the inside nice and clean ;)
 
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Kejtar said:
which one are you running? ZJ?

Yup. But I think the dual diaphram brake nooster should make a huge difference.
 
gcurtis said:
A clean heep is a happy heep; not only that but it makes my working on it a ton easier.
The main thing it does is allow you to find the leaks easier. Notice, I didn't say fix them, only find them.

-Mike
 
cracker said:
For the last ten years I have dealt with customers who had that mentality and day in and day it was was proved wrong (on bikes). They wash and wash and wash and get water, degreasers, and solvents in places that would reak havoc on parts. Since then I have not adopted that though process.

Unless I did a crazy mud ride (we live in SoCal :dunno: ), I would wash my bike anually. I'd even have the red moad dirt on there for months at a time. I only had a clean and well lubricated chain.

I have since adopted this way of thinking on the Jeep. I do though, keep the inside noce and clean ;)

Ah, the bike is different. I only wash that sucker when it weighs too much or I can't find it hidden in the bushes because it looks like the rest of the dirt (trail scouting sometimes requires a ditching of bikes).

BTW, I was off road ten times in 05, and I'm not talking fireroads. I counted. :)
 
gcurtis said:
BTW, I was off road ten times in 05, and I'm not talking fireroads. I counted. :)

So sensitive. :laugh3:

If I didn't see you out there, you wern't out there :D
 
gcurtis said:
Same goes for you, bitches. :D

Hey, going with your theory, does it mean you don't wash your underware for fear of holes?

I don't wear underwear :wierd:
 
cracker said:
Funny you should ask......

After about 10 PMs between Goatman and I, it ended up being Chevy Spindles, Chevy length stubs (I run Warn alloys), a Ford outer Timken Bearing, and a Chevy inner Timken bearing on Ford Rotors. It is odd that now it is easier to get the outer C-clip onto the stub easier AND it spins a lot smoother than it ever did with the complete Chevy setup.

And again, I owe a thanks to Goatman.

Ok I have the Chevy early spindles but they look too damn short for the ford hub/rotor combo... Do you rememeber if the spindle is long or short?? I have all the timken bearings for the ford, but what year on the inner chevy... I am also curious as to what the measurement is from the wheel mount on the rotor to the inner "C" ??? Thanks...
 
Clean-RC said:
Ok I have the Chevy early spindles but they look too damn short for the ford hub/rotor combo... Do you rememeber if the spindle is long or short?? I have all the timken bearings for the ford, but what year on the inner chevy... I am also curious as to what the measurement is from the wheel mount on the rotor to the inner "C" ??? Thanks...

HEre is the PARTSMIKEPARTS chart:

spindles.jpg


I have the Dana 44 small bearing spindle. I use the Length 9.94 in.; 19 Spline; 297X/760X U-Joint Warn Outer Stubs. I had to use the Chevy inner bearing (with much surprise to Goatman) because the Ford bearing would NOT slide onto the spindle (too tight). The Ford rotor was fine and the inner seal was great too. I used the ford outer bearing as well. It went together really well and spins great. Again, a lot better than the complete Chevy set up I had before. Unfortunately I do not have the Timken bearing number for the inner but I THINK it was for a 1980 Blazer.

If you want to come over and tear into it let me know. I think you are qualified ;)

Clean-RC said:
I am also curious as to what the measurement is from the wheel mount on the rotor to the inner "C" ??? ...


I don't know how you would like me to measure this. Give me a little more details.
 
gcurtis said:
I knew that was coming. So much for breakfast.


And you knew that is the standard reply for the any underwear comments and you still went there :rolleyes:
 
cracker said:
I don't know how you would like me to measure this. Give me a little more details.

I was thinking that would help me out with my over all wsm~wsm measurment.. I am looking for a total of 61" so what ever the outer wsm to inner "C" at the axle tube is would tell me if my tubes are in the ball park without having to mock the whole front end up... since I forgot to take measurments of your housing while it was here...
 
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