Oil Pump Rant:

Slo-Sho said:
And if you claim to be a wise man, then it surely means that you don't know.:doh:

Never said I knew it all, and if you can't take reasonable suggestion then wise will you never be....
We lost a very expensive 396 BBC engine to a high volume oil pump causing the oil to stay on top of the heads and starving the engine of oil. I've also seen cases of the distributor gears being worn off, and more than a few ford oil pump drive rods being snapped in half. I also have talked to many high performance engine builders in my area and am friends with some of the most respected engine machinists in this area. I can't go to the local dragway without someone grabbing me and telling me story on story about the cars my dad help build in the 70's and 80's. I've read several books on engine building and concentrated on the oiling system to build the best motor for my camaro and my friends ford off road truck. Question me if you'd like, but I'm pretty sure I've asked the people who'd know best and have a decent idea about what I'm doing.


oh yeah, dont turn this into a name calling match, offer definitive proof to disprove me, something that I can study for my self, and if you can prove to me its a good idea to stress out your timing system and pump more oil through the system than the engineers who designed it said it needed, we'll go from there.
 
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The way I see it, you give conjectural suppositions while I give real world experiences. Do you even know the % increase in volume for the Melling HV pumps over the standard oil pumps? You have shown no proof of any damage to the 4.0 due to the use of a high volume oil pump whether it be long or short term damage. I take comfort in the fact that my high volume oil pump provides more oil splash to the camshaft as well as moves more GPH through my oversize oil filter. Yes, you're right, it is my rig that I've been driving for over 6 seasons straight daily and I will do what I please regardless of what you think is a 'reasonable assumption'.
 
terryd said:
You are not the first or the last to call me an ass..... If you don't like what I have to say, its your life and your jeep, do what ever you like. Its my informed opinion that a high volume oil pump is a dangerous thing and if you feel like taking your chances, so be it. I really don't care what you think of me, or my opinion. And yes, inexperienced, now a little childish.....

You'll get no argument from me (at least, not on the original topic. I don't know you personally, so I can't weigh in on anything else...)

Can a HV or HP pump be a good thing? Yes, if it's needed. If it's not, there are better things to spend your money on.

If you plan on installing a HV oil pump in an otherwise stock engine, here's hoping you've got the block and head stripped down so you can clean up the cast surface - to improve drainback. Else, you run the risk of starvation (as Terry mentioned.)

My mechanical experience? I started doing engine work when I was six, and was building engines by the time I was nine. My uncle has a Corvette collection - he hated doing engine work, and his son wasn't really "into" it. I'd stay out there for a few weeks, and we found out I actually enjoyed doing precision engine work. I grew from that into building engines for bracket racers and some "pull" engines (truck pulls,) and I also worked on industrial equipment for a while (and if you want to see engines that are just plainly abused, work on generators, forklifts, and heavy trucks for a while. I've seen some amazing things...)

So, I can't claim "race team" experience (I'd not mind - just haven't had the opportunity,) but I like to think I know what I'm about. I don't know everything (a sure way to admit that you know nothing is to say you know everything!) but I've got a good handle on things, and I know where to find most of the rest. Anything else I'll sort out from what I can find.

Yes, high oil delivery volume or high delivery pressure can accelerate wear - unless your engine is built to need it. A turbocharger is a very good example of "needing" a high volume oil pump - turbos need loads of oil circulation to keep from "coking" the oil. Most superchargers are able to run "dip/splash" lubrication these days - worst case, you plumb it into your oiling system anyhow and you need to make sure it gets a constant supply of fresh oil (again, high volume.) A need for a high pressure oil pump is agreeably rare - most times, you have trouble due to low volume with some mods.

Even if you're built to make effective use of high oil volume, you're still well advised to clean up the cast surfaces of the block and head to improve oil drainback - you don't need a mirror finish, but the "sand-cast" surface just plain sucks for drainback. It's amazing just how much oil you retain on the surface of the casting, and how long it stays there...
 
Slo-Sho said:
Do you even know the % increase in volume for the Melling HV pumps over the standard oil pumps?

20% according to melling. click the 20 for the webpage. I wish you the best of luck with your engine and hope that you have good service out of it.


Slo-Sho said:
And that is all that is, an opinion

:twak: really? thought it was a fart..... come on man, I'm trying to be civil with you, I could very easily called you incompetent, and I didn't because I dont think you are. You are questioning me and I accept your disapproval of my opinion, I've argued the point with several, and convinced a few. I just tend to agree with the experts I have at my disposal, that's all. We can start a thread for you to :rattle: in if you'd like, but this is a civil thread. Take what you will from it.
 
terryd said:
We lost a very expensive 396 BBC engine to a high volume oil pump causing the oil to stay on top of the heads and starving the engine of oil.
That sounds like a problem with the oil return passages.
Had you actually seen the 4.0 head oil returns you would know that this isn't a problem, we're not talking chebbies but Jeeps correct?

I've also seen cases of the distributor gears being worn off, and more than a few ford oil pump drive rods being snapped in half.
Not on the 4.0 I6 though?

I also have talked to many high performance engine builders in my area and am friends with some of the most respected engine machinists in this area.
Yeah, I know people too.

I can't go to the local dragway without someone grabbing me and telling me story on story about the cars my dad help build in the 70's and 80's. I've read several books on engine building and concentrated on the oiling system to build the best motor for my camaro and my friends ford off road truck. Question me if you'd like, but I'm pretty sure I've asked the people who'd know best and have a decent idea about what I'm doing.
So you talk to a lot of people, so do I.

oh yeah, dont turn this into a name calling match, offer definitive proof to disprove me, something that I can study for my self, and if you can prove to me its a good idea to stress out your timing system and pump more oil through the system than the engineers who designed it said it needed, we'll go from there.
You're the one coming in here on your high horse calling folks incompetent and inexperienced. You offer this BB proof that high volume oil pumps cause engine failure on the 4.0, this is YOUR thread. I have just serviced my engine and I have checked for timing chain stretch, on my single roller silent drive timing chain I can assure you there is no noticeable wear from the high volume oil pump which would manifest itself as chain stretch. Once again I give real world experiences from a daily driver, you give statements that are about as well written as you are uninformed.
 
5-90 said:
You'll get no argument from me (at least, not on the original topic. I don't know you personally, so I can't weigh in on anything else...)

Can a HV or HP pump be a good thing? Yes, if it's needed. If it's not, there are better things to spend your money on.

If you plan on installing a HV oil pump in an otherwise stock engine, here's hoping you've got the block and head stripped down so you can clean up the cast surface - to improve drainback. Else, you run the risk of starvation (as Terry mentioned.)

My mechanical experience? I started doing engine work when I was six, and was building engines by the time I was nine. My uncle has a Corvette collection - he hated doing engine work, and his son wasn't really "into" it. I'd stay out there for a few weeks, and we found out I actually enjoyed doing precision engine work. I grew from that into building engines for bracket racers and some "pull" engines (truck pulls,) and I also worked on industrial equipment for a while (and if you want to see engines that are just plainly abused, work on generators, forklifts, and heavy trucks for a while. I've seen some amazing things...)

So, I can't claim "race team" experience (I'd not mind - just haven't had the opportunity,) but I like to think I know what I'm about. I don't know everything (a sure way to admit that you know nothing is to say you know everything!) but I've got a good handle on things, and I know where to find most of the rest. Anything else I'll sort out from what I can find.

Yes, high oil delivery volume or high delivery pressure can accelerate wear - unless your engine is built to need it. A turbocharger is a very good example of "needing" a high volume oil pump - turbos need loads of oil circulation to keep from "coking" the oil. Most superchargers are able to run "dip/splash" lubrication these days - worst case, you plumb it into your oiling system anyhow and you need to make sure it gets a constant supply of fresh oil (again, high volume.) A need for a high pressure oil pump is agreeably rare - most times, you have trouble due to low volume with some mods.

Even if you're built to make effective use of high oil volume, you're still well advised to clean up the cast surfaces of the block and head to improve oil drainback - you don't need a mirror finish, but the "sand-cast" surface just plain sucks for drainback. It's amazing just how much oil you retain on the surface of the casting, and how long it stays there...

Very well put!!! There is a need for the HP pump due to the law of "objects in motion tend to stay in motion" as applied to the piston/connecting rod in high RPM engines (over 7000 RPM in my "opinion" again). It helps to keep the bearing from striking the crank journal at these higher RPM's and causing bottom end failure.

Cleaning up the drainback system on an engine is a very good idea. I spent a day with a die grinder cleaning casting flash out of my camaro motor and opening up the front and rear drainback ports in the cam galley. I also plugged the holes in the galley that drain back over the crank to help eliminate the oil from striking the crank, and added a windage tray to "scrape" the excess oil off the crank at the higher RPM's it shifts at.


Slo-Sho, I'll admit it, I've never built or serviced a 4.0L Jeep motor internally, this is due to the fact that the engineers designed them well enough that I've never had to get into mine. (I'm assuming it has an oil pump, never been in the oil pan). You can scream till you're blue in the face, if you're trying to get me mad it won't happen. I'm sure you know people, who know people, who've talked to people. You've also not proven that the HV pump offers any added benefit, seeing as how stock pumps can last 300,000 in these motors without having problems, I dont see the need to waste money on something that's apparently (according to the "how many miles does yours have" threads I've read) not needed....
 
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Slo-Sho said:
You're the one coming in here on your high horse calling folks incompetent and inexperienced.

I don't actually like horses. More of a Camaro/Jeep guy right now..... But if you think I'd like horses better, I may give them another try!
 
terryd said:
Slo-Sho, I'll admit it, I've never built or serviced a 4.0L Jeep motor internally, this is due to the fact that the engineers designed them well enough that I've never had to get into mine. (I'm assuming it has an oil pump, never been in the oil pan).
Now the truth comes out. No mass production engine is designed well enough that it cannot be improved upon.

terryd said:
You can scream till you're blue in the face, if you're trying to get me mad it won't happen.
Who's screaming? Do not impose your emotions onto my statements.

terryd said:
I'm sure you know people, who know people, who've talked to people.
You're the one spouting off all the people you know.

terryd said:
You've also not proven that the HV pump offers any added benifit, seeing as how stock pumps can last 300,000 in these motors without having problems, I dont see the need to waste money on something that's apparently (according to the "how many miles does yours have" threads I've read) not needed....

And you have not proven that high volume oil pumps are detrimental to the 4.0 as you so vehemently claim. Oh yeah, the high volume oil pump is cheaper than the standard pump, so there goes your theory on cost.
 
terryd said:
Very well put!!! There is a need for the HP pump due to the law of "objects in motion tend to stay in motion" as applied to the piston/connecting rod in high RPM engines (over 7000 RPM in my "opinion" again). It helps to keep the bearing from striking the crank journal at these higher RPM's and causing bottom end failure.

Cleaning up the drainback system on an engine is a very good idea. I spent a day with a die grinder cleaning casting flash out of my camaro motor and opening up the front and rear drainback ports in the cam galley. I also plugged the holes in the galley that drain back over the crank to help eliminate the oil from striking the crank, and added a windage tray to "scrape" the excess oil off the crank at the higher RPM's it shifts at.


Slo-Sho, I'll admit it, I've never built or serviced a 4.0L Jeep motor internally, this is due to the fact that the engineers designed them well enough that I've never had to get into mine. (I'm assuming it has an oil pump, never been in the oil pan). You can scream till you're blue in the face, if you're trying to get me mad it won't happen. I'm sure you know people, who know people, who've talked to people. You've also not proven that the HV pump offers any added benifit, seeing as how stock pumps can last 300,000 in these motors without having problems, I dont see the need to waste money on something that's apparently (according to the "how many miles does yours have" threads I've read) not needed....

Thank you - that's why I'm writing books now.

I forgot to mention one thing tho - the production AMC six usually doesn't see the far side of 4500rpm at the crankshaft, unless it was owned by Barney Navarro (who raced a modded AMC199 at Indy...) So, the starvation issue would be reduced - but it's still something to watch out for. It's also made up for somewhat by the fact that we have a six-quart sump, instead of the regular four or five (and I'll not even wander into the differences between a "wet-sump" system and a "dry-sump" system - that's a whole new can of worms. Murphy's Law sez "The only way to re-can a can of worms, once opened, is to use a larger can.")

Oh - and FYI, the AMC six (199/232/242/258) has an oil pump that is driven by a tang on the bottom of the distributor shaft. No ancillary oil pump drive shaft. Consider yourself edified.:dunce:

One principal element of the longevity of the AMC six has to do with the alloy used to cast them - it's a high-nickel cast iron, similar to the alloy used in the second-generation Chrysler Hemi engines. The increased nickel content results in a tough alloy that's not too hard - but it's tougher than the hinges of Hell, let me tell you. I lost the oil pump (OEM) in my 1987 ~220Kmiles. When I opened up the engine to see about servicing it, there was a ridge of .0005" (one side - .001" total) at the top of the cylinder, vice the more usual .007-.010" I've seen at that mileage on most other engines.

Sadly, Chrysler decided to reduce the nickel content of the alloy starting in 1991, along with lightening the casting (for NVH reasons. I don't understand that - if you want a quiet ride, get a Caddy or a Lincoln!)

What I said about cleaning up the cast surface to improve drainback still applies - since pretty much all production engine blocks are sand-cast (it's cheaper,) the surface sucks. I'd like to see investment cast engine blocks and cylinder heads, but it's not going to happen - sand can be cleaned and reused, while the "lost wax" investment casting process results in just that - lost wax. Can't reuse the casting blanks... Too complex to die cast engine blocks at the moment as well - at least, in a single piece.

But, that's a pivotal issue that you probably didn't consider (since your experience is with high-RPM racing engines) - the AMC six is horribly subject to potentially destructive crankshaft harmonics (can snap the crank and/or cam) in the 6Krpm band - but most of these engines don't see the far side of 4500, they redline at 5000, ChryCo did a crank limiter at ~5300 or so (I don't recall exactly - may be 5500,) and they make best power and best cruise down around 2300-2800rpm anyhow. I'll touch redline in my rig about twice a year - just to check. However, I know my rig lives down around 2000-3000 rpm. This is due to the design of the engine - not the way I drive. You just don't need to run the thing any faster (unlike a SB racing engine - that spins around 6000-8000rpm. Or a balanced and tuned Wankel, which can turn 16-18krpm all day long.)

The AMC six also has relatively large oil drainback passages - as Slo-Sho mentioned. This doesn't mean I want to take chances, but the design and operation of the AMC six is rather forgiving. However, if it works, I don't see any need to fix it - and, like you, I've got just enough bad experiences that I don't want to play with it. Granted, quite a few people have put in HV oil pumps without incident - it works for the reasons stated above. (Advantage to having worked on damn near everything - from a three-horse one-cylinder Briggs on up...) AMC engineers did a good job, so I just don't feel the need to mess with what works.

Unless, of course, I want to make it work better!
 
:clap: And I'll probably never know if they are detrimental through personal experience because its $70 I see as a waste. The fact does stand that the OEM pumps are good enough for a 5500 RPM, torque monster of a motor that will run for 300,000 miles without problem. (probably 200,000 is a more realistic average) Now that you've managed to point out that, while my opinion is based in the varied experience of me, my father, and the individuals of the local high performance crowd, its not based on using one in the 4.0L jeep L6, can I have my thread back?

as for added cost, you have the stock one that's most likely not worn out of factory tolerances=free and free<$70
 
terryd said:
And I'll probably never know if they are detrimental through personal experience because its $70 I see as a waste.
as for added cost, you have the stock one that's most likely not worn out of factory tolerances=free and free<$70

Let me get this clear, when you rebuild a motor you re use the stock oil pump that came with it? :twak:
 
Slo-Sho said:
Lol, ok here man...have your thread back my girl just got home.

ah, sweet man! Thanks, kinda missed it! lol... yeah, I do re-use stock parts when I can, especally when they are well within acceptable tolerances. Proven rather than purchased.
 
That was entertaining.:cheers: Sure wish i had TRNDRIVERS little popcorn munching smiley.

Terryd don't know you or slo-sho from adam, but in all fairness to him you did start the name calling with the "incompetent" statement in post #1 and that kinda put me off. Your post was good until what appears to be my stuff don't stink statement. As you can see from my name I work engines (BIG engines, not outboards) and my question to you from post #1 is how does oil drawn from the sump up through the hi-volume pump and then evacuated through the relief valve cause hot oil? or significant (or measureable) heat to make a difference in these small engines?

Jon, respectfully disagree, if the oil is staying up in the heads causing starvation, the problem is more than a non-polished casting. Probably varnish, shellac & gunk from poor oil maintenance in the past. that's a lesson from my history:dunce:

:peace:
Tom
 
5-90 said:
Thank you - that's why I'm writing books now.

I forgot to mention one thing tho - the production AMC six usually doesn't see the far side of 4500rpm at the crankshaft, unless it was owned by Barney Navarro (who raced a modded AMC199 at Indy...) So, the starvation issue would be reduced - but it's still something to watch out for. It's also made up for somewhat by the fact that we have a six-quart sump, instead of the regular four or five (and I'll not even wander into the differences between a "wet-sump" system and a "dry-sump" system - that's a whole new can of worms. Murphy's Law sez "The only way to re-can a can of worms, once opened, is to use a larger can.")

Oh - and FYI, the AMC six (199/232/242/258) has an oil pump that is driven by a tang on the bottom of the distributor shaft. No ancillary oil pump drive shaft. Consider yourself edified.:dunce:

One principal element of the longevity of the AMC six has to do with the alloy used to cast them - it's a high-nickel cast iron, similar to the alloy used in the second-generation Chrysler Hemi engines. The increased nickel content results in a tough alloy that's not too hard - but it's tougher than the hinges of Hell, let me tell you. I lost the oil pump (OEM) in my 1987 ~220Kmiles. When I opened up the engine to see about servicing it, there was a ridge of .0005" (one side - .001" total) at the top of the cylinder, vice the more usual .007-.010" I've seen at that mileage on most other engines.

Sadly, Chrysler decided to reduce the nickel content of the alloy starting in 1991, along with lightening the casting (for NVH reasons. I don't understand that - if you want a quiet ride, get a Caddy or a Lincoln!)

What I said about cleaning up the cast surface to improve drainback still applies - since pretty much all production engine blocks are sand-cast (it's cheaper,) the surface sucks. I'd like to see investment cast engine blocks and cylinder heads, but it's not going to happen - sand can be cleaned and reused, while the "lost wax" investment casting process results in just that - lost wax. Can't reuse the casting blanks... Too complex to die cast engine blocks at the moment as well - at least, in a single piece.

But, that's a pivotal issue that you probably didn't consider (since your experience is with high-RPM racing engines) - the AMC six is horribly subject to potentially destructive crankshaft harmonics (can snap the crank and/or cam) in the 6Krpm band - but most of these engines don't see the far side of 4500, they redline at 5000, ChryCo did a crank limiter at ~5300 or so (I don't recall exactly - may be 5500,) and they make best power and best cruise down around 2300-2800rpm anyhow. I'll touch redline in my rig about twice a year - just to check. However, I know my rig lives down around 2000-3000 rpm. This is due to the design of the engine - not the way I drive. You just don't need to run the thing any faster (unlike a SB racing engine - that spins around 6000-8000rpm. Or a balanced and tuned Wankel, which can turn 16-18krpm all day long.)

The AMC six also has relatively large oil drainback passages - as Slo-Sho mentioned. This doesn't mean I want to take chances, but the design and operation of the AMC six is rather forgiving. However, if it works, I don't see any need to fix it - and, like you, I've got just enough bad experiences that I don't want to play with it. Granted, quite a few people have put in HV oil pumps without incident - it works for the reasons stated above. (Advantage to having worked on damn near everything - from a three-horse one-cylinder Briggs on up...) AMC engineers did a good job, so I just don't feel the need to mess with what works.

Unless, of course, I want to make it work better!

I like the way you write and would enjoy reading your books on this subject if you cover it! I was relatively sure they didn't have a drive rod like the chevy and ford engines due to my experience in auto parts sales, but thanks for concreting that for me! I have heard of the harmonics problem as I did some research on a stroker motor for a friend of mine, and dont like to have mine revved up really high if I can help it. Thanks for the lesson on the block make up, I had some questions about that! I also don't see a reason to stray from the stock pumps in a low RPM engine, or my higher performance engines. I'm looking forward to doing a stroker in the future if I see the need for one in my XJ or if my friend ever decides if that's the road he wants to take. Information from people like you is very helpful in making choices for engine builds, and is the method I've used for all my builds in the past. There are too many people who have "been there, broke that" to try to go at an engine build blindly.
 
Boatwrench said:
That was entertaining.:cheers: Sure wish i had TRNDRIVERS little popcorn munching smiley.

Terryd don't know you or slo-sho from adam, but in all fairness to him you did start the name calling with the "incompetent" statement in post #1 and that kinda put me off. Your post was good until what appears to be my stuff don't stink statement. As you can see from my name I work engines (BIG engines, not outboards) and my question to you from post #1 is how does oil drawn from the sump up through the hi-volume pump and then evacuated through the relief valve cause hot oil? or significant (or measureable) heat to make a difference in these small engines?

Jon, respectfully disagree, if the oil is staying up in the heads causing starvation, the problem is more than a non-polished casting. Probably varnish, shellac & gunk from poor oil maintenance in the past. that's a lesson from my history:dunce:

:peace:
Tom

yeah, I messed up on the incompetent statement, I'll admit that. Its a pet-peeve of mine and I tend to get testy about it. I'm sorry for that. However, oil being run through the by-pass is a loss of energy, and a loss of energy where the oil is being run through a restriction (ie bypass passages) creates excess heat and wastes the power of the engine. Hydraulic systems have similar heat production problems and alot of pumps are now variable out-put, where-in they can stop moving oil when no flow is needed. Again, I am sorry about the "high and mighty" tone at the first. The only defence there is that I usually come across like that, and I've had some friends make the comment that "I thought you were an ass-hole till I got to know you." I've tried to change, but It seems to be a scotch-irish thing as my mom, dad, and brother all have the same problem. Sorry!
 
I will side with Slo-Sho..I didn’t and don’t like the tone of the original poster, And for everyone that had a opinion on what using a HiVol pump would do to Slo-Sho's engine here is what the manufacture of said HiVol pump says to those myths about dist gears and drain back issues ect.. That was posted.
I have never ever seen an engine damaged by a correctly functioning Standard, HiVol or Hi Pres pump. Even when they ran heavy weight oils.


http://data.melling.com/Tech pdfs/HIGHVOLUMEPUMPS.pdf

http://data.melling.com/Tech pdfs/PRESSUREVSFLOW.pdf
 
Comanchedude said:
I will side with Slo-Sho..I didn’t and don’t like the tone of the original poster, And for everyone that had a opinion on what using a HiVol pump would do to Slo-Sho's engine here is what the manufacture of said HiVol pump says to those myths about dist gears and drain back issues ect.. That was posted.
I have never ever seen an engine damaged by a correctly functioning Standard, HiVol or Hi Pres pump. Even when they ran heavy weight oils.


http://data.melling.com/Tech%20pdfs/HIGHVOLUMEPUMPS.pdf

http://data.melling.com/Tech%20pdfs/PRESSUREVSFLOW.pdf

Again, sorry about the tone, it was unintended. I do not see how increased flow would be needed for a rebuilt engine in stock trim turning 5300-5500 RPM max. Yes, they had a very good analogy with the faucets and all, but its like they said, a properly clearance engine at stock RPM's have no demand for more volume or flow, so why stray from the stock pump? The analogy with they SBC 350 is a good one as well, accept for the fact that Chevrolet engineers used a stock flowing pump with an updated pressure relief spring in the 6500RPM capable LT1 in the early 70's. Melling makes and sells the same pump, a M55A. Also, its moving 20% more oil, stands to reason it would take at least 15% more power to turn. In the off road world, a 36" tire is 20% larger than a 30" tire. I'm pretty sure it takes more power to turn a 36 than a 30. They also made the point that the 427 used 125 psi of oil and a stock gear and that pressure is the measured of the resistance. So when the HV pump creates more pressure at lower RPM's that means it is putting more resistance on the timing system and using more power to turn the pump to create that added pressure.
 
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Boatwrench said:
That was entertaining.:cheers: Sure wish i had TRNDRIVERS little popcorn munching smiley.

Terryd don't know you or slo-sho from adam, but in all fairness to him you did start the name calling with the "incompetent" statement in post #1 and that kinda put me off. Your post was good until what appears to be my stuff don't stink statement. As you can see from my name I work engines (BIG engines, not outboards) and my question to you from post #1 is how does oil drawn from the sump up through the hi-volume pump and then evacuated through the relief valve cause hot oil? or significant (or measureable) heat to make a difference in these small engines?

Jon, respectfully disagree, if the oil is staying up in the heads causing starvation, the problem is more than a non-polished casting. Probably varnish, shellac & gunk from poor oil maintenance in the past. that's a lesson from my history:dunce:

:peace:
Tom

True - if the oil is staying up in the heads long enough to cause starvation, there are probably more underlying causes than a simple sand-cast surface - which is why I don't like to "cheap out" on oil either. Granted, I'm sure the adhesion caused by trying to drain over a sand-cast surface doesn't help any - slowing circulation tends to increase crap buildup. But, you're quite correct - there are other factors also at work (it's mainly an issue if you're running a light sump - four or five quarts in a relatively large engine. I've also wondered just how imports can do so well with four-quart sumps - I've never been comfortable with that idea myself. That could be just me, tho - and I've seen sumps going the other way. Like 22 quarts on a Caterpillar 3208, for instance. Nothing compared to what you work on, tho!:laugh3: )

As far as the heat issue from oil blowing out the relief - I'm wondering about that myself. I know that there will be some measurable increase in head just from going through the pump (friction and compression,) but how much can it really be? If it were significant, how could we say that a purpose of oil is the cooling of parts - even without an external oil cooler? I don't think it's that significant - and it's fully negligible, given the volume that is likely to be going through the relief vice the volume circulating through the engine and getting really heated up. Granted, I'm in no position to experiment at the moment, but I've seen it in hydraulics - and hydraulic fluid that blows out the relief valve is close enough to ambient temperature as makes no odds, overall.

Your thoughts, Tom?:conceited
 
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