Oil Pressure Question

I've used fram filters combined with pennzoil for years and have 136k on my jeep so far no problems. oil and filters seems just like car brands, everyone has there favorites.
 
after all the evidence presented if anyone is still stubborn enough to continue using fram you might as well switch to penzoil since its the same filter and a buck cheaper. personally I think I'll continue spending a buck or two more for something that doesn't restrict oil flow, has metal end caps vs cardboard, nearly double the filter media area, and a drainback valve that isn't plastic and actually works, cheap insurance IMO ;)
 
FoMoCo said:
after all the evidence presented if anyone is still stubborn enough to continue using fram you might as well switch to penzoil since its the same filter and a buck cheaper. personally I think I'll continue spending a buck or two more for something that doesn't restrict oil flow, has metal end caps vs cardboard, nearly double the filter media area, and a drainback valve that isn't plastic and actually works, cheap insurance IMO ;)
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Wow, they make a Fram thats a buck cheaper, boy, as cheap as the construction on them is what else could they cheap out on to sell it for a buck less, thats scary.
 
I guess i didnt realize that FRAM filters were that cheap, maybe i will use something else, what is the best for the jeep.
 
jeeptx23 said:
I have always used Wix oil filter. They have an antibleedback valve in them. Frams do not.
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Thats not true, the Fram TG has a anti-drainback. The regular orange fram 3.50$ filter has none.

I find the Pure One filters to be way to restrictive, it sounds funny but it just filters too well. The last time I used one on my XJ, PSI at operating temp and 45 MPH went from 45-50 to 65-70. Thats not good. I'd rather have one that lets more past and flows better, than a filter that clogs after 1000 miles. Its Fram Tough Gaurd, Mobil One, and standard Purolator filters for me. No Fram Extra Gaurd (They are the same as Pennziol), QuakerState or Bosch, they are not worth the metal and paper they are made of. Just cheap junk.
 
mpncsnhs said:
I guess i didnt realize that FRAM filters were that cheap, maybe i will use something else, what is the best for the jeep.
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If your using Synthetic oil, I suggest spending 4 dollars more and buy a Mobil 1 filter. They are very well built and they work really well with Mobil 1 high millage oil. For me, thats the best combo. If not Mobil 1, I use Valvoline Max Life, with a Fram Tough Gaurd fiter (Not all Fram filters are bad, just 90% of them), and have had no problem. Other than the fact I hate SM rated oil, its fine. The Mobil 1 High Millage oil is SL rated, with more ZDDP.
 
So a FRAM tough guard is alright then, and no i dont use syn oil, I use whatever is abundand at the local parts store, sometimes pennzoil sometimes havoline.
 
mpncsnhs said:
So a FRAM tough guard is alright then, and no i dont use syn oil, I use whatever is abundand at the local parts store, sometimes pennzoil sometimes havoline.
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Yes, IMHO Fram Tough Gaurd filters are fine. Thats what I use with conventional oil, have never had a problem.
 
RichP said:
Wow, they make a Fram thats a buck cheaper, boy, as cheap as the construction on them is what else could they cheap out on to sell it for a buck less, thats scary.
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no its the same components and build quality (if you can call it that :passgas:) just a yellow paint job instead of orange and your not paying for the brand name, see the link I posted earlier ;)

btw your new avitar makes me lol every time :roflmao:
 
BillBraski said:
Yes, IMHO Fram Tough Gaurd filters are fine. Thats what I use with conventional oil, have never had a problem.
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I had a bet with a friend that the Fram filter had a cardboard anti-drainback valve. We cut open both a regular Fram and the TG. They were identical inside and both had a cardboard flap for the checkvalve.

I stopped using the Frams when I noticed it took longer for the oil pressure to come up. They also seemed to plug up and drop the oil pressure after a few thousand miles, whereas the Napa Silver (aka Wix) didn't do that. For peace of mind I spend the extra buck at a locally owned Napa instead of ChinaMart.
 
FoMoCo said:
how 'bout this
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html
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Extract from report:

Hydrostatic Burst PressureSince I cannot test this myself, I have removed this data.SAE J806 Filtration EfficiencySince I cannot test this myself, I have removed this data.SAE J1858 Filtration EfficiencySince I cannot test this myself, I have removed this data.


By his own admission, he is only looking at things he can see. He has eliminated all of the SAE filtration tests. Without a more scientific evaluation of the filter media efficiency and how it works in real life, all we have is one person's opinion. You may remember that at one time you could buy an oil filter that used toilet paper for the media. That would have a much greater surface area than any of those discussed but it still wouldn't be any good.

One of the major complaints about Fram filters is the glued-on end caps. This is only an issue if they fail. You could make them out of titanium and they would be stronger but it really wouldn't matter in the real world.

It is also incorrect to state that they don't have an anti-drainback valve. According to this test, both of the Frams have nitrile rubber valves, the same as the highly-rated NAPA Gold, Wix, and Mobil 1.

It still seems that if they were as bad as we all seem to think there would be a huge class action suit for all of the engines being destroyed.
 
Last edited:
KLRTom said:
It still seems that if they were as bad as we all seem to think there would be a huge class action suit for all of the engines being destroyed.
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Exactly. Like Quaker State oil in the 70's when 100's of engines failed and they had to pay tons of money in a class action suit.
 
KLRTom said:
It is also incorrect to state that they don't have an anti-drainback valve. According to this test, both of the Frams have nitrile rubber valves, the same as the highly-rated NAPA Gold, Wix, and Mobil 1.

It still seems that if they were as bad as we all seem to think there would be a huge class action suit for all of the engines being destroyed.
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True. Filter media surface area is somewhat indicative of total filter capacity. For the PH8 filter, the Fram had nearly half of the filter surface area as the Wix. That tells me it'll plug up sooner. What I want to know is whether it will plug up faster that I do my oil changes?
 
I use the mobil m301 filter and currently have the M1 10w40 high mileage oil in there(AA didn't have any 10w30 hi-mi at the time) and the PSI stays 50-70. It was 5-10 psi lower when I had the non-syn 10w30 in there, so next change I'll go with the 10w30 hi-mi.
 
I found a good use for the Fram filters I had left in my inventory, PAPER WEIGHTS on my desk! So far non of them have damaged my paper work, LOL.party1:

I wont use anything other than K & N filters now. All the others scare me too much, even more than RichP's avitars, LOL. I like to sleep at night! I also use the larger 1 quart filters now.
 
Ok so i changed my oil. Didn't change filter (dont ask why, i totally forgot to do it) so i drove it for a couple days. The other morning i started it up, gauge read about 55. drove off and stayed at 55 parked it at biscuitville and got my food, came back out and it would stay right above 40. The next day i drove it, drove it about 7 miles to work and at idle it would stay at about 25-30 and then while cruising it would stay at 50-55. Then today i started it up, went to about 55 and then started driving around and dropped a little, maybe 2-3 lbs. while driving it would stay at about 50. Parked it at work and checked it at idle and it was at about 30 psi. After work, i started it up and was reading about 48 and then started driving and it was reading about 52. As i got closer to home it was reading more along the lines of 40-43 and would drop down to about 22 at idle. Im wondering if my filter might be clogged or just need changing or if this is my Sending unit? ive seen where when the unit is bad, they peg out or read 0. so im trying to figure out whats going on here.
 
I would change the filter. Don't forget to top the oil back off when you do.
 
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