Oil pan installation...at a loss

[1990JEEPXJ]

No...I'm trying to avoid doing that, but I will if I have to

i can almost guarantee it will let the axle fall more. its only four bolts on the axle side. just keep an eye on the brake lines if you do

 

[samger2]

I was just kind of afraid those bolts would snap...and I don't really want to snap them until I do my lift next year haha

 

[ParadiseXJ]

I was just kind of afraid those bolts would snap...and I don't really want to snap them until I do my lift next year haha

Go ahead and snap them off if they're too rusty to re-use. Replace with Grade 8 bolts and nuts from the hardware store. It'll cost you about $3.00
Better yet swap them out with stainless steel bolts, never a rust problem again.

 

[Sidewinder CC]

This has turned out to be the absolute worst job I've ever undertaken on this vehicle. I simply cannot get the oil pan back on.
2000 XJ

samger2,

I've been thinking of doing my rear main seal next summer, but after reading this thread I'm not sure.

Just one question: How did you get the oil pan off?

 

[xjtrailrider]

I've read that some people use a couple zipties on the corners of the gasket to keep it in place then once the bolts are in a little, cut the zipties off. Should solve the gasket issue

Thats what I do. I have never not been able to get the pan back in a XJ whether its lifted or not, there is plenty of room. Not sure what you are running into?

 

[timberwoof]

The biggest mistake tha folks make with sealant is that too much is used. If it squeezes out of the outside of the engine, it just looks bad. However, it it is poking out the exterior, it is also squeezed out in the interior. So what you ask? The stuff can and does degrade and fall into the engine. I picked up the 98 for a song as it had multiple issues. Overheating (surprise!) being one of them. After I replaced the radiator, I cracked it open and found RTV scraps plugging the inlet side obstructing the flow. As I always replace the Tstat with a radiator change (why not, cheap part) I was not surprised to find a huge amount of RTV lurking.

So, when I use sealant, I put it on with my finger. A very light coat (just enough to see it) across the entire mating surface. When I install the part, I torque the fastener barely past finger tight and wait for the sealant to set. Then I torque to spec. The result? Never any sealant spludge. Also no leaks. Things like RTV and for that matter, superglue (for printed circuit board repair) were first created for use by the military. I was trained by the USAF way back in 71 on how to use the stuff.

Here is what the FSM has to say about the pan:
1. Disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle.
3. Drain the oil. (really?)
4. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the manifold.
5. Disconnect the the exhaust hanger at the catalytic converter and lower the pipe.
6. Remove the starter.
7. Remove the flywheel and transmission TC housing access cover.
8. If equipped, disconnect the level sensor.
9. Position a jack stand under the the engine vibration dampner.
10. Position a piece of wood (2x2) between the jack stand and the vibration dampner.
11. Remove engine mount through bolts.
12. Using the jack stand, raise engine until adequate clearance is obtained to remove the pan.
13. Remove the oil pan bolts. Carefully slide oil pan to the rear. If equipped with level sensor, take care not to damage the sensor.

So, Jeep has you removing the starter and disconnecting the front half of the exhaust for clearance as well as disonnecting the exhaust. I can only assume that the proceedure is written with having the vehicle on a drive on lift in mind. Also Jeeps idea of a jack stand is what exhaust shops use to install systems. I suppose we would need to use a floor jack.

For installation, they recommed that 4 alignment dowls be made from 1.5" 1/4-20 bolts. Cut the heads off and slot them for ease of removal later. Install two dowels in the timing cover and the others at the back of the block. They also say to use the one piece gasket, putting it onto the block first and then install the pan.

Torque specs:
1/4 bolts are 84 inlbs.
5/16 bolts are 132 inlbs.

Hope this helps.

Oh, I do believe that you will need another gasket as lumpy RTV never seals...

With this method, If you life the engine up with a hoist and had the jeep on stand so the suspension hangs and full travel, will it work best?

 

[Mike Mike]

Hav'nt done my 4.0 yet, but in the old days we'd tie the pan gasket to the pan thru the bolt holes with silk thread and just leave the thread in.

 

[amcjeep]

I tried jacking the front axle up...didn't do anything to help. I do have the felpro gasket.

One question I have...I thought I was at a point where I could install the pan, so I put the RTV on, put the gasket on, then tried to install the pan...of course it didn't work. Now I have a mess of dried RTV on my pan and my gasket...obviously I can scrape it off the pan, but not the gasket...did I ruin my gasket? Will I have to buy a new one, or am I ok just adding more RTV to the gasket when it's time?

why are you putting rtv on a felpro rubber gasket? just use the breadties at the corners and on the sides. if you want some help tacking to the pan, get some hi tack at the parts store. the fel pro gasket will seal better without being covered in crap.

 

[Shorty]

X2^^

I think the box even says "perma-Dry"-- install dry.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

you should only put a dab of RTV on the corners. the directions that come with the gasket tell you exactly where.

 

[Dragonslayer]

I have been planning to replace my RMS and oil pump sometime later this year. Do all
of these oil pan hassles apply to 2WD cars, too? I figure that not having a front diff should
make oil pan clearance less of an issue ...but might I be wrong on this?