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oil filter adapter gasket

FYI for others...the last two times i've done this job, the o-ring set has cost me $3-4 and some change. One of the VERY few things I will go to the dealer for. Cost me more in gas to get it than the stupid parts!!!
 
The only problem with going to the dealer for these is that the ones from the dealer are the ones that fail.
I suspect that this is a design issue, rather than a materials issue, and I wouldn't worry too much about it. I replaced the 95's at something like 200 thousand miles. My 99 is beginning to leak non-critically at 249K. If I bother to do it at all (mostly to save the starter from oil), I doubt I'll have to do it a second time in the life of the vehicle.
 
All the old OFA gaskets I have replaced were flat, hard, and snapped easily when bent, not round, soft and pliable, as they are when new.
 
Problem is with the type of o-rings that are in the kits (OEM or aftermarket). They are not designed for long term use in oil/heat environments. If you can cross reference the size/diameter of the o-rings, get Viton ones, which are specifically designed for this type of use. Should be the last ones you will ever buy.
 
Got in Himmel!

SEALS are maintenance items, just like brakes, coolant, lubricants, filters, spark plugs, and so on.

Cheap a** OFA o-rings that last as long as they do have to be the best bargain on an XJ.
 
Got in Himmel!

SEALS are maintenance items, just like brakes, coolant, lubricants, filters, spark plugs, and so on.

Cheap a** OFA o-rings that last as long as they do have to be the best bargain on an XJ.
OFA o--rings and 4WD light switches trailing a few yards behind. It's hard to think of what else on an XJ is a bargain, but we'll take them when they come.
 
Speaking of 4wd light switches--today I replaced various dash/console bulbs that were blown in my buddy's 96. The part time light was fine but doesn't light up, so I guess it's the switch?
 
Speaking of 4wd light switches--today I replaced various dash/console bulbs that were blown in my buddy's 96. The part time light was fine but doesn't light up, so I guess it's the switch?
Probably. It's pretty easy to check, if you get under. Pull the connector and put an ohmmeter to the switch, or alternatively pull the connector and short the connector on the vehicle side with a little piece of wire or a paper clip. If the light lights, it's the switch.
 
Update: I picked up my o-rings at the dealer for 8 bucks and some change. Tonight I replaced them and was done with the job in under 30 minutes. Here's what I learned:

Punched the T-60 hex out of the socket and taped it to a 1/2" open end wrench.

Disconnected the battery due to proximity to hot starter terminal.

Slowly removed the oil filter while allowing the oil to spill into a pan. Maintained half of the old oil in the filter.

Tried desperately to loosen the torx bolt. Gave up.

Used the handle of the hi-lift jack to loosen the torx bolt (from the top). Used care to not damage anything, which is unusual for me.

Climbed under Jeep (I really, really enjoy this 5.5" lift) and removed the oil filter adapter bolt. Promptly drained a few ounces of hot oil on my shirt as the loosened adapter rotated downward.

Removed the bolt and adapter. Swapped old dry o-rings with new rings that were soaking in fresh oil.

Climbed back under the Jeep and installed the adapter bolt and oil filter adapter. Ensured the adapter was properly keyed with the roll pin. Torqued to 75 ft lbs. (sure I did).

Installed the oil filter that was half filled with oil. I'm cheap that way.

Topped off oil.

Reconnected battery.

Tested for leaks and oil pressure. 50 lbs of pressure noted.
 
Its Miller Time!
 
Well, finally switched out my OFA gasket today!

14MM hex bolt confirmed for my 93' 4.0HO. Ended up needing a sledge and a 18MM deep socket to dislodge the 14MM from it's 1/2 inch socket casing. Taped it to a half inch wrench and then added the 1.5ft bar from my hydraulic jack to get the leverage to loosen it:)

after getting it off and replacing the gaskets, dropped the 14MM hex BEHIND the upper control arm bushing (Stock). So that was fun to get back out lol!

tightened everything back up, spun on my new WIX filter dropped in 6 qts of 10W30, turned it over and reveled in the absolute lack of oil seepage from the OFA....

Until i saw that the RMS is now confirmed leaking! However, 4 drops after sitting long enough to cool down is fine by me for now!

Went to align the toe-in and watched in dismay as my tie-rod shifted a solid 2 inches up and down (in the ball joints on both sides) :(

I guess that is what is causing all the play in the steering:) time for the ZJ tie rod upgrade:)

Anyone ever wants to borrow a 14MM hex, 60 torx, 9/16 hex. PM me and i will USPS the bit to you!
 
If I bother to do it at all (mostly to save the starter from oil), I doubt I'll have to do it a second time in the life of the vehicle.

So oil is bad for the starter? I figured it protected it from corrosion and mud :laugh:.

Mine leaks but not too bad, maybe 1/2 quart in 10k miles, so I just ignore the drops. But if it really is bad for the starter I'll put o-rings on my to-do list.
 
So oil is bad for the starter? I figured it protected it from corrosion and mud :laugh:.

Mine leaks but not too bad, maybe 1/2 quart in 10k miles, so I just ignore the drops. But if it really is bad for the starter I'll put o-rings on my to-do list.
The starter guy who just rebuilt mine says too much oil is bad for the bushings (gear reduction starters have a couple extra of those).
 
Before I learned of the existence of the OFA o-rings, I was mystified at how my starter could be leaking oil. The good news is my starter is now bone dry. As am I. (Until tonight, cuz it's Tuesday, baby!).

But I digress. Starters do not leak oil unless adequately saturated with oil from the OFA.
 
i found a set of o-rings at my o'reilys and it comes with multiple sizes and it was only 4 bucks and it comes with 2 larger ones and 4 small ones and 2 steel gaskets..its not brand specific but i think its gonna work cause it seems to be the same size as the ones i have seen and then i will have another spare set just in case one of the new ones blow again...now i just have to do but cant get the adapter off and its a 9/16 allen key but i cant get it to turn
 
i found a set of o-rings at my o'reilys and it comes with multiple sizes and it was only 4 bucks and it comes with 2 larger ones and 4 small ones and 2 steel gaskets..its not brand specific but i think its gonna work cause it seems to be the same size as the ones i have seen and then i will have another spare set just in case one of the new ones blow again...now i just have to do but cant get the adapter off and its a 9/16 allen key but i cant get it to turn

I was lucky. I bought my o-rings at the dealer for a bit more than you paid, but I got some punctuation to go with them.

You may have better luck removing the oil filter adapter bolt by using a T-60 hex bit, as described above. That bolt is torqued to about 80 ft lbs, and an allen wrench will probably bend or break by then. If you use the T-60, you will need to punch it out of the socket first. Then use a wrench on it, and possibly a hollow bar or tube (like a Hi-Lift handle) for leverage.

Good luck. Don't break anything.
 
My starter and battery leads up to the starter are so completely saturated in oil at this point, i am leery of cleaning it/them for fear of wrecking the obviously delicate balance of oil and metal LOL.

at any rate, one week after OFA gasket change, my engine is starting to dry out nicely. Once i get it a bit more cleaned up, i will tackle cleaning the starter off and replacing the battery leads.
 
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