I have a 93 with a 4.0 and an automatic and have a couple strange issues.
Every now and then after startup it won’t rev past 1000 rpm. It hits 1000 and drops very quickly back down to idle (around 500) then revs back up quickly. It’s like hitting hard rev limiter, happens very quickly load or no load for a short time (30-60 secs or so). If you floor it it will go away quicker than if you let it idle.
Next issue is a lack of power until you find the perfect accelerator pedal spot. You have to hunt for it but it’s there about mid throttle (seems like same spot every time). It’ll go from Suzuki samurai power to real 4.0 power once you find that spot. It’s not a down shift or a transmission slip. No sounds when it happens.
Won’t rev past 4000 99% of the time. It wouldn’t EVER go past 3800 rpm until I changed the FPR.
A good amount of the time it takes a couple try’s to get it to start from cold.
It has a misfire every now and then. Maybe once every couple mins.
I’ve changed:
CPS (it was bad and caused other issues)
TPS (no change, but it was a crappy orielly brand and did ohm out well but didn’t try to see how smooth it changes)
FPR (after changing it went past 3800rpm to 4000 with it going to 5000 once)
Cap, rotor, wires and plugs
Fuel pump (original went bad. The new one was once again orielly, Napa is only other store on island and they close earlier).
Cleaned IAC
I also ordered rebuilt injectors today.
I think that’s all I’ve changed. I’ve been troubleshooting for awhile. I didn’t know how horrible orielly was until I changed 4 new vw starters, 2 new fuel pumps in three different cars (including the current Jeep) I got from them.
My thought about the throttle issue is the TPS but I don’t know how much influence it has on the fuel map.
I think the rpm limit is due to a lack of fuel... it will pop when it hits 4000 and when it does the 1000 rpm thing. Figure injectors are old..
I’m planning on replacing the o2 sensor next. Figure it’s old and couldn’t hurt.
Trouble is I live on a remote island in Alaska and have to have just about everything shipped to me. I want to make sure I’m going in the right direction so I’m not waiting a month because I missed something silly but I don’t have a disposable income to just order everything under the sun.
Every now and then after startup it won’t rev past 1000 rpm. It hits 1000 and drops very quickly back down to idle (around 500) then revs back up quickly. It’s like hitting hard rev limiter, happens very quickly load or no load for a short time (30-60 secs or so). If you floor it it will go away quicker than if you let it idle.
Next issue is a lack of power until you find the perfect accelerator pedal spot. You have to hunt for it but it’s there about mid throttle (seems like same spot every time). It’ll go from Suzuki samurai power to real 4.0 power once you find that spot. It’s not a down shift or a transmission slip. No sounds when it happens.
Won’t rev past 4000 99% of the time. It wouldn’t EVER go past 3800 rpm until I changed the FPR.
A good amount of the time it takes a couple try’s to get it to start from cold.
It has a misfire every now and then. Maybe once every couple mins.
I’ve changed:
CPS (it was bad and caused other issues)
TPS (no change, but it was a crappy orielly brand and did ohm out well but didn’t try to see how smooth it changes)
FPR (after changing it went past 3800rpm to 4000 with it going to 5000 once)
Cap, rotor, wires and plugs
Fuel pump (original went bad. The new one was once again orielly, Napa is only other store on island and they close earlier).
Cleaned IAC
I also ordered rebuilt injectors today.
I think that’s all I’ve changed. I’ve been troubleshooting for awhile. I didn’t know how horrible orielly was until I changed 4 new vw starters, 2 new fuel pumps in three different cars (including the current Jeep) I got from them.
My thought about the throttle issue is the TPS but I don’t know how much influence it has on the fuel map.
I think the rpm limit is due to a lack of fuel... it will pop when it hits 4000 and when it does the 1000 rpm thing. Figure injectors are old..
I’m planning on replacing the o2 sensor next. Figure it’s old and couldn’t hurt.
Trouble is I live on a remote island in Alaska and have to have just about everything shipped to me. I want to make sure I’m going in the right direction so I’m not waiting a month because I missed something silly but I don’t have a disposable income to just order everything under the sun.