**NWChapter Random Thoughts Thread***

If one was to go the full leaf spring route(front and back) how would one go about doing a shackle relocation box for the front?

You wouldn't. You do a shackle relocation on the rear because you have to make do with the factory mounts, in the front you would set them where you want them when you build the mounts so there would be no reason to relocate them.
 
You wouldn't. You do a shackle relocation on the rear because you have to make do with the factory mounts, in the front you would set them where you want them when you build the mounts so there would be no reason to relocate them.

Got a point, just day dreaming of a 90'-93' chop top with Chevy leafs up front, Mj bastard pack rear and 1tons with either 37" or 39" tires. Hoping to do this for a second Cherokee. As a full out play toy and keep the one I have now as my DD/expedition rig
 
That Brandon I think from upper Washington did with great success. His flexed like mad, didn't have problems of springs falling out and the need to limit travel.

Leaf springs rule!
 
He also took it all out and went back to links.

And then scrapped it all and linked a YJ.

Who says leafs won't flex.
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I will have them on my Jeepster. The only problem with leaves is eventually they sag out.

They do if you don't set them up right. Bump stops are the leaf springs best friend. I know it's limiting up travel but will increase down on the other side. From what I have read inverting and wrapping a leaf is the worst thing for it.

I bumped mine at about 3" of up travel with iirc a 14+" travel shock in the front. It will droop until the shock stops the spring. And will collaps the other side till the spring is just flat.

Flex is over rated anyway, That what lockers are for.
 
Leafs are fine unless you over-flex them (no bumpstops does this usually) - you want to keep the bending they see well within the range that doesn't permanently deform them. Bumpstops and maybe a traction bar and you can run some really flexy leafs without sagging them too quick.
 
Ya I've ran with the yota guys before(some I've told this too) and they always ran leafs so I'm use to that and I like them since on steering it gets a lot more simple and ya if bump stopped properly they perform just fine, never needed super amount of flex.
For a rig that's a DD and expedition, I know links and leafs do best but for a straight trail rig/toy I think full leafs will do just fine and perform great.
 
There's no doubt that links are superior to leafs but for ease of steering, and handling/knowing how it handles is what I like. Links you have to do geometry, pan hard bar/track bar with the steering to avoid bump steer. Coils will always push out wards while leafs will both pull and push(side hilling comes to mind) then there is the sway bars you have to work in because links like to roll way easier than leafs. Kinda like at the camp out when torx,gold cobra, and I did the v notch, me and torx didn't have an issue but gold cobra did because his wanted to lean so badly.
Basically I know if I go 1tons, the set up will be much easier and simpler to do than doing links. I know the size of tires and axles, the weight on the leafs will do just fine articulating and handle fine.
 
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So you want to downgrade to an inferior system because its easier to set up?

I can see someone wanting link/leaf over link/link but leaf/leaf on a rig that didn't come that way doesn't make sense to me especially when the rig was link/leaf to start with.

Sure it will work but it would be like pulling off your EFI in favor of a carburetor.
 
There's no doubt that links are superior to leafs but for ease of steering, and handling/knowing how it handles is what I like. Links you have to do geometry, pan hard bar/track bar with the steering to avoid bump steer. Coils will always push out wards while leafs will both pull and push(side hilling comes to mind) then there is the sway bars you have to work in because links like to roll way easier than leafs. Kinda like at the camp out when torx,gold cobra, and I did the v notch, me and torx didn't have an issue but gold cobra did because his wanted to lean so badly.
Basically I know if I go 1tons, the set up will be much easier and simpler to do than doing links. I know the size of tires and axles, the weight on the leafs will do just fine articulating and handle fine.

The XJ works so wonderfully because of the link/leaf setup they come with. I have seen YJ's linked up front with a stretch using XJ leafs SOA rear to mimic the performance of an XJ.

You may find this funny, but there are TJ guys that convert to rear XJ leafs SOA for the same reson. Stability.

I am using the term XJ leafs loosely. Some run them some don't. Some use custom Alcan some use 60+ inch Chevy or even fiberglass aero van leafs.

In all reality the XJ would be the perfect all around offroader if it were not for the unit-body construction. I know in the real world cars with full ladder frames will also destroy them selves with what we throw at them in time. But in the end, they guy with a frame can just replace parts. The guy without will have to start over from fresh.
 
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