Northeast set-up?

[copperhead]

this may be opening a can of worms, but what do any of you North Atlantic members prefer as a vehicle set-up.

Some background:

I reciently picked up a stock 1987 Laredo 4.0 from a friend who moved to Texas and couldn't take it with him.

Everything seems to be running fine, but the rear squats quite a bit. The leaf springs sagging beyond being flat. I would like to stick as stock as possible, but want to hit some trails as well. I have taken our 2wd through more mud and washouts than some 4wd's, but it can get scary at times.

I plan on finding a good roof safari rack, as our current Thule soft bag tends to compress the roof when we hit a good sized bump. Tow mounts, skid plates, and a winch are on the plate, but I have to address the sagging springs first.

If a lift is a must, my thoughts are to incorperate new leaf springs into a lift, maybe 2". I have to replace the springs anyway, and it doesn't look llike much more. I know many say I'll end up wanting to go higher, but this vehicle will be a winter beater traveling 60 miles round trip to work, and will also need to make the 2,400 mile round trip to Atlanta to visit family.


Any thoughts appreciated.

Copperhead

 

[TOZOVR]

a nice close to stock XJ will take you many many places!!

You're on the right track, for sure.

I think we may have a set of stock XJ springs from one of our '99's around, I'll take a peek.

 

[sidriptide]

nice score on the new rig.. i have a 3" lift in my 99 daily driver and its really not too high at all and barely notice any difference in drivability... a winch will whack a full 1" off any lift as well so take that into consideration when you chose your springs... a 2.5" AAL in the rear and some 3" springs will sit at a nice height.. i dont know the quailty of their springs but i came across some "replacement " full leaf packs from skyjacker on QUADRATEC for a descent price but i dont remeber what it was now.... althought there are plenty of trals where a BIG lift is required, many can be seen with a smaller lift and careful driving..
mike

 

[Eagle]

IMHO there is no "preferred" lift around the NAC. We have people wheeling stock rigs all the way up to around 8" of lift. It all comes down to what you want, what you need, and what you can afford.

First, though, I think you need to define where you are. XJ leaf springs are designed to sit with a reverse (or 'S' shaped) arch. The fact that your springs appear to have sagged "byond flat" doesn't mean they have sagged.

Over the years, many people have measured many XJs. The consensus is that the "stock" height, as measured from the center of the wheel caps (axle centerline) to the bottom edge of the flares, is 17.5" in the front and 17.0" in the rear.

You can get a 2" budget boost with full-length AAL from Rusty's Off-Road for $99. Or you can "roll your own." Take apart a set of used XJ springs, cut the eyes off the end of the main leaves, and install them in your existing springs as AALs. That will lift you about 1-1/2" from where you are now (which will probably result in a net lift of 1" to 1-1/4" over "stock."

In the front, coil spacers come in 3/4" and 1-3/4" heights. For the proposed usage you described, and as a way of getting into it w/o spending a lot of money, I'd recommend doing the home-brew AAL in back and 3/4" spacers in front. Run 235/75R15 or 30x9.50R15 tires, and enjoy it. If you later decide to go higher, you haven't invested in a lot of stuff that will sit in a corner of the garage.

 

[copperhead]

Thanks for the input,

I will be doing this on a moderate budget, but want to do it right. I prefer to save and purchase quality components and am willing to wait if necessary. My other experience is with 1960’s era brit bikes, and I have found that most modifications beyond stock lead to trouble and headaches. The modifications often turn out to be unnecessary in the end. Don’t know if that works for XJ’s though, but may explain my aversion to doing too much. I also haven’t had much time to check it out in stock form. I would prefer to do that, but was worried about the rear springs.

I checked out the ride height on “Dollar” as my wife calls it and from the center of the hub to the bottom of the flair is currently 17.5”’ front, and 15” in rear. My wife’s 2wd 96Sport is running 17” front and 16” rear.

I’ll have to look further into some of the AAL systems. I looked at OME, RE, and Rusty’s, but wasn’t sure what all was needed to balance front and rear.

Thanks again,

Copperhead

 

[Eagle]

I checked out the ride height on “Dollar” as my wife calls it and from the center of the hub to the bottom of the flair is currently 17.5”’ front, and 15” in rear. My wife’s 2wd 96Sport is running 17” front and 16” rear.

I’ll have to look further into some of the AAL systems. I looked at OME, RE, and Rusty’s, but wasn’t sure what all was needed to balance front and rear.

You are at stock height in the front and down 2 inches in back. For you I recommend a Rancho full length AAL. It's rated at 2-1/2" in the XJ. Part number 60913. That will put you just about at stock height or a tiny bit over, and should ride very acceptably. The rear will then be balanced with the stock-height front. You should be able to buy that kit for around $65 to $75.

If you want to do it "more right," you could invest in a pair of new Up Country rear springs. But they run more than $100 each. They would put you about 1" higher than "stock."

 

[BrokenXJ]

Skid Plates

I would suggest Rusty's engine skid plate, and some rocker guards, and you will be amazed where that stocker will go!

 

[EMTJeepers]

Rancho AAL

I added a rancho AAL and a set of Daystar shackles to the rear of my 99. gave me three inches. Then put the daystar 3/4" spacers in the front. It's now a little taller in the back then front, but when I tow, it rides perfectly. Also for carring 'baggage' during vacation, it works out well. Cost me around 150.

 

[Eagle]

Re: Rancho AAL

I added a rancho AAL and a set of Daystar shackles to the rear of my 99. gave me three inches. Then put the daystar 3/4" spacers in the front. It's now a little taller in the back then front, but when I tow, it rides perfectly. Also for carring 'baggage' during vacation, it works out well. Cost me around 150.

To break that down, the Daystar shackles are good for 1" so the AALs were good for 2". That's about what Rancho claims (they say 2" to 2-1/2" in a Cherokee).

How's the ride? Still using stock shocks?

 

[EMTJeepers]

Used the stock shocks for about 1&1/2 years

Were not very comfortable. I went with Trailmasters for a 3" lift. They are better, except I have broken the shock bolts, and cannot get it out on the one side. So been doing one shock for about a year now. Pretty worn out.

Any ideas on how to fix the shock mount bolts? Both sides busted out in an Accident(XJ vs Tractor Trailer)(I think I won, but I had more damage??) was able to drill out the one side and use self tapping bolts to get the holes back, the drivers side has been tougher.

 

[TOZOVR]

Re: Used the stock shocks for about 1&1/2 years

Were not very comfortable. I went with Trailmasters for a 3" lift. They are better, except I have broken the shock bolts, and cannot get it out on the one side. So been doing one shock for about a year now. Pretty worn out.

Any ideas on how to fix the shock mount bolts? Both sides busted out in an Accident(XJ vs Tractor Trailer)(I think I won, but I had more damage??) was able to drill out the one side and use self tapping bolts to get the holes back, the drivers side has been tougher.

Get a drift (punch) and a good hammer and knock the nuts out of the upper mounts....they're just nuts pressed in (we use an air chisel)

Then take new bolts and feed them in from above with a split ring lockwasher (we usually tie a piece of solder aroun it to make feeding them through easier)

We literally punch those buts out of every XJ we deal with, weather they're seized or not...just makes it much easier to deal with down the road.

RJ

 

[EMTJeepers]

From what I remember

There didn't seem like there would be room to feed anything from the top??????? There are no problems tightening up the bolts once they are dropped into place? Would a carriage bolt work better?

 

[TOZOVR]

Re: From what I remember

There didn't seem like there would be room to feed anything from the top??????? There are no problems tightening up the bolts once they are dropped into place? Would a carriage bolt work better?

On the 97 Up there is enough room to feed the bolt and split ring lockwasher in if you have small hands (we make Mark do that part...small hands...smells like cabbage..carnie folk)

The lock washer will keep it from spinning.

if you can't feed the bolt in by hand, tie some thin wire or solder on and feed that through first...when it is in position, give it a yank and the wire comes off.

 

[EMTJeepers]

Sounds similar

To when I installed the hitch... I had to use wire to feed down the rails...

I'll give it a try...

Thanks!

 

[sidriptide]

i've drilled out the uppers on both my rigs... there is enough room (barely) to feed a bolt from the top and hold it with a long thin wrench while you tighten it.. i think one of the holes on one of them was too tight to put a bolt thru the top.... so i put the nut in with a long wrench.... if you searched the OEM tech forum you'd find plenty of reading on this topic...
mike

 

[Eagle]

Whether you drill out carefully and re-tap, or punch out the weld nuts and use new bolts, USE PLENTY OF ANTI-SIEZE

 

[Moto]

Re: Re: From what I remember

(we make Mark do that part...small hands...smells like cabbage..carnie folk)

Nice Quote RJ Thats one of my all time favs. Another option if you have access to a welder is to weld on some studs. On my 98 I wasnt able to tap out all the broken bolts, so on the ones that I couldn't save, I just mig welded on some exhaust studs. If I were to do it again I would do that all around. It takes way less time than any other method.

 

[CheapXJ]

or just take your rear swaybar endlink plates and weld them on rotated 90* from the bolt holes. puts the bushing in the correct line and then you can use eye to eye shocks for a wider and cheaper selection of shocks


oh, and a setup I've found that works VERY well around here.

I like stiffer springs and a shorter lift with LOTS of travel and the BIGGEST tires that I can force to fit under mj XJ.

I'm runnin 36X12.50 TSLs on the trail w/ approx 4" lift (prolly closer to 3" now) and still have room for 11" of shock travel. granted that there isn't much original sheetmetal left around the wheelwells and I've lost some leg room from re-shaping the floorboards (this would be impossible in something w/ a clutch as I had to even trim the side off my brake pedal to regain all its travel ) and If you need a backseat, you can't quite get away with tubbing out the rear end like I did either (YJ seat might fit, haven't tried it yet)

the thing about northeastern trails is that there's TONS of slick/offcamber stuff happenin. the soft tall flexy suspensions that work well in other areas can put you at a disadvantage in some situations. not to mention that since more effort is required on behalf of your right foot stability is what it's all about!!

 

[EMTJeepers]

Well the shock trick worked. I used an 18" extention from my socket set to punch out the nut, and then fed the bolt from the top using the same metal wire they gave me with my hitch install kit.

Thanks!!!!! :laugh3: