New Renix wiring harness

Curtis_H

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Central Iowa
Just wondering, im thinking of making a new wiring harness for my rig and was thinking about selling a few on the side. Ive already sourced all the connectors and whatnot and was probably going to add a few relays and a couple switches for some add ons in the process. Would there be much interest in this for anyone? No idea on prices or anything just gauging interest.
 
Also toying with the idea of remote doorlocks and remote winch control on a keyfob.
 
you make it CA smog legal, and i know you'd get customers! including me! (but not in the next couple months, but this is definately something i'd like to do in the long run)
 
you make it CA smog legal, and i know you'd get customers! including me! (but not in the next couple months, but this is definately something i'd like to do in the long run)

Your latest avatar is disquieting. Kind of like a kinky Wild Wild West. :D :D
 
you make it CA smog legal, and i know you'd get customers! including me! (but not in the next couple months, but this is definately something i'd like to do in the long run)

Since it wouldn't negatively affect the operation of the engine, and it would look at least similar to the OEM harness, I somehow doubt that most of the Smog "Techs" we're saddled with out here would be able to tell anything had happened - or that it wasn't an owner-built resto to clean up the wiring anyhow (especially since the newest RENIX wiring is now twenty years old.)

I plan on redoing my engine bay harness, using either CPCs or Amphenols, and cleaning it up into more logical subharness arrangement for ease of service. Damn sure won't look OEM, but I haven't found anything yet in CARB regs to say that it can't be done...
 
Your latest avatar is disquieting. Kind of like a kinky Wild Wild West. :D :D
...ok, but what does disqueting mean...?!? =)
I plan on redoing my engine bay harness, using either CPCs or Amphenols, and cleaning it up into more logical subharness arrangement for ease of service. Damn sure won't look OEM, but I haven't found anything yet in CARB regs to say that it can't be done...


with smog, i tend to ASSUME it wont be smog friendly, its good to hear it wont be that way.



i would ask what CPC's and 'amphenols' are, cause im clueless, sounds like differant kinda drugs to me

all i can say is DO IT, PLEASE. =)
 
"Amphenol" is a MIL-spec, metal-bodied, fully waterproof electrical connector available in a variety of configurations. It may be used for RF signals, low voltage signals, light power distribution, and the like. They can be free-hanging/cable-mounted or bulkhead-mounted and gasketed. This is a 19-circuit Amphenol, cable-mounted, and coated OD:

amphenol.jpg


"CPC" is a Circular Plastic Connector - similar to an Amphenol, but made with a plastic body and is not MIL-spec. However, it is usually slightly cheaper, and almost as durable and is still watertight. This is a 14-circuit female bulkhead-mount CPC:

206043-1-TYC-FNT-LRG.JPG


Caps can be had for bulkhead-mounted connectors - this is why I tend to recomment Amphenols or CPCs for routing power to a roof lightbar or light rack. This allows you to remove the lighting (for whatever reason) and seal off the connector so it doesn't get anything in it. The cap is retained (typically) by a short ball-chain tether, but I'm sure you can use something else. The tether is retained by one of the bulkhead mounting screws.

This is an example of a "dust cap" - it slips over the bulkhead fitting:

4473420.jpg


The dust cap is not watertight or weathertight. If you want that, you'll need this plug:

4473730.jpg


You'll note that the ID of the cap is threaded, and it screws onto the connector for a more positive seal. There is also a rubber gasket in the plug.

While it's possible to keep the weather plug in your glove box or spares box and not have it tethered to the connector, it is preferred that it is tethered - if it should come loose, you won't lose it (unless you've scrubbed the connector off of the bulkhead - in which case, you have larger problems.)

It is possible to get Amphenols/CPCs with mixed-size gage pins - the larger pins would be used for the power supply/distribution leads (up to about 10AWG, typically) and the smaller pins for signal distribution (usually 18-14AWG.)

I don't blame you for "assuming" that a given mod won't pass CA Air Police inspection - I find them onerous and silly myself (having dealt with them for the last twenty years out here...) However, I've also noted that CARB EO numbers are most often required on things that will affect airflow through the engine - exhaust systems, intake mods, camshaft mods, and cylinder heads. Internal parts will pass because they can't be seen, and most CA stroker owners have no trouble getting them to pass biennial emissions inspections - and they don't tell the Techs (they don't need to know anyhow.) You usually do have to tune the engine manangement somewhat - but most of what will want doing is monitoring the FAR while adjusting the MAP supply voltage to trim the fuel delivery - this is a gross adjustment, but it will make it easier for the HEGO to do its job of fine-tuning the fuel delivery. Given the way the HEGO responds to FAR variations, there's really a narrow band where the HEGO signal can trim fuel delivery - you'll have to get it close, and that's where the gross MAP supply voltage adjustment comes in to play. The adjustment may be easily done using a small circuit built around an LM317 adjustable +DC voltage regulator, which can be had at any electronics parts house. I won't go into detail on how to build the circuit - since it's been covered before (as a specific MAP application) online; and there are typically also circuit diagrams on the back of the card. It's a simple circuit, and it can be built in a few minutes with only a bit of skill.

Me being me (and therefore a perfectionist and detail-orientated,) I'd also add a wideband HEGO and a FAR monitor to allow me to monitor the effects of the MAP adjustment, and allow me to make future adjustments as required. Monitoring EGTs can also allow you to do this - but using a WHEGO as a FAR monitor is easier to read (I do want to put a six-cylinder pyrometer-based EGT monitor on as well, but that's more to detect variations between cylinders. I'd also eventually build a MegaSquirt controller - it's a fully-programmable DIY controller, and that would allow me to tune even individual cylinders a la a programmable late-model GM setup... You can look up MegaSquirt - filter using the developers' names: Bruce Bowling and Al Grippo.)

GLOSSARY
CARB - California Air Resources Board
EGT - Exhaust Gas Temperature
EO - Executive Order. The exemption number applied to "approved" parts by CARB
FAR - Fuel/Air Ratio
HEGO - Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor
ID - Inside/Inner Diameter
MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor
OD - Olive Drab (typical military-issue equiment colour)
RF - Radio Frequency
WHEGO - Wideband Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor

(I do this when I use a lot of abbreviations - I get tired of typing them all out longhand...)
 
Just wondering, im thinking of making a new wiring harness for my rig and was thinking about selling a few on the side. Ive already sourced all the connectors and whatnot and was probably going to add a few relays and a couple switches for some add ons in the process. Would there be much interest in this for anyone? No idea on prices or anything just gauging interest.

I would be interested in a new "painless wiring" style harness for my RENIX. Build in upgrades and keep the pricing reasonable and I'd think that you'd have more business than you could handle.
 
X2.

Look into becoming a vendor on here for sure, I'm currently looking into that for other wiring related stuff, though I've been too busy at work to put much time into the project.

If I may ask - where are you getting the connectors? I'm especially curious about the headlight wiring harness connector and the bulkhead connector. Headlight wiring harness connector is likely a standard one I just haven't found yet, but the bulkhead connector looks like it's a custom one.
 
...ok, but what does disquieting mean...?!?

disquiet - a feeling of mild anxiety about possible developments :cheers:
 
There are quite a few suppliers that carry the OEM style connectors. I like the amphenol style connectors but I think I will use the Deutsch or Molex style for my harnesses. I think they are a little better for weatherproofing. The harness would only carry the factory style connectors where they are required to connect to OEM sensors or the OEM harness. Other connectors will be upgraded. I was also considering sectioning the harness a bit as 5-90 said into more managable subsections. I was also going to incorporate an actual relay box instead of the tyco style relay sockets that are used currently, and also probably a better starter solenoid. But all of those things would be optional. On my harness I am going to move the diagnostic plug inside the cab so I can connect my scanner easier to test while driving. I will do some more research and see what I can come up with.
 
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