• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

new guy with drive shaft issues

id wait to shim your rear end until you decide to do the SYE. That said SYE is still something you should do regardless. As it reduces a lot of the strain on your output bearings and everything else along the line.
 
and the slip yoke, out about 1/4" fromk stock


while you're under there, make sure the slip yoke and driveshaft aren't still hitting each other-- it looks like they've "clearanced" themselves some, but unless they are free throughout the full range of motion, you've still got problems.
yeah i think that happened in the 12 or so miles i drove home before i did the transfer case drop. they're not hitting now. waiting for my next day off for tire balance and alignment. i guess that will be the real tell if i have any more vibes
 
id wait to shim your rear end until you decide to do the SYE. That said SYE is still something you should do regardless. As it reduces a lot of the strain on your output bearings and everything else along the line.

so if i dont do an sye what wears out? this isnt a DD, its a third car for our family, a toy really. will it eventually lead me to figuring out how to rebuild a transfer case? id like to do it right but its alot of money. anybody ever crack the junkyard code on the yoke needed to run a cv driveshaft? carolina drivelines has the 3103-27cv for $75 plus shipping but then id still have to find or make a seal, or swap to the newer style t-case(around $100 from local junkyard) if its a direct swap like ive heard
 
get ready for the punchline....you ready.... so im looking all over the internet pricing sye's and i get to thinking. i go out and check all the bolts that i took off for the rear lift and there all pretty tight still. i stand back to smoke a cigarette and guess what? i only have one lug nut holding on my right rear tire. apparently in the rush to get it back together it never got torqued. please make fun of me, i deserve it. i have no vibes up to 65 now. should i still shim my rearend or is it a matter of "if its not broke dont fix it" i still have that troublesome new leak at the transfer case tailshaft but i think thats mostly because the t-case drop tilted the t-case back some. any thoughts?

Im surprised your wheels are still ok. I had a case of slightly too long lug studs once and its destroyed the wheel in less than 5 miles

Its definitely not a "if its not broke dont fix it thing" because what you can end up breaking would ruin your day. extreme angles WILL wear out your U-joints (not a big deal really), but worst case is that it can crack the housing on the output shaft and definitely ruin your output shaft and pinion seals
 
Im surprised your wheels are still ok. I had a case of slightly too long lug studs once and its destroyed the wheel in less than 5 miles

Its definitely not a "if its not broke dont fix it thing" because what you can end up breaking would ruin your day. extreme angles WILL wear out your U-joints (not a big deal really), but worst case is that it can crack the housing on the output shaft and definitely ruin your output shaft and pinion seals
i got lucky and the one still on there was pretty tight. plus these old school "sawblade" wheels are about an inch thick(got the whole set with 31x10.5 all terrains for $40 after some craigslist bartering) i drove about 20 miles total. i guess i got another job checking angles this weekend. any good threads?
 
Back
Top