New DD

tranny is great so far.
once i get a new radiator i can drive it. and i need to swap in some better steering. which is on its way.
 
swappd in a radiator into each jeep tonight. and changed the front diff. oil in the new jeep. i noticed the new jeeps coolant is rust colored. im hoping its rust and not a bad head gasket. i flushed it once tonight, ill flush it again tomorrow and see if i can get it clear. i also noticed the bars leaks pellets make the water brown so i wonder if thats all it is?
 
radiators.com . i swapped a 3 core all metal into the 89, then took the one out of that and swapped it into the 92. not sure if it was 2 or 3 core.

both jeeps can idle for over 40 minutes or more without turning on the e-fan and without getting hot. that seems pretty good, although its cold out.
 
290$
3 core all metal was with lifetime warranty

240$
3 core all metal was with 1 yr

120$
2 core alum with plastic sides

they are on florin perkins i drove there to save on shipping
 
i have my ways of finding them.
i replaced the harmonic balancer (took a while),plugs, cap/rotor , air filter, dumped the solid fan for a fan clutch, power steering fluid, power steering adjusting setup screws and block(had to cut off old ones),
changed oil, and managed to put a hole in the radiator so im going to order a new radiator tomorrow from radiators.com

next is a new front end with new brakes, HD steering, HD lca mounts, 4.10s (new rig is 4.10s) and a posi (powerlok from a CJ in a XJ front end) for dirt cheap with only 20k miles.
Does that mean you will getting rid of the stock/current axle? If so, wanna give me a good deal on it. I need 4.10s in the front of mine to have 4wd again!
 
Does that mean you will getting rid of the stock/current axle? If so, wanna give me a good deal on it. I need 4.10s in the front of mine to have 4wd again!

i hvae to make sure the new axle is 4.10 then its going up for sale. id sell it cheaper for a quick sale if the new one actually is 4.10. but if i gotta sit on it it wont be as cheap
 
i hvae to make sure the new axle is 4.10 then its going up for sale. id sell it cheaper for a quick sale if the new one actually is 4.10. but if i gotta sit on it it wont be as cheap
PM your number/info I have $$, not sure exactly when be able to pick up, but can pay asap. Let me know. Thanks.
 
i got the new 410 front end with the powerlok today and heavy duty tie rod .
ill be trying to swap it this weekend.

i also got some other things buttoned up. hoping to get the doors and windows done tomorrow, and weld in otk knuckle insert tomorrow in the new hp30 so i can go otk and also grab some steering parts while im there, i new new tie rod ends for the tie rod.
 
Got all new tie rod ends on both drag link and Tie rod. Got new doors on, locks into doors, took apart and cleaned electronic window switches, I.stalled new rear window , threw some bilstien 5100s on up front that I had lying around that are super Long, perfect for a 7.5" lift.
 
you should keep the old doors and make half doors!
 
cant believe we even got the window in here. i spent time bending the track straight
IMAG0206.jpg


some decent steering
IMAG0200.jpg


literally had these nice 5100s lying around, they were too long for my other rig
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old front shocks eye to eye conversion, no studs, i guess they are for sale. 29" extended, 19" compressed
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Ya i have serious.issues. at least its a 5 speed so I can justify it being a dd.


Dang Jon, your DD is setup better than my dedicated trail rig.. :-(

 
steering is kinda crappy so i got the front end off today. the new one is going on tomorrow.
to do list:
outboard rear upper and lower shock mounts , they are way inboarded top and bottom, good for flex, terrible for some body roll that almost seems to be giving me rear steer?
then install joshs old rear shocks in the rear
then move back to the front axle:
weld frame side trackbar mount to unibody.
truss uca pass side axle side uca mount
weld tubes to housing
drill out driver side knuckle for goferit insert.
weld spacers into the lca mounts axle side since the after market lca mounts are 10mm too wide on each side.
then swap axle in with my old rubicon 5.5" coils to drop the front down an inch or two
then sell the 6.5" or 7.5" coils that are in there. really stiff, good spring rate, then pull rear 1" lift blocks, and once again , outboard the damn rear shocks.
finish repainting the bushwackers then re install them


and the gas mileage is not as good as i thought it was, i need to recalculate it, but the thing runs great and has no issues.

need to eventually get rid of the drop pitman arm as well. i hate it. im sure thats making the steering worse.

ill be out wrenching sunday, tomorrow, from the morning until its all done, hopefully pretty quick.
 
mounting your shocks outboard means they'll be placed on the outside of the frame rails, are you placing them on the outside of the unirail?
Are your stock upper mounts in-tact?
 
i was going to place them on the outside of the frame rail, but i think i am going to weld up new mounts axle side and use the stock upper mounts for now, and maybe down the road change the setup if i run into any issues.
 
If you go outside you’re going to need to cut a hole in the rear wheel well like mine to get a suitable length shock in there as the only spot to mount it at the bottom is on the spring plate. it'd be a good excuse to have some fun with all that tubing you just got...neoprene does a good job of keeping all the elements outa the cab.

foazzle.jpg
 
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