OnlyInMyXJ22 said:
It is for 98-01, but will fit some 97 models also, depending on the plug. This is what the plug looks like:
This part is brand new, never used. $140 shipped. I need this gone.
Don't buy...rebuild !! That's what I did. Check this out:
http://www.jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp
or (from another site):
Cool NSS Rebuild
Rebuild a Cherokee Neutral Start Switch
Note: After cleaning and reassembly, adjustment is made using an ohmmeter
(I don't know about this step...I didn't do it and the NSS works fine)
Check the neutral start switch as specified by the service manual.
The switch can be 'clocked' for proper adjustment.
You could open the switch, clean it and lube with dielectric grease, and " it should last a while longer."
(I rebuilt my NSS like 20K miles ago...it's been fine...my prob was very mild oxidation on the internal terminals, not worn internal parts).
Remove the switch by prying up the washer tabs from the 7/8" attaching nut, remove the nut and the small adjusting bolt.
The service manual says to remove the shift linkage from the left side of the transmission, don't -- it's not necessary.
Slide the switch off the shaft, unplug the connector up by the trans. dip stick, and snip any zip ties.
The shaft may be dirty making it hard to remove, clean the exposed shaft as much as possible, then just keep on wiggling the switch until it comes off.
Remove six Phillips screws to open the switch, be careful of the gasket which may be brittle. The switch will most likely be sticky, dirty and corroded.
The two copper contacts in the swing arm may be stuck in place. The springs should push the contacts into good contact with the copper rails.
Remove the contacts and springs.
Clean the slots in the swing arm along with the springs and the contacts.
Spray type contact cleaner works well, or brake cleaner
File or sand the top of the contacts to remove worn spots.
(I sanded with 240 grit just to remove oxidation only)
The contacts should stick up about one tenth of an inch. If they don't stick up out of the arm, you could get new springs at an electronics supply house.
Lightly lubricate the springs and contacts with dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
(Don't skip this step !)
Thoroughly clean all the old grease from the pockets around the copper rails in the plastic body. the copper rails can be sanded using the eraser on a pencil. Be sure it is FLAT!
You can place the sandpaper on a flat surface and slid the switch back and forth slowly on the paper. Only use enough strokes to remove the corrosion and low spots from the copper rails without removing too much material. I used an eraser from a pencil.
Deburr the edges of the copper rails after sanding, -- loose copper particles in the switch will cause problems if left inside.
This is a great time to prevent water from getting into the switch. The vent is no more than a 1" long tube with a vent cap placed in the wire loom. The loom is open on the bottom. Water could easily enter here and corrode switch contacts, and gum up the switch.
The 1" tube can be replaced with a 24" tube and routed through the wire loom and capped off with the original vent cap at the firewall high in the engine compartment.
Use dielectric grease to fill the pockets around the copper rails, and to lube and protect the rails from corrosion, (As long as these pockets are present below the rails, the sliding contacts can create continuity with good springs behind them).
Fill the groove near the vent -- but keep the vent clear of grease.
Also lube the seals in the switch body and cover where the swing arm pivots.
Don't forget to lube the inside of the metal cover where two lugs on the back of the swing arm slide.
Just prior to assembly, apply a light coat of silicone sealer to the groove in the metal case and put the gasket in place.
Apply a light coat of silicone at the mating surface of the metal case outside the gasket.
Assemble and tighten the six screws.
Install the switch being sure to line up the vertical flats of the transmission shaft parallel with the scribed line on the switch case with the transmission in neutral.
Tighten the adjustment bolt, snug the 7/8" bolt and bend washer tabs down.
The connector terminals labeled 'B' and 'C' should have continuity in park and neutral, 'A' and 'E' in reverse, 'A' and 'G' in 3rd, and 'A' and 'H' in the 1st-2nd position.
