Several yrs ago I had the 4.0HO in my 91 YJ rebuilt. It was bored .030 over. I'd like to turn it into a stroker for my XJ since the YJ is getting a V8. Would I just need crank and rods to turn it into a 4.7 stroker? Or is there more involved to it then that? It was really just a basic rebuild with a mild cam.
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needed for stroker?
- Thread starter egotripp
- Start date
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Pretty much. 258 crank and rods and stock 4.0L pistons. Or 258 crank, 4.0L rods, KB944 pistons or other custom piston.
wolfpackjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 500' and 500KCAS, RAF lakenheath
.030 over won't get you to 4.7 though. It would end up around 4.6. 4.7 takes a custom rod or a 258 setup and .060 over
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
How do you get a 4.6 to 4.7 using a custom rod?
wolfpackjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 500' and 500KCAS, RAF lakenheath
you gotta drink heavily to do it. Thats my mistake.
JJacobs
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins CO
No offense to stroker owners, but from all the stroker nightmares I've seen on this and other sites you must really, really like working on engines to build one. Odds are it's gonna need to be taken apart several times.
wolfpackjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 500' and 500KCAS, RAF lakenheath
Mine has not been apart in 15k miles. The only things I have had to do are routine maintenance. Oh, I also replaced a dizzy, but to be honest I should have replaced it during the build instead of being a cheapskate. There is nothing extreme to my build, but it is a 258 crank and rod based 4.7.
I see a lot of people who jumped in to building an engine based only on what the read on one forum. By that I mean that they know the steps and pieces needed to build this specific engine to a T, however they have done no research on engine building in general. They know the specifics but not the big picture.
It is the little things that will get you. For instance, I open every internal engine component's box at the parts counter. I found 4 opened rod bearings this way (no plastic wrap, one had a bit of oil on it like it had been handled. 2 more were lightly scratched. Had I not known better I may have used those and be replacing them in the near future.
It is the little things that will get you.
I see a lot of people who jumped in to building an engine based only on what the read on one forum. By that I mean that they know the steps and pieces needed to build this specific engine to a T, however they have done no research on engine building in general. They know the specifics but not the big picture.
It is the little things that will get you. For instance, I open every internal engine component's box at the parts counter. I found 4 opened rod bearings this way (no plastic wrap, one had a bit of oil on it like it had been handled. 2 more were lightly scratched. Had I not known better I may have used those and be replacing them in the near future.
It is the little things that will get you.
- Location
- WA state
LS/LQ truck motor swap > 4.0L+stroker
JJacobs
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Collins CO
Don't buy a titan and you'll be alright.
It's not rocket surgery.
I know what you mean. Some guys never get one to work and others never seem to have any problems. The flat-cam thing was pretty widespread for a while. Didn't seem like many other newly built V-8 flat tappet motors were having the same problem then.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Even with the proper oil and correct break in there have been cams going flat. I had a Comp Cams fail, and I know of another Comp that failed just recently.
505's "roller" cam looks interesting, its just that you can't expect more than 60,000-150,000 miles at most out of it. It it was a true billet roller cam I would be all over that.
x2 on avoiding Titan.
505's "roller" cam looks interesting, its just that you can't expect more than 60,000-150,000 miles at most out of it. It it was a true billet roller cam I would be all over that.
x2 on avoiding Titan.
Dr. Dyno
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Al Ain, UAE
Including the Crane 753905 cam/lifters that I had in my 4.6 stroker. Two lifters and one cam lobe went bad after 34k miles and I'd been running Mobil 1. I threw my old stock cam back in with new lifters and haven't looked back since. That was the only time in 5-1/2 years that I had to go back into the engine. Now my stroker's done 58k miles and it still runs like a champ (knock on wood).
rusky04
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- State College
why would you recommend avoiding the titan crate motor?
wolfpackjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 500' and 500KCAS, RAF lakenheath
Because it seems like everyone has a bad experience.
I had 3 stock cams when I rebuilt mine. I picked the best looking one, lucked out since one looked fantastic. No problems since.
wolfpackjeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 500' and 500KCAS, RAF lakenheath
Because it seems like everyone has a bad experience.
I had 3 stock cams to choose from when I built mine. I picked the best looking one, lucked out since one looked fantastic. No problems since. It was actually from the 1991 reman block that I broke. Had 50k on it.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
Why not Titan? Because they are complete crap. I went as far as to drive my Jeep down there, they swapped my engine out with a new one, and on the way home it broke with valve train problems. Then I fix that and it developed rod knock. All under 6000 miles since I purchased it. And that was just the end, I'm leaving out all the crap that led up to that. Sure there is a warranty, but you can put a warranty on a piece of crap, but its still a piece of crap. And its not just me. There are several other people I know of that have had bad experiences with Titan.
Too bad WA is almost on the other side of the world from me. I don't get alot of free time and would rather get a short/long block from a trusted source. I'd go 505 but they want ridiculous amounts of money.
