need to get higher

[moneypitxj]

i am planning on going to 8" from my 5" of lift. i was going to use acos in the front and leafs and shackles in the rear. i am wondering what else i would need to change. i figured on new shocks (brand?) and brake lines plus i have the sye kit, but what else do i need to keep it safe. i do and will be beating the poo out of it. i called rustys today and he said not to go that high unless i use the long-arm kit and of course he sell 1. so do i need a long-arm or can i just build of my present kit for 8"?

 

[JoeXJ]

I don't know for sure but isn't 3" on the ACOS kindof pushing it?

-Joe

 

[csudman]

Long arms are not a must,

1st. Do you have aftermarket arms already? What does your "present kit"
consist of?

2nd. What year xj do you have and what axles are under it?
I'm assuming you want to run a 35" tire. If you plan on "beating
the piss out of it" your going to be breaking alot of stuff.

3rd. Budget?

4th. Tire goal?

5th. You probably, but don't have to, need to budget in 5-700 dollars to get
gears done. Depends on labor unless you can do it yourself.

Answer these and well get you a better answer.

 

[moneypitxj]

i have a 4.5 rustys kit aftermarket lca not adjustable
d30 in front w/4.56
8.25 in rear w/4.56
right now i have 33's, but when these where down i'll go w/35's
its a 1994 2door

 

[ashmanjeepxj]

i have a 4.5 rustys kit aftermarket lca not adjustable
d30 in front w/4.56
8.25 in rear w/4.56
right now i have 33's, but when these where down i'll go w/35's
its a 1994 2door

youll need:
SYE
New rear CV shaft
Move the front forward to fit the larger tires (new links of some sort)
New longer front shaft may be needed if moved forward
Id get longer front coils over a coil spacer, sky jacker or rock crawler brand should do.
Rancho 5012 shocks are 13.5in travel and $39 each, youll need a BPE to mount them.
Longer front brake lines, one 12in longer rear brake line.
Steering if stock will probibly hit the Steering stabelizer shock mount, so youll need to modify your steering, new links over the knuckle, track bar and SS shock re located. terra kunckles are really cool.


Then youll be done polishing alot of tirds, brake stuff, and want 37s
:helpme:

4.5-5in lift is a capable height at a cheep price. Thats what I first had.
Now Its a 1ton buggy, with none of the in between waised polishing.

 

[MJlogan]

Im at 8" right now with the stock steering and re control arms in the stock location and let me tell you it sucks. The steering is scary as hell. The control arm angles are so steep that if i try and crawl over a curb it pushes the tire back.

you need some form of drop brackets or longarms to remedy the control arm angles and you need to address the steering. Also at this height the track bar is at a crazy angle.

I've got my longarms and crossmember built and am waiting on some heims to get it all together. As far as steering goes im going over the knuckle and have relocated my track bar mount further up on the axle.

 

[Fore Wheeler]

youll need:
SYE
Move the front forward to fit the larger tires (new links of some sort)

I'm running 38's with my axle in the stock front/back location, what's with moving the front? you'll open another can o' worms by moving the axle.



I'm at 11" or so of lift, I've changed my axles to full width which is again a different deal but don't forget that your axles won't hold up for long with 35's, or bigger.

I'm using a custom long arm on my Jeep and I love it, if I were you I'd go with a long arm kit, it works much better than the stock four link, just think of the angle that the controll arms will be at at that height.

Steering may be an issue, but using a over the knuckle set up will work just fine.

yes, you'll need shocks and all the other things that just makes sense you'll need, and an SYE is required.

If you buy a kit, you'll have most if not all of these issues worked out for you. I'm not going to tell you what kit to buy cuz I really don't have first hand experiance with any of them, I think you made a good start by calling Rusty tho.

Start another thread asking for opinions from those that have bought the Sky kit, Rusty's and what ever other kits there are.

4.56 gears will get you started with 35's so that's not that big of a deal. Auto tranny is better for not being geared perfect due to the slip of the torque converter, if you have a 5 speed, you may want to regear.

Hope this helps.

 

[small pederson]

if you dont want long arms you will need some RE lower arm drop brackets and adjustable arms. i also heard somebody makes an 8" short arm kit. there are cheap long arm upgrade kits out there.

 

[small pederson]

hey fore wheeler you have a website with pics?

 

[Fore Wheeler]

hey fore wheeler you have a website with pics?

yea, www.forewheeleroffroad.com , but it's all pics of my old jeep when real small (33's), here's a pic of the new Jeep, still hasn't left the garage yet, and I have beadlocks now too.

 

[CheapXJ]

cut more sheetmetal

 

[small pederson]

yea, www.forewheeleroffroad.com , but it's all pics of my old jeep when real small (33's), here's a pic of the new Jeep, still hasn't left the garage yet, and I have beadlocks now too.

badass man what are the specs on that?

 

[Fore Wheeler]

91 Limited, front full width d44, rear 9" (both from a 78 F-150), custom Ford radius arms, 5.38/5.42 gears, front detroit, rear full spool, 38x12.5 TSL's, Alcan rear springs (which may be for sale soon), rusty's 6" front coils with 2 1/2" spacer setting on top of the radius arms (net aprox 11"), motor is stock with 194,000 miles, AW4, NP 231 w/SYE, Trail Ready winch bumper (don't ever buy one - junk), Warn HS9500i, custom rear bumper, custom rocker panels (you can't see them in the pic cuz they're not there), beadlocks (not in pic), and of course leather seats.

 

[small pederson]

91 Limited, front full width d44, rear 9" (both from a 78 F-150), custom Ford radius arms, 5.38/5.42 gears, front detroit, rear full spool, 38x12.5 TSL's, Alcan rear springs (which may be for sale soon), rusty's 6" front coils with 2 1/2" spacer setting on top of the radius arms (net aprox 11"), motor is stock with 194,000 miles, AW4, NP 231 w/SYE, Trail Ready winch bumper (don't ever buy one - junk), Warn HS9500i, custom rear bumper, custom rocker panels (you can't see them in the pic cuz they're not there), beadlocks (not in pic), and of course leather seats.

nice. this summer im thinking about putting in similar axles. im running long arms right now, is there anyway i can get a picture of your radius arm setup? how do those work for you?

 

[BrettM]

i have a 4.5 rustys kit aftermarket lca not adjustable
d30 in front w/4.56
8.25 in rear w/4.56
right now i have 33's, but when these where down i'll go w/35's
its a 1994 2door

If you really want to beat the piss out of an XJ on 35s, I think your time and money is best spent making it strong, not making it tall. Check out the thread about putting 36s on a 4 inch lift, it is very doable with a 2 door like you have.

-Make sure you have rocker protection, skid plates, and solid bumpers.
-D44s front and rear (or better).
-get rid of as much Rusty's stuff as possible.
-Keep the lift height down, 5 inches or less, so you won't need to do much for steering/trackbar and keep your COG low.
-flip tie-rod and make new one BEEFY
-cut the fenders to fit 35s
-get frame stiffeners or a cage


if you really just want your jeep to be tall and look "cool", the first step is admitting it, then we can help you do that... maybe :laugh3:

 

[Fore Wheeler]

-get rid of as much Rusty's stuff as possible.

?????

Rusty makes alot of good products. That's all I'm going to say. Conversation over.

 

[ZachMan]

I'm running 38's with my axle in the stock front/back location, what's with moving the front? you'll open another can o' worms by moving the axle.



I'm at 11" or so of lift, I've changed my axles to full width which is again a different deal but don't forget that your axles won't hold up for long with 35's, or bigger.

Hope this helps.

Nice rig man.

Hmm, I bet his hp d30 w/ 35s will last just as long as your hp d44 w/ 38s.

Rustys stuff is junk, really maybe his coils and shackles are pretty good. His control arms suck and his un-even leafsprings suck. I have RE right now and I live maybe 30 minutes from Rusty.

 

[CheapXJ]

If you really want to beat the piss out of an XJ on 35s, I think your time and money is best spent making it strong, not making it tall. Check out the thread about putting 36s on a 4 inch lift, it is very doable with a 2 door like you have.

-Make sure you have rocker protection, skid plates, and solid bumpers.
-D44s front and rear (or better).
-get rid of as much Rusty's stuff as possible.
-Keep the lift height down, 5 inches or less, so you won't need to do much for steering/trackbar and keep your COG low.
-flip tie-rod and make new one BEEFY
-cut the fenders to fit 35s
-get frame stiffeners or a cage


if you really just want your jeep to be tall and look "cool", the first step is admitting it, then we can help you do that... maybe :laugh3:

and not to mention chassis stiffening... big tires and big axles are heavy. they WILL twist an XJ, especially an old rusty one

:bawl:

 

[moneypitxj]

good stuff, actually mad maxj your right on the more i think about it i want to keep the center of gravity low. just need to hack the fenders more and do alot of welding. we should see more pics of low rigs w/big tires and stiffened chassis.