OT
NAXJA Forum User
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- Jensen, UT
Does anyone have the blueprints or measurements for turning a SYE flange?
Thanks
Thanks
I'm bored.burntkat said:I only ask because I'm curious:
why wouldn't you just buy one?
Okie Terry said:I'm bored.
Are you looking for the seal housing flange or the driveline flange?
What can I say, If it works at 7" it works. Don't ask me why there were no adverse effects with a slip yoke. But since its all apart, I might as well change over, I've got the DS.XJEEPER said:Is this the Okie that was bragging about running a slipyoke with 8" of lift? :looney:
This is the million dollar question. I'm not that good yet. I guess this idea will have to sit back till I get that problem worked out.Bronco said:How do you plan to do the internal splines?
Then you have everything you need. Just machine the flange to match the four bolt holes and pilot on the new DS. I believe the bolts are 7/16 NF. The spline info you can get from your old slip yoke. I imagine you can even cut apart the old slip yoke and weld the new flange to it to avoid having to broach new splines. (I have the utmost confidence in your welding)Okie Terry said:I've got the DS.
That's a great idea Brad and thanks for the vote of confidence. Who needs RE's measurements anyway.kid4lyf said:Then you have everything you need. Just machine the flange to match the four bolt holes and pilot on the new DS. I believe the bolts are 7/16 NF. The spline info you can get from your old slip yoke. I imagine you can even cut apart the old slip yoke and weld the new flange to it to avoid having to broach new splines. (I have the utmost confidence in your welding)
In the center of the flange drill a 7/16 through hole to match the 3/8 NC hole you'll have to drill/tap in the TC shaft.
That will be my first angle of attack.Lawn Cher' said:I think if you took a stock slip yoke, cut off the yoke part and just used the splined tube portion with a press fit into the center hole of the flange and then welded the assembly, you'd be pretty good for taking care of any potential eccentricity or runout problems.
Confidence well earned. The axle U joint caps you welded up in Moab are the only ones that didn't crack (including mine).Okie Terry said:That's a great idea Brad and thanks for the vote of confidence. Who needs RE's measurements anyway.
If all else fails, I guess I can learn to use the mill a little better to take care of the spline issue.
The late models don't need a seal flange. The shaft is already sealed. RE shows the hack-n-tap for pre '96 fitting both 231 and 242. You can probably buy just the seal from them.Okie Terry said:That will be my first angle of attack.
Now the issue of a good seal flange. Will a late model 231 seal flange fit a 242?