narrowed d44

[xjbubba]

I've got one of those '79 Ford F150 axel assymblys the experts say "stay away" from, if you want to shorten it yourself.
Being a firm believer in "do it yourself", I'm intertaining narrowing this axel myself. Removing the cast radius arm mounts results in an axel tube too short. So, the questione is what is a feasable way for a do-it-yourselfer to extend the tubes? Not sure I am capable of totally re-tubing by r&r'ing tubes fron diff (no huge press in my garage), but I am considering extending the cut tubes by internal sleeve and butt-welded extensions. I would have a short 3/16 wall tube machined to a tight (light press) fit into the original tube, with about 3inch overlapp. Then press on extension tube, add knuckles to this, then press this assymbly into the original axel tube. I'd butt weld the new extension to the original tube, and add rosset welds through holes in the original and add-on tube to the pressed in sleeve.
Comments; alternatives? Or should I just take it to the "big Boys" for a retube and be done with it?

 

[bj-666]

ahh what suspension are you goign to be running on this axle? do you have a set of spare inner c's because the radius arms are cast to those. many hot rod guys when they narrow axles jsut weld the tubes together but it must be done right strait and true as well as being sure you can weld. if it were me i think i would sleve the outside of the tube because it dosn't look like there is much room on the inside for a sleve. just seems like a lot of work that could be saved by spending a few minutes in the phone book. try car-part.com

 

[Jeff 98XJ WI]

I've never done this, but I think if you retain some sort of a suspension the uses the radius arm mounts, you can shorten the tube and put the combination radius arm mount thing back on to the shortened tube to end up with a narrowed axle with radius arm mounts. Jeff

 

[xjbubba]

Thanks for the input--I didn't look close to the inner-c/radius arm joint--just assumed I would be able to liberate the inner "c's" and attach them to the new axel tube. I'm planning on adding stock style 4-link attachments, then doing some sort of long arm set-up.
Finding a D44, high pinion housing at a reasonable price, within 1000 miles of my location is seeming impossible, except by luck (how I found this one--friend of a friend).
I was thinking a machined sleeve (inside or out) would give me the alignment required for the new tube to old tube joint, pluss strengthen the joint. Also, various bracketry would be welded in theses areas further strengthening the joint. Am I out to lunch on this?

 

[bj-666]

i spent an afternoon in the phone book and found about 5-6 of them just be patient it will come

 

[XJ_ranger]

well, i would sleeve the inside, build your brackets and truss the hell out of that spot...

as a general rule of small tube - (less than 1' dia) the larger tube (OD) with the same wall thickness is stronger.

so that internal tube with an OD of 1-3/4" wouldnt be as strong as a outer sleeve with a 3" OD and a 1/4" wall diamiter.


why not run a custom crossmember and the radius arm setup?

also might look into running This Product
on that side?

i dont like the way that works much - but might help you?

how much are you looking to narrow it? the +-3" on each side that seperate the knuckles from the wedges and just run custom length shafts?

not a bad plan...

determination, and the wrong tools will get you just as far as the right equipment and a big pocketbook.

 

[xjbubba]

Thanks for the input, XJ Ranger;
I need to shorten both tubes in order to insure clearance between the diff housing and the 350, which sets low in the "frame". That means the cast radius arm bracket must be removed from the driver's side in order to get the correct positioning of wheel, radius arm mount, and diff housing. There is not enough tube between the diff and the radius arm mount to shorten the driver's side +-3 inches. So the need to cut the radius arm mount completely out and either retube the housing or add necessary tube to the remaing stub--something I think I can do, if feasable from a strength point of view. Because removing the cast radius arm mounts destroys them, I need to fab new mounts, which means I can do any thing I want. Thought I'd set up the new assymbly with the stock XJ-style 4-link attachments to allow "choices", and improve sellablity in the future.
Looked at the "W.A.H."--not sure how that is installed. The therory seems good, but do'nt know about the application. Does that unit go under the radius arm mount, or is it just a sleeve in the center of the long-side tube?
Thanks again.

 

[XJ_ranger]

Thanks for the input, XJ Ranger;
I need to shorten both tubes in order to insure clearance between the diff housing and the 350, which sets low in the "frame". That means the cast radius arm bracket must be removed from the driver's side in order to get the correct positioning of wheel, radius arm mount, and diff housing. There is not enough tube between the diff and the radius arm mount to shorten the driver's side +-3 inches. So the need to cut the radius arm mount completely out and either retube the housing or add necessary tube to the remaing stub--something I think I can do, if feasable from a strength point of view. Because removing the cast radius arm mounts destroys them, I need to fab new mounts, which means I can do any thing I want. Thought I'd set up the new assymbly with the stock XJ-style 4-link attachments to allow "choices", and improve sellablity in the future.
Looked at the "W.A.H."--not sure how that is installed. The therory seems good, but do'nt know about the application. Does that unit go under the radius arm mount, or is it just a sleeve in the center of the long-side tube?
Thanks again.

the WAH keeps the flex when you run a radius arm setup - similar to a wriested radius arm setup and puts a bearing that allows the HOUSING to twist... that would be good to run on the long side if you were to keep the radius arms...

I have some radius arm cuttoff wedges if you would want to use thoes and relocate the mounts to clear the 350...

also look for posts by FarmerMatt about lenghening radius arms and bending them to get better than normal flex...