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My stroker thread..pics

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seanyb505

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Simpsonville, SC
Ive finally started buying stuff for my stroker engine. I dont want to keep hijacking xjoshua's thread when I have questions I cant figure out by reading so Ill just start my own. Its had a slow start but it is pickung up pace, especially with a 2k tax refund around the corner!:clap: This is my first build so Im quite excited. In the name of doing it right the first time I dont want to cut unecessary corners, so Im approaching this as a standard rebuild, except with new crank rods and pistons and few other changed parts. I also want to keep costs down as you will see.

I have created a preliminary budget/parts list. Im not sure if some machine work will get done, so I have left some areas blank for now and gave a rough estimate of things I know will need to be done, like boring and honing. If anyone feels I am missing something please let me know.

jun.jpg


Using the stroker calculator which has helped me learn a lot about what effects what, I have come up with this desired combination. As of know the engine is still intact and running so I dont know whether any decking will need to be done, but I would like to take at least .008 off the block to get the quench closer to stock. I want to keep quench close to stock if not better and run at most 9.5:1 CR. I learned from xjoshua that the silvolite pistons can be milled to at least 21.9 cc, but I didnt feel that to be quite necessary given the 9.36 CR. Enjoy!

NaxjaStrokercalc.jpg


As I stated earlier I have begun collecting parts.
4.2 Connecting rods:

DSC00164.jpg


Connecting rod bearings:

DSC00161.jpg


Ford 24# Injectors. I got these off ebay for a reasonable $56 because one of them is missing a cap. Luckily I only need six!

DSC00163.jpg


Funds have been depleted, so thats it for now. I know everyone likes pictures, so Ill get more up as the parts pile grows. If anyone feels I have missed anything or has any comments dont hesitate!
 
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check the impedance on those injectors, I have low impedance injectors and they throw a code in the injection circuit, makes the truck run rich too. Got them from ebay, ford motorsports. I am getting ready to switch to GM lt1 injectors from a friend.

My block was milled thirty at the bolt holes and I think 10 overall. I didnt mess with new rod bolts or head bolts as they are not torque to yield bolts. My machine work was right around that price including install of cam bearings and a good cleaning.

I would recommend de-stressing the rods and heat soaking them for strength though. check if your pistons use metric or standard rings, because the metric rings are hard to find, at least for .06 over pistons. And a lot of the parts you list, you can get for a little cheaper at Advance auto. I would rethink the double roller timing chain too, it is really un-necessary at low rpms

my thoughts though, good luck
 
Ive read that quite a few people are running Ford injectors without a problem. They are Denso F55E-A2E, from what have just not looked up they are rated at 24# at 14.6 ohms, so they do have a high impedance. I got scared for a second there.

I was doing new rod and head bolts for insurance. Pistons take standard rings, summit has told me they sell them.

Which parts would be cheaper at advance? I just tried to do most of this shopping online.

About the dual roller...unnecessary for low rpms like below 3k? Or low rpms like 4-5k? Im shooting for an engine I can wind up. I know it wont go past 5200 and the longer it spends up there the worse it is, but I dont take it offroad and I like to go high through the gears. If it means it might be safer to stick with it I wont blink at spending 100 more. If it really isnt necessary at all I may rethink it. A lot of the reason a lot of th parts are on the list is because of the reading i ave done on dino's and other sites.
 
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Just an FYI I run the Ford Motorsport 24lb injectors in my 97, they work great. They run slightly better than the LT1 injectors I replaced them with.
 
Just as a thought. Have you asked the machine shop that is doing the block and head prep for an estimate on the prices for the rest of your parts? I work in an automotive machine shop and would just like to say that some shops can offer the rest of the needed parts at competitive prices.

~Alex
 
I got my pistons through the machine shop. Havent had a problem with them yet so I cant complain.

Usually When I think of applications needing a double roller timing set, v8's running in the 5.5 to 6k rpm range come to mind. I dont think you would really have a problem with a standard one, also, how does a double roller fit under the timing cover?

I know I got a good deal on clevite bearings at carquest. Also, with the high volume pump you will need to either have someone cut and reweld the oil pan for more clearance, or do it yourself with a 4x4 and a sledge
 
I will have to source the machine shop before I start buying parts then...

I decided to go with the single roller, due to it being less expensive and still being able to handle the job.

I left the bearing row blank because NAPA online says their cranks come with bearings, so I wasnt going to buy any until I knew that it didnt come with them.

I have not read anywhere about the pan needing adjustment. I know the girdle down there needs some washers on it to clear the rod ends, but could you tell me what exactly needs to be done to the pan? Is it better to stick with the stock pump? Thanks for the replies!
 
I used the high volume pump because i thought it would help lube the motor better. and it will be the deeper part of the pan where the pickup screen goes that needs clearancing.

The 4.2 crank will come with bearings, but they will be the wrong ones, they will have offset notches that are made for a 4.2 block, not the 4.0. You will need to find out what the oversize on the grind for the crank is then buy that size for a 4.0 block. you can try putting the 4.2 bearings back in the box and return them as wrong or defective. They usually come in a normal shelf stock box. And my motor didnt have a girdle since I built a 92 block.
 
I set it on a pile of sand, upright, then put a 4x4 in it and pounded away with the sledge, you just need to bow the bottom of the pan out a little so that the oil pickup will fit. You could also have someone cut the bottom of the pan off and add a half or quarter inch strip of metal between the top and bottom, but I didnt care so I just wailed on it
 
I see..would the 4.2 pan fit or does it need to be a 4.0 pan? Upright like end over end, or like that way it bolts to the engine, like a bowl? Sorry for all the questions. It just wasnt anything I had encountered in research. Thanks!
 
I highly recommend the FelPro gasket set, the one piece siliconized oil pan gasket is the bomb! And I have never had a FelPro head gasket leak or weep. A good second choice are the Victor Reintz gaskets from NAPA...and the double row timing chain kit is good insurance.

And at least have the donor rods magnafluxed and checked for true and sizing...better yet have them sent off for professional shotpeen and resizing....they are plenty strong enough if they are properly evaluated and prepaired even though they are iron, not steel.
 
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The rods will have to be resized. Changing out the rod bolts reshapes the big end a little bit. Typically a resized rod will then measure a couple thousandths shorter. Just pressing those ARP bolts in and running it that way without a resize is asking for failure.

When you go to put it together you can get a better running engine by moving parts around a little bit. Rods and pistons and crank pins all have a slightly different height/ length to them. By checking piston height in the hole at tdc and moving assemblies to different cylinders you may end up with a smoother running engine, and make sure they all have the same quench height.

Of course you don't get as much out of this trick with your engine as one that is setup with 'floating' rods where the pistons can be changed from rod to rod without heat. Still it's something to keep in mind.
 
+1 on the felpro gaskets. It is the only valvecover I have ever seen that doesent leak on a 4.0.
Item description reads:
felpro one piece perma-dry molded rubber gasket

accept no less
 
not sure if you've purchased an oil pump yet or not but what is your intent for this engine?

will it see a lot of high rpm?


i opted not to get the high volume because i wont be revving the engine to the moon all the time. as a matter of fact i dont want to at all and hopefully wont have to with the new power.

i know these engines dislike high rpm's a little more than some others so i opted to advance the cam timing to give me even MORE bottom end. i figure with lots of torque to play with i shouldnt have a need to floor it that often and if i'm not doing that a standard oil pump would be more than sufficient.

and if you do decide to go with a high volume, i would try and just buy a stiffer spring for yours or a replacement stocker to up the pressure. that would dodge any potential oil pan modifications VIA BFH!


and i was extremely pleased with the gasket set from fel pro. i am devoted to them from using them on chevy's but what they've done with the 4.0 gaskets is wonderful. there is even a bead of red on the head gasket to aleviate the need for any kind of sealer, and the valve cover gasket is easy to work with and doesnt leak.


i did however use permatex gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket, head, and valve cover. i am partial to gaskacinch though.
 
I used copper seal spray on my head gasket, worked great. I used it more to stick it too the head when I put it on the engine than anything else
 
Adding a small smear of adhesive silicone around the water holes is not a bad idea. just a little extra insurance, and to keep it in place while puting the head on.

~Alex
 
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