Z22_Z33 said:
Yeah to bad they decided to do some creative writing about what you've done with your rig. I thought you put on a 97+ intake manifold on there, not created your own. They must not want other people to know what you've done. Who knows maybe they think people would spend more time on thier rigs and on the trails then subscribing to the mag.
The guy that had asked if they could do the article in the first place left shortly after I had sent in the form they give you to fill out. He had said it was the most detailed information he had ever got and was looking forward to writing it up so he wouldn't have to make things up! It must have just been passed on to someone else who knew nothing about it. I think it was not a Jeep lover and why comments were put in about shopping trips etc which I rarely use it for. I do it all on my mountain bike every morning instead. I think he is like most here in 4wd's and a Toyota or Nissan supporter and would not have liked some of the things I added mentioning how the Jeep was a better way to go due to their excessive weight! I was just trying to build the Jeep name for all but didn't quite work out as well as I hoped.
Below is the form I sent in.
CUSTOM 4WD INFORMATION SHEET
Welcome to Australian 4WD Monthly Magazine’s information sheet. Please fill in as much information as possible on the following pages. Please be as accurate and technical as possible. Phone your mechanic for information if you didn’t work on your truck yourself.
The more information you supply, the better the story will be on your vehicle. Feel free to add more information and pages where needed.
Please return ASAP to:
Australian 4WD Monthly
50 Silverwater Rd, Silverwater, NSW, 2128
FAX: (02) 9748 3856
EMAIL:
[email protected]
OWNER DETAILS
Name: Marcus Ohms
Address:
Phone:
Email:
[email protected]
Occupation: House Dad, Boiler Maker, Plumber, Electrician, Plasterer, Mechanic, Handy Man, Web Master, Computer Builder, etc!
Date of birth: 8/9/64
Previous other 4WD’s: 1980 Hilux with 400 Chev V8, turbo 400 auto, Landcruiser running gear, 36x15x15 Dick Cepec tyres etc.
1979 Jeep CJ7 with 351 Ford V8, 9” rear, 33x12.5x15 tyres etc.
1995 Jeep Cherokee, 4” lift, 31x10.5x15 & 31X11.5x15 rear tyres, rear coil conversion using Range Rover trailing arms.
VEHICLE SUMMARY
Manufacturer: Jeep Model: Cherokee Year: 1995
Colour: White Purchase date: December 1999
Bought from (private/dealer): Dealer in 1999 Price: $ 26,000
Condition, km & modifications when purchased: Stock, clean, 63,000 kms
Kerb weight (i.e. unloaded): 1525 kgs
ENGINE:
Type: Petrol Capacity: 4.0 litre Configuration & cylinders: Straight 6
Engine modifications:
Bored throttle body
Throttle body spacer
Changed intake manifold, increased volume from 2600 cc’s to 4300 cc’s. 60% increase
Higher pressure injectors
Removed engine fan for twin electric ones.
Engine Builders name and company: Self
Fuel type(s): unleaded
Induction: EFI
Induction system fitted by name and company: Self
Dyno figures. Measured at: / engine 227 hp 254 lbs ft
Torque: ____344______Nm @___3500___RPM
Power: ____169______kW @ ___4750__RPM
Dyno print out available: N. Figures are from dyno reports from the same motor with the same modifications.
Engine filters type and brand:
Oil: Repco Fuel: Ryco Air: Repco.
Snorkel Y/N : Y
Brand: Have a diversion hose that leads to the top of the centre of the firewall for use while crossing rivers only. The front cold air intake is blocked and the plug pulled from the end of the hose which leaves the back of the airbox before water crossings. If the water reaches that high the motor would have stopped due to the electrics being under water as well. Have crossed the flooded Wenlock River on Cape York with water above the bonnet without trouble. If the crossing was any deeper it would not have been safe to cross it.
EXHAUST:
Pipe material: Mild Diameter: 2.5”
Mandrel bent: N
Extractors: Y brand: Hi-Tech stainless Muffler/s: Brand: Magnaflow, Stainless
Cat: Carsound, Stainless
Fitted by: Exhaust Fix in Croydon by Ross.
Careful consideration was taken to make sure that the whole system was setup to provide better torque at low engine speeds for towing and 4 wheeling rather than just high end HP.
COOLING:
Standard engine radiator: N
If no, type: Custom brass/copper 3 row. ( tanks and core were fabricated from scratch ) Stock, 2 row with plastic tanks and aluminium core.
TRANSMISSION:
Standard: Y Automatic 4 Speeds:
I have made a deeper pan for it by cutting the bottom out of the existing pan and adding another pan to the bottom of it. This completely removed the slow shifts I was experiencing on 100*F hot days while towing especially while in deep sand.
4WD activation: Part time / Full time: Both
2WD- to-4WD: shift-on-the-fly
Front hub locks: automatic
The transmission shifter has the 1-2 together which is not a problem when you want it left in first while crawling down steep hills as it will not change into second until the redline at 5000 revs. But if it is not that steep and you want it left in second gear and you have to slow up just a bit for an obstacle or corner, the auto will change back to first. You then have to speed back up a bit and shift the gear lever back to third and then back to 1-2 position until the next time you slow up a bit. So I have rigged up a switch that when switched on will stop the auto from engaging first by giving power to the solenoid responsible for keeping it in second gear so problem solved. Let you do second gear starts as well which is useful in slippery conditions.
TRANSFER CASE
Standard: Y
Reduction gears fitted: N Ratio: 2.73
Tail shaft modifications: N
Fitted by (name and company):
DIFFERENTIAL:
Standard: N. If no, brand: Detroit
Type: LSD Ratio: 4.11 ( 3.55 stock )
Diff locks:
Front Y Type: Tru-Trac
Rear Y Type: Tru-Trac
Fitted by (name and company): Self & CGA helped me with setting the new gear ratios up.
Front and rear forged aluminium diff covers with drain plugs.
These covers are forged which are stronger than steel and much stronger than cast. They reduce the temperature of the oil due to the fins which increases the surface area that the air can cool. Aluminium is also a better conductor of heat which effects the amount of heat transferred and I have noticed a great deal of difference. On a recent trip with my mates XJ along as well, I could hold my hand on his cover but it was not possible on mine as it radiated more heat outwards than the stock steel ones. There was a test comparison done in a US 4wd magazine and they found was a 60*F ( 15.6 C ) difference in oil temperature between aluminium covers and steel ones. The front cover has been redesigned at my request to have a drain plug added as well as raising the fill plug so the right oil level can be reached for the hi-pinion or reverse cut Dana 30's found on our XJ's and Wrangler's up to ’99 when they went back to the standard rotation. The rear one also has 50% more oil capacity.
STEERING:
Standard: Y
Other:
Steering box brace made that braces to opposite frame rail.
Panhard rod axle bolting point moved to centre the axle.
Modifications by (name and company): Self
SUSPENSION:
FRONT: Rigid
Type: __Coil_____
Height in mm or inches raised: 4”
Custom TJ coils with one inch self made spacers
Locating links: __5_____
Shocks: Brand and model: Rancho 9000’s
Any other modifications to front suspension: (shackles etc..)
Self made shock extensions ( 3” ) to regain lost travel by extended bump stops which were added to increase stability on the road as well as clear the guards and keep the up to down travel ratio correct.
I do my own alignments as well as shops would only do the toe but I found that no one was bothering to adjust the caster. This can be done on these by simply adding shims to the lower control arm body mounts which are easy to make up yourself. I have written up the procedure on my web site so others can do it as found that even in the USA they were not adjusting it. It makes a very noticeable
difference to the handling and in eliminating vibes. I laid out also how to both measure and adjust the toe in as well as centring the steering.
Front suspension fitted by (name and company): Self
REAR: Rigid
Type: ___Leaf_____
mm or inches raised: 4.5”
Stock pack with third leaf removed and a long front and a short rear 2” full size Cherokee add-a-leafs inserted. After nearly 5 years of Outback towing around Australia it still has not even sagged a ¼”
Shocks: Brand and model: Rancho 9000’s
Any other modifications to rear suspension:
Cut and raised the axle shock mounts to gain clearance and lost travel due to extended bump stops.
Rear suspension fitted by (name and company): Self
I have found the adjustability of the Rancho’s to be great as I can dial in the same handling when loaded keeping it safer. Also I would sometimes get axle tramp when towing up steep dunes in really hot weather and just by turning the shocks up it would disappear.
I decided on this height as it gave the better ramp over and approach and departure angles I was after while still giving great handling on the road. The 95 model is the easiest to raise this high without resorting to a SYE or slip yoke eliminator and double cardan drive shaft. The track was widened nearly 1 ½ times the hight increase to keep the centre of gravity as near stock as possible. Going higher only gives more compromises in uni joint and tie rod life etc and handling which is not worth while in the remote areas we travel where reliability is paramount. I also found the rear leaf springs better than coils for the towing duties we do as they sag less and are easier to dampen. It rides corrugations really well which is very import to us given the average trip would see 4000 of the 12,000 kms off the tarmac.
BRAKES:
Front: Standard: Y If No, what are they off:
Type: vented discs
Callipers: stock
Rear: Standard: N If no, what are they off: Ford EA
Type: solid Discs
Callipers: Ford EA
Made my own fully bolt on conversion using all Ford EA rear axle parts. Spent a day looking at the wreckers of all the model Fords as they have the same stud pattern and are the same in weight. Found that from the XD on that they offered a fully bolt on replacement for the standard drum brake as an option that still worked with the standard master cylinder etc and closely matched the rear disk brake piston size on a Grand Cherokee which has the same master cylinder as a Cherokee. With only needing a spacer to centre the caliper over the disk brake and some holes re-drilled to match the Jeep axle flange it all bolted on and works beautifully. The EA was chosen over the earlier models as it has a better design in keeping the mud and dirt out and is very similar to the Cherokee front calipers.
TYRES:
Brand and model:
Size: BFG KO AT’s 275x70x16
Rims:
Brand and model: Auscar Ranger
Material: alloy Size: 16x8.5
BODY MODIFICATIONS:
Any chassis or body mods: Y
If Yes, Details:
Full replacement all steel induction bonnet. Imported it myself from the States and the first to do so. It is made by Reflexxion. At low speeds the hot air vents out of the rear facing opening but at higher speeds it draws colder air in pushing the hot air out under the car. This works better than a forward facing scoop as at four wheel driving speeds when there is little air flow over the bonnet the hot air can rise and vent out. Water and dust at higher speeds is also not forced in through the opening. With a forward facing one at low speeds, the rising hot air can be stopped by the slow moving air trying to pass in and can cancel each other out. Having air forced into the under bonnet area too close to the front can increase the pressure behind the radiator reducing air flow through it as well.
Front guards cut away below the grille.
Checker plate made to fit on lower rear quarter panels.
Chrome mirrors and door handles from US only Laredo model.
Modifications by (name and company):Self
PROTECTION BARS AND PLATES:
Front bar brand, type and material:
Modified ARB Prado bullbar with top tubes removed ( saved 20 kgs in weight ), Hayman Reece hidden towbar fitted inside and approach angle improved by cutting away the lower part of the bar and reducing the amount the centre section comes forward and then tightening the end angles.
Sill bars brand, type and material:
Door sills protected from stone and minor impact damage with docking rubber. It is very thick 2” D section rubber that covers the entire sill and recently when hung up on it carried the car deforming under its weight but returned straight back to original shape once off it.
Rear bars brand, type and material:
Modified ARB 80 series bullbar with top tubes removed and fitted with Hayman Reese towbar and departure angle improved by reducing the amount the centre section comes forward and then tightening the end angles.
Underbody protection plates: material and what do they protect:
Stock protection: Front bash plate to protect steering links.
Transfer case plate.
Fuel tank bash plate.
All from steel.
WINCH:
Brand & model: Hand winch Tirfor type.
Type: Hand_______
Rating: 2500 kgs
I have chosen to use a hand winch so I don’t have the carry the 40 kgs of weight plus the heavier bar needed to support it of a fixed one the rest of the year which reduces mileage, performance, tyre mileage and handling. It will also let me pull from any direction. If I was a weekend warrior still it might be different but as manly a tourer now it just is not worth having it permeant fixed for a couple of uses maximum a year. This would kill an electric winch due to lack of use. If in another 40 years I am too old the use a hand winch I can use an electric winch mounted on a cradle and fit it to either front or rear towbars that I have when needed!
SAFETY AND RECOVERY EQUIPMENT
List all gear usually carried:
2500 kgs hand winch with cable, 30 metre winch extension strap, 8000 lb snatch strap ( for car only ) 11000 lb snatch ( for car and trailer recovery ), drag chain, crane sling, 2 snatch blocks, 2 tree protectors, 4 ton exhaust jack, large selection of rated bow shackles, gloves and a receiver shackle mount. Also a Bushranger Max Air compressor and a tyre plugging kit and a GME MT310 EPIRB. I would also list my triple air horns as it has saved me running into dumb cattle a number of times. They are driven by three air horn compressors. They sound and are loud enough that people think a freight train is coming!