MTB:FS or Hardtail

Which one for XC riding?

  • Full Suspension

    Votes: 9 69.2%
  • Hardtail

    Votes: 4 30.8%

  • Total voters
    13

karstic

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Milwaukee
Recommendations between $500-$1000.
 
I may offend some that work at bike companies, but in that range I'd recommend you go visit my good friends at The Path Bike Shop in Tustin and bring a sixer of good beer. Ask for Mondo or Carl/Hoss and tell 'em I sent you (they'll ask if I'm still alive and you can confirm a sighting). Then have them show you a Kona. ;)

Oh yeah, FS all the way; screw the purists.

PS - research the reviews here: www.mtbr.com
 
gcurtis said:
I may offend some that work at bike companies, but in that range I'd recommend you go visit my good friends at The Path Bike Shop in Tustin and bring a sixer of good beer. Ask for Mondo or Carl/Hoss and tell 'em I sent you (they'll ask if I'm still alive and you can confirm a sighting). Then have them show you a Kona. ;)

Oh yeah, FS all the way; screw the purists.

PS - research the reviews here: www.mtbr.com

I called those guys today to ask them if they could rebuild my Specialized FS suspension forks. "Are you serious?!?", that was his reply.
 
karstic said:
I called those guys today to ask them if they could rebuild my Specialized FS suspension forks. "Are you serious?!?", that was his reply.

Hahahaha! If they were old Rockshox I might agree. :)

How old are the forks and what model?

Look at it this way, at least they didn't try to sell you something you didn't need. ;)

If you really want to rebuild them you may also try Switchback Cyclery in Orange (on Chapman and Prospect) and again, drop my name to Tim or Sherry (again, confirm a sighting) and see what Tim can do. Good peeps, you'd like 'em.
 
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Like I said Specialized FS (air/oil), I think they may be Rock Shox in Specialized clothing AT LEAST 6 years old.
 
$1000 is a tough limit for a new ride but FS is much easier on the body and can improve you're riding experience. There are people out there who will tell you a ridgid SS is the only real bike but owning one has shown me how bad they are on wrists, shoulders, backs etc. Shop used on mtbr.com and you can save huge $$$$. Cannondale is selling the old Jeckyl bike for about $1000.
 
karstic said:
Like I said Specialized FS (air/oil), I think they may be Rock Shox in Specialized clothing AT LEAST 6 years old.

If it is what I think it is, then it may be impossible to get parts/seals for. You can gut it yourself and do Ecoair's kit that works reasonably well or bring it over and I can convert it for you. However, instead of gobs of cash on it, I'd head over to Ebay and shop for a good coil spring fork, perhaps a Marz that is a non-take off, and pick one up at auction; they go pretty cheap most of the time (I've sold about ten over there and know first hand). Just be sure the steerer tube is long enough (measure your current one).

Or, call Carl/Mondo/Tani up and ask if they are selling any used forks or take offs that are worth a darn. They usually have some loaners that they are getting rid of and one may be my old Black (which I'd recommend you stay away from... rides well, breaks easily).
 
slowrider said:
$1000 is a tough limit for a new ride but FS is much easier on the body and can improve you're riding experience. There are people out there who will tell you a ridgid SS is the only real bike but owning one has shown me how bad they are on wrists, shoulders, backs etc. Shop used on mtbr.com and you can save huge $$$$. Cannondale is selling the old Jeckyl bike for about $1000.

What he said. I sold my Surly 1x1 a year ago and only keep a single road bike. Go squish, brah.
 
karstic said:
I called those guys today to ask them if they could rebuild my Specialized FS suspension forks. "Are you serious?!?", that was his reply.

Why would you call anyone to rebuild that thing? Shops don't need stupid questions like that. They are busy doing nothing this time of year :rolleyes:

I told you in my PM that the only guys that might be able to do it is http://www.hippiesuspension.com/hippietechsuspension/
 
cracker said:
Why would you call anyone to rebuild that thing? Shops don't need stupid questions like that. They are busy doing nothing this time of year :rolleyes:

I told you in my PM that the only guys that might be able to do it is http://www.hippiesuspension.com/hippietechsuspension/

I called those guys and left a voicemail, haven't heard bake from them yet.
 
gcurtis said:
If a certain someone (quoted above) tries to put you in a certain tight fitting and very gay fabric, resist at all costs.

Suck my ass Grant. Too bad your too fat to get in them anymore.

Where are those axle dimensions?
 
I knew this was gonna turn into a bitch fest between you two. I can't wait til Johnny chimes in.
 
karstic said:
I called those guys and left a voicemail, haven't heard bake from them yet.

They are a weird bunch.

Give them time.
 
Alls I want to do it get them rideable again until I can cough up the $$$ for a new ride. I rode last night (till my seat rail broke) and it was like riding a wet noodle.
 
cracker said:
Suck my ass Grant. Too bad your too fat to get in them anymore.

Where are those axle dimensions?

Hahaha! Fat and getting slimmer, lycra-boy. Let me guess, you also ride one of those ass hatchets for a seat and shave those pretty girly legs so that you look good all uniformed up in your tights and glistening with sun screen. Dude, go ride in WeHo with Ryan Gaycrest already. We get it, there is no more need to bash it into our colletive conscious with photos of your ass crack in black form fitting fabric.

Oh yeah, dimensions. 28.2665 on pass and 30.7635 on driver's side
 
karstic said:
Alls I want to do it get them rideable again until I can cough up the $$$ for a new ride. I rode last night (till my seat rail broke) and it was like riding a wet noodle.

If your fork is toasted and you ride on it it may not be repairable

What size it is the steerer tube? (1", 1 1./8", or 1 1/4")

Is it threaded or threadless?

I may know where some crap it.

BTW if it is a new fork it may not be compatible with cantilever brakes then you will need V-brakes. If you need V-brakes you will definitly need levers (or use one of those gay adapters). If your shifters are connected to your levers you will need new shifters.

It is like opening a box of worms.
 
karstic said:
Alls I want to do it get them rideable again until I can cough up the $$$ for a new ride. I rode last night (till my seat rail broke) and it was like riding a wet noodle.

I have a good seat you can have if you want it. That is if Cracker Seacrest doesn't ask for it first. Selle Italia Flite Gel with Ti rails - a real ass hatchet.
 
For under the $1000 criteria, I'd say go quality hard tail. You can get deals on used FS though for that money, so depends which way you wanna go. If interested you can check out www.bikeforums.net for some advice. A lot will tell ya to search and check out reviews, not unlike here.
 
1" threaded, v-brake, brake levers/shifters seperate.
 
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