my main objection was the idiot box, the box only fits when the studs have found home, but the length of the studs keeps the box out of position - for the box to fit the studs have to be in their holes, but you can't reach the holes because the studs are holding the box in the wrong position - too far back into the lower edge of the upper dashboard
also the bottom stud of the two closest together fell into a stiffening channel in the sheet metal of the firewall, it was almost impossible to get it out of the track it was in to line it up with the hole
If I had to do it again, I would remove the uppermost stud, as the lower two can be seen from underneath, and locate them. The top stud can be replaced with a bolt from the engine side of the firewall. With the fan motor out, alignment can be made reaching through the firewall opening to jockey the box around.
My studs spun, I had to hold them with vise grips on their tips and work the nuts loose. One of them spun completely out of the box. When I had it all out I was able to re-install them before I put it back in. The coarse thread should be easy to find a replacement for.
There are other vehicles I have removed the entire dash boards from, I was not impressed with the design of this particular area. Some of the fasteners were 7mm hex heads, where a straight slot 1/4" would have been a lot easier to deal with,or even, a straight slotted 7mm for that matter.
It just wasn't enjoyable to work on. Nor was it easy. It was annoying working inverted and a general pain in the butt. There was little to no thought behind access or ease of maintenance. You were supposed to buy a new vehicle before the core wore out. It's cheap plastic and bargain basement fasteners to save .$03 during assembly.
If I have to do it again I will use this to fix the problem;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3xsMqHu56g