Mild Jeepspeed built Rig as A DD??

It was Billy Bunch in the Red 1749. A long time ago I talked to John at Ajax Auto who was a part of this team and I think he said they were National Springs and that they could get 14 - 15 inches of travel easily from this set up.

Chris
That's it! And last I talked to Deaver, they were saying they could easily build a spring to pull 18-20. While that much rear travel probably wouldn't do you much good, it'd be nice to have a spring capable of it to keep a better spring rate, more consistent.

I know a few class 3 guys used to or still do run spring unders on their Jeep's as well.
 
Yes... that's what we said. More travel, better spring rate, less axle wrap. Why the argument in the first place?

I'm sorry I miss typed i meant to say "wouldn't get a bunch more travel". Your spring rate shouldn't change. It would for sure help axle wrap though.

18-20 you're dreamin
 
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18-20 is a lot for a pack thats not something like an f55 or f67. We have the f55 pack on our toyota with 12" shackles and we are strapped at 19.
 
Yes, it is. The shackles are where you're getting the travel though. By going spring under on a Jeep you'll be able to run a longer shackle, giving you quite a bit more droop.

I think you and I see eye to eye often enough I might not have to tell you this but I was not trying to prove you wrong. I thinks its possible Im just wanting to point out the fact that its a lot of travel so the noobs dont start a bunch of new topics about how to make a rough country pack cycle 20+"

All good Jim.
 
I have been thinking about doing a bigger leaf like a 6+" lift with some long shackles on a very low angle like more then \ if possible. I was thinking of making my own shackle relocation boxes to do this.
see I wasnt that far off...
 
I think you and I see eye to eye often enough I might not have to tell you this but I was not trying to prove you wrong. I thinks its possible Im just wanting to point out the fact that its a lot of travel so the noobs dont start a bunch of new topics about how to make a rough country pack cycle 20+"

All good Jim.
Oh no I know dude! I didn't think you were trying to prove me wrong, and you're right. That's a LOT of travel to pull out of a short leaf pack. From what I understand, that was what they saw with leaf pack they had built at one time. It never really went anywhere, because JS outlaws SUA. And with not many people building jeep's outside of JS class rules, there really isn't/wasn't a market for them. But not all of us only want 10" of travel ;) You know this more than anybody haha.

My plans eventually are to go spring under. Realistically, the only way I'm gonna see if it'll work is to do it. Once I do, I can give a report back on it I suppose, until then it's all speculation.
 
Hey... Talk to Deaver. I've never run it, who knows. Then again, neither have you? :spin1:

I'm kinda questioning it too. On my toyota prerunner the springs are 62 inches with a super long 12" shackle to pull the travel numbers your quoting. Also with that much travel you'll have to fab up a wishbone to the rear end to prevent duck walking.

-Randy
 
To bring the post back on topic, I think the orginal poster wanted to have a DD while being able to run a dez course.

As most rigs tend to become trailer queens like mine has, I'd advise you to build your rig to JeepSpeed specs so that if you do decide to eventually race or sell it to someone that does, it would be an easy transition to JeepSpeed. Stay spring over and follow the old sportsman rules.

Sportsman JeepSpeeds were pretty much as close as you can get to being a street legal DD and can very easily transition to a competitive JS. Sportsman required stock dash, windshield, rear hatch, stock axles and 2.5 smooth bodied shocks. 10" travel dront, 12" travel rear, cage, fuelcell other safety items. One of these rigs could be built pretty economically too and still have an easy time to upgrade to the current competitive JS rigs.

Does anyone have the old official sportsman rules?

-Randy
 
Oh no I know dude! I didn't think you were trying to prove me wrong, and you're right. That's a LOT of travel to pull out of a short leaf pack. From what I understand, that was what they saw with leaf pack they had built at one time. It never really went anywhere, because JS outlaws SUA. And with not many people building jeep's outside of JS class rules, there really isn't/wasn't a market for them. But not all of us only want 10" of travel ;) You know this more than anybody haha.

My plans eventually are to go spring under. Realistically, the only way I'm gonna see if it'll work is to do it. Once I do, I can give a report back on it I suppose, until then it's all speculation.


I wonder if a set of f55 or f67 would be worth the effort? I bet you could get close to that 20" mark with custom spring mounts(of course) and an extreme shackle setup. That would be sick but most of it would be down travel anyway, I dont think you can get much more uptravel out of the stock wheelwells to even max out a replacement pack.
 
I wonder if a set of f55 or f67 would be worth the effort? I bet you could get close to that 20" mark with custom spring mounts(of course) and an extreme shackle setup. That would be sick but most of it would be down travel anyway, I dont think you can get much more uptravel out of the stock wheelwells to even max out a replacement pack.
I've thought about that on numerous occasions, but then at that point you might as well go links like dan is doing. But, springs could still be cheaper.


Also, who says you have to keep the stock wheel wells? Dean (RynoXJ) on here has a tubbed rear with some decent sized wheel wells.


Nothing wrong with down travel anyway ;)
 
I've thought about that on numerous occasions, but then at that point you might as well go links like dan is doing. But, springs could still be cheaper.


Also, who says you have to keep the stock wheel wells? Dean (RynoXJ) on here has a tubbed rear with some decent sized wheel wells.


Nothing wrong with down travel anyway ;)

Indeed, controlled uptravel with gobs of droop is not a bad way to be.
 
To bring the post back on topic, I think the orginal poster wanted to have a DD while being able to run a dez course.

As most rigs tend to become trailer queens like mine has, I'd advise you to build your rig to JeepSpeed specs so that if you do decide to eventually race or sell it to someone that does, it would be an easy transition to JeepSpeed. Stay spring over and follow the old sportsman rules.

Sportsman JeepSpeeds were pretty much as close as you can get to being a street legal DD and can very easily transition to a competitive JS. Sportsman required stock dash, windshield, rear hatch, stock axles and 2.5 smooth bodied shocks. 10" travel dront, 12" travel rear, cage, fuelcell other safety items. One of these rigs could be built pretty economically too and still have an easy time to upgrade to the current competitive JS rigs.

Does anyone have the old official sportsman rules? (x2)

-Randy
I want to build my 1992 xj in a Sportsman JeepSpeeds without a cage or fuel cell. Its still needs to be a daily drive 1st and foremost, thats why no cage or fuelcell. Needs to pass smog,I want a xj that can do it all , lit rock crawling , prerunning , and be my daily driver.
Thanks for all the input
 
I want to build my 1992 xj in a Sportsman JeepSpeeds without a cage or fuel cell. Its still needs to be a daily drive 1st and foremost, thats why no cage or fuelcell. Needs to pass smog,I want a xj that can do it all , lit rock crawling , prerunning , and be my daily driver.
Thanks for all the input

If it were me, I'd start with suspension and shocks. For the front, I'd recommend the Rubicon Express Long arm kit. The long arm kit makes it easy to cyce and get the geometry right. You can get short arms to kits work well just like Ray Griffith and his Currie kit, it just takes a little more effort to dial everything in.

For springs, you can't go wrong with deavers for both back and front.

Get a good set of 2.5" King/Saw/Fox shock etc.

All of this should perform very well for everything you want to do as well as being a daily driver. The great thing about JeepSpeed is that pretty much everything is off the shelf and it's an easy transition into offroad racing if you want to later.

-Randy
 
If it were me, I'd start with suspension and shocks. For the front, I'd recommend the Rubicon Express Long arm kit. The long arm kit makes it easy to cyce and get the geometry right. You can get short arms to kits work well just like Ray Griffith and his Currie kit, it just takes a little more effort to dial everything in.

For springs, you can't go wrong with deavers for both back and front.

Get a good set of 2.5" King/Saw/Fox shock etc.

All of this should perform very well for everything you want to do as well as being a daily driver. The great thing about JeepSpeed is that pretty much everything is off the shelf and it's an easy transition into offroad racing if you want to later.

-Randy
How would a radius long arm kit be good for prerunning? A lot of people dont even like them the crawling. ? P,s thanks for the input.
 
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