MIDAS blew up my Jeep ...

[FlyNNN]

Today's measurements; It seems every day the system seems to be getting better. Today it idled for 15-20 minutes and the needle was just barely past centre. Haven't seen that since "you know when".

I removed the dash coolant temperature sender and measured 212 ohm cold. The value never stayed in one place and continually climbed in value. I noticed what appears to be some type of washer and that it is starting to deteriorate. See picture below. Some of the washer material was on the sensor surface area. I don't know if it was always there or just when I was removing it. Upon removal from boiling water I measured 1500 ohms and climbing. No where near what EcoMike is expecting to see. Again, I did some IR measurements and the dash gauge measured around 103 (just past center) and the IR gun measured 108. Other values;

Lower rad 39
lower rad hose = 40

Bottle = 34

Upper rad = 69
Upper Rad hose = 61

Head, front = 109
Head, back = 108

Thermostat housing = 65
EGR = 40
Intake manifold = 58

I also took a socket to some of the valve cover nuts that I could easily access and just gave them a little extra tweak. Having said all of that, everything looks back to normal at this point in time. Yes, you heard that right, normal. I'll have to go for a few drives in the next few days and see if it stays that way.

 

[Ecomike]

That sure sounds like a bad sensor to me:

I removed the dash coolant temperature sender and measured 212 ohm cold. The value never stayed in one place and continually climbed in value. I noticed what appears to be some type of washer and that it is starting to deteriorate. See picture below. Some of the washer material was on the sensor surface area. I don't know if it was always there or just when I was removing it. Upon removal from boiling water I measured 1500 ohms and climbing. No where near what EcoMike is expecting to see.

Do not buy an aftermarket one, I have yet to find one that works right on Renix. Get a dealer one (or several at a JY, but test them first, take your meter!!!).

Once you have tested, and verified the sensor is good in ice water (4 C) and in boiling water (100 C) , then you can worry about whether the dash gauge is working right, next. That is actually my next project, ordeal, LOL.

Those head temps still seem a little high. Have you check the coolant tank when cold, to make sure it is 50% full?

 

[Ecomike]

BTW, where do I send my $3800 invoice?:scared:

LMAO!!!!

 

[FlyNNN]

Do not buy an aftermarket one, I have yet to find one that works right on Renix. Get a dealer one (or several at a JY, but test them first, take your meter!!!).
Those head temps still seem a little high. Have you check the coolant tank when cold, to make sure it is 50% full?

- Recommendation will be heeded, no aftermarket. That would have been my first step. Hate to find out what the dealer will charge. I'm sure I got an extra one around here, I just can't find it now. The data might not be what was expected, but the end result is the dash gauge which appears to be where it should be.
- Coolant bottle is probably about 95% full right now. Lost a little bit of coolant during the removal of the sensor. Probably a little too much coolant in the system. Turkey baster or I'll just let it purge any excess. The gurgling of air is very minimal right now compared to when we started this adventure.
- Instead of wiring up a manual switch for the e-fan, I ordered a Beck Arnley 201-1545 Thermo Fan Switch from Amazon. Turns on sooner around 180 instead of the 195 with the stock sensor (in theory). I'll see how that works out.
- I'll go back through the data and do some comparisons on the head temperatures. Good to have an audit trail for future reference.

 

[FlyNNN]

BTW, where do I send my $3800 invoice? LMAO!!!!:scared:

No sh#t! I'm in you debt and the others who helped along the way. Over-all, there have been positives as a result. Lessons learned;
1. Two, once trusted, auto service centers are now blacklisted.
2. Reliable RENIX procedure for coolant fill/air purge.
3. Thermostat replacement.
4. Made good use of the IR temperature detector.
5. Got closer to the engine and its behavior.
6. Lastly, don't let anyone touch your frick'n vehicle if you can!

 

[FlyNNN]

Jeep is now "clattering". I thought about starting a new thread on this topic but since it started to occur after my vehicle was returned to me from MIDAS, it shall remain here.

The clattering noise is becoming more prominent and I am worried. I mentioned this back in post #105, but we focused on the more immediate concerns of cooling at the time. The noise is coming from the bottom end of the engine. Doesn't occur right away at start up. Takes a few minutes before being noticeable. I was forced to use a FRAM filter a couple of weeks ago but have since replaced it with a NAPA Gold. I'm noticing more fluctuation in the oil pressure gauge, swinging from 3/4's at startup to sometimes slightly below middle. I've checked the oil and it was down from a full fill a couple of weeks ago. Checked exhaust and water vapor deposits on that end. Please review my short YouTube video and share your thoughts.

http://tinyurl.com/jeep-audio3

 

[Ecomike]

That is not the engine (not internal), but sounds like a loose bolt(s) and bracket rattle, could be just about any place, exhaust pipe bracket, engine mount, transmission mount (less likely in park, but their an exhaust pipe bracket there!!!), front drive train bracket (power steering, alternator....), any thing you loosened recently??????

Mine does that on loose, cracked front grills on my jeeps that have seen to many fender bender days.

 

[FlyNNN]

That is not the engine (not internal), but sounds like a loose bolt(s) ...

I'm glad to hear something positive, I hope you are right. It sure sounds to be more-so coming from lower front, passenger side. I've got the front end on ramps, I'll get back underneath there and look again while its cold.

 

[Ecomike]

Check the transmission lines to the radiator too, just check everything, look for anything that is loose enough to vibrate and knock against something solid as it vibrates.

 

[FlyNNN]

Jeep is now "clattering". I thought about starting a new thread on this topic but since it started to occur after my vehicle was returned to me from MIDAS, it shall remain here.

The clattering noise is becoming more prominent and I am worried. I mentioned this back in post #105, but we focused on the more immediate concerns of cooling at the time. The noise is coming from the bottom end of the engine.
http://tinyurl.com/jeep-audio3

Update: this noise turned out being the alternator pulley. I did not find it myself. I ended up returning to the shop that replaced my harmonic balancer thinking possible warranty issue. Alternator was a 100A reman, 10 years old with no warranty. Shop sold me a new 100A reman with lifetime replacement ... how long can I keep this 1990 RENIX going? Total for this adventure ... $560. Would have been nice if someone picked up on this. No MIDAS to blame on this, just coincidental.

 

[Ecomike]

So it was the muffler bearings in the alternator after all?

LOL

I assume you mean alternator Bearing, not pulley?

Total for this adventure ... $560.

I hope that was not just for the alternator?

 

[FlyNNN]

I assume you mean alternator Bearing, not pulley?

Yes, my mistake, rear bearing ... you are correct.

I hope that was not just for the alternator?

Alternator cost = $260.