Low Idle Renix Questions

Ground refreshing, C101 cleaning and connection tightening, engine sensor connector cleaning and tightening,and ECU connector cleaning and tightening are often overlooked.

Sad part is it costs nothing out of pocket and very little time to perform these procedures. People just resist believing something so simple could solve their complicated running problems.

I haven't done the ECU connector yet but all of the grounds, connectors have been cleaned and checked for resistance. My TPS is now hard wired and I'm considering hard wireing the CPS.
 
CPS wouldn't cause a low or poor idle.

I suggest unplugging every engine management connector in the engine bay, squeezing the female receptacles slightly, cleaning with a good quality electronics cleaner, applying dielectric grease and then plugging back in.
 
Recently after buying this Renix 4.0 XJ Phewjoe, had similar rpm stages upon start-up, i.e., high, to med, to low.., hmmm... So, I added a can of "SeaFoam" to my fuel, and cleaned my engine bay grounding points, (conditioned firewall strap, and both sides, battery ground, and leads around dip-stick, etc.), sprayed with anti-corossion marine stuff, and have not looked back since.., i.e., fire's-up and stabilizes within 2 seconds. Really appreciate the "Team-work" 'ya all exhibit here at NAXJA. I have much to learn.., so thanks.
 
I had a # 6 injector staying open, long story, but problem turned out to be a short in the c101 connector. Cut, soldered and heat shrinked all the wire one at a time and the car has run great since. If you have a car with a c101 connector, your first step should be to bypass it.
 
Recently after buying this Renix 4.0 XJ Phewjoe, had similar rpm stages upon start-up, i.e., high, to med, to low.., hmmm... So, I added a can of "SeaFoam" to my fuel, and cleaned my engine bay grounding points, (conditioned firewall strap, and both sides, battery ground, and leads around dip-stick, etc.), sprayed with anti-corossion marine stuff, and have not looked back since.., i.e., fire's-up and stabilizes within 2 seconds. Really appreciate the "Team-work" 'ya all exhibit here at NAXJA. I have much to learn.., so thanks.

Glad to hear it.
 
I had a # 6 injector staying open, long story, but problem turned out to be a short in the c101 connector. Cut, soldered and heat shrinked all the wire one at a time and the car has run great since. If you have a car with a c101 connector, your first step should be to bypass it.

Glad to hear it. I agree with ground cleaning, C101 cleaning/bypass etc. Too bad so many here don't wanna go that route and fight unwinable battles instead..........
 
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