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Low Engine Temps
- Thread starter Blue XJ
- Start date
RaccoonJoe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
I'm not sure about that.....I have dual e-fans (triggered by a manual switch), and my temp goes from 200 to 160 if I go from idle to roughly 2k RPM. I've got to hold it there for a coupla seconds, tho....(e-fans turned off)langer1 said:
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RaccoonJoe
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fort Wayne, IN
OK. Some ideas that I've got.
I've got the same low engine temp issues that others are having. I've replaced upper/lower rad hoses, new pressure tank, and put in OEM t-stat (after several failures with non-OEM t-stats)
This weekend, I'm going to do some major work. First thing, I'm putting in a new temp sending unit. I've got a couple here. If those don't change anything, I'm replacing both heater hoses, adding one of the T fillers (they go inline in the heater hoses, used for flushing), and replacing my vented hood with a stock (non-vented) one. If I still have problems, I'm seriously thinking of adding a vent hole (with a machine screw tapped in) to the t-stat housing.
Is there anything I've missed?? I'm kinda at my wits end here. If I can't get this fixed this weekend, I'm taking it to a "professional", to get it all tested....
I've got the same low engine temp issues that others are having. I've replaced upper/lower rad hoses, new pressure tank, and put in OEM t-stat (after several failures with non-OEM t-stats)
This weekend, I'm going to do some major work. First thing, I'm putting in a new temp sending unit. I've got a couple here. If those don't change anything, I'm replacing both heater hoses, adding one of the T fillers (they go inline in the heater hoses, used for flushing), and replacing my vented hood with a stock (non-vented) one. If I still have problems, I'm seriously thinking of adding a vent hole (with a machine screw tapped in) to the t-stat housing.
Is there anything I've missed?? I'm kinda at my wits end here. If I can't get this fixed this weekend, I'm taking it to a "professional", to get it all tested....
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
Well one thing for sure, for cooling you need both Air flow and Water flow, neither one by itself will cool anything for long.
Your change from 200 to 160 at 2k is more likly caused by the voltage change from 12v to 14v at 2k.
Your change from 200 to 160 at 2k is more likly caused by the voltage change from 12v to 14v at 2k.
streetpirate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Oregon City, OR
langer1 said:
touche!
thats the best thing ive heard in the past few pages of this thread!
Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
What do you mean, the increase in voltage from revving the alternator causes the temp gauge to drop?
streetpirate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Oregon City, OR
maybe
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
Blaine B. said:
Just the way it's wired, the temp gauge is electrical and will go up and down as the voltage goes up and down.
There is a gage regulator thats suppose to prevent it, but ones it goes bad it don't stop the gage from changing when the voltage going to it changes.
streetpirate
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Oregon City, OR
played around with voltage draw and gauge reading, its not the charging system.
i cant even believe that the gauge is off at all at this point. it has to be that the 195 thermostats we are buying are opening at lower temperatures.
when the coolant is flowing through the rad, temps are ~160, at idle temps are ~195, (tested by putting it in neutral on the highway and letting rpm sit at 700 while coasting, temps started to go up a little) , and when i shut the engine off the temp quickly goes up to the 210 mark.
when i start it back up after sitting for 2 minutes, (gauge still showing 210) it immediately drops back to a little below 160 (cold rad coolant rushing in all at once) and gets back up to ~195 after about 45 seconds of idling.
my cooling system is in great shape, ive replaced everything but the radiator, and it runs a perfect 195-200 temp any any weather from the mid fiftys to the 120's.
its got to be the colder weather and and lots of 195 t-stats in the parts stores that open too early.
i cant even believe that the gauge is off at all at this point. it has to be that the 195 thermostats we are buying are opening at lower temperatures.
when the coolant is flowing through the rad, temps are ~160, at idle temps are ~195, (tested by putting it in neutral on the highway and letting rpm sit at 700 while coasting, temps started to go up a little) , and when i shut the engine off the temp quickly goes up to the 210 mark.
when i start it back up after sitting for 2 minutes, (gauge still showing 210) it immediately drops back to a little below 160 (cold rad coolant rushing in all at once) and gets back up to ~195 after about 45 seconds of idling.
my cooling system is in great shape, ive replaced everything but the radiator, and it runs a perfect 195-200 temp any any weather from the mid fiftys to the 120's.
its got to be the colder weather and and lots of 195 t-stats in the parts stores that open too early.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
yeah actually the voltage regulator in the cluster is in the coolant gauge. pull a cluster from a junkyard and see if your numbers change.
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
The temperature can't change instantly, I'm telling you it's the gage.
The Gage is reading correct at 12v engine off, but it is not correct with the engine running 13.5 to 14volts.
Personally I thought the gage voltage regulator was in the Oil pressure gage.
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Blaine B.
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northwest Indiana
Hm, interesting. Sometimes upon acceleration my temp gauge would go down at a slow pace. I figured it was becuase the water pump was spinning faster.
Although I suppose both could be contributing factors.
Interesting.
Although I suppose both could be contributing factors.
Interesting.
langer1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Mineral City,Ohio
The key word was changed instantly, thats electrical, a slow change is cooling.