Long rod stroker parts

[David_Bricker]

I have a piston and connecting rod combination that is a vast improvement over anything else in the market but is still targeted to the budget minded engine builder.

My steel bushed 6.125 connecting rod is equipped with ARP 3/8 8740 cap-screw rod bolts with caps located by stainless dowels. Small comes bushed allowing for a full floating pin.
If purchased with my Pistons I'll upgrade the wrist pin to a much lighter and stronger .927 Chevy pin.
Both ends are fully profiled lessening total rod weight by approximately hundred grams.
By removing the balance pad and replacing it with a strengthening rib on the cap makes it much easier to retain the factory main girdle in a stroker application.
If you factor in the cost of rebuilding a stock 4.0 cast rod with replacement 11/32 ARP bolts,
balance the set end to end, Pay your machine shop to press the old Pistons off and install the new you should be pretty close to the cost of my rods at $325.00 a set.

Pistons are made out of a 4032 high silicone aluminum alloy, it has great wear resistance, a low expansion rate, is very durable, and low in friction.
Unlike my competitors I stock pistons in over 10 dish volumes and compression distances that allow for minimal to no decking of the block to achieve a zero deck for a tight quench.
Pistons come pin fit with either the factory diameter .931 pin or a .927 Chevy upgrade for $495.00 a set.


Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: [email protected]

Where was this 4 years ago?

David Bricker / SYR

 

[RCP Phx]

I'm curious why you prefer the h-beams?

For the little difference in price, the strength/rigidity brings me great comfort, and I tend to over-build everything!

 

[RCP Phx]

Get all my duck's in a row!

Well since this is my daily driver and I'm trying to keep the build time to a minimum I won't tear in to the motor until I receive my parts from Russ.

What I've got so far:

Gaskets/seals(Felpro)
Main, rod, and cam bearings(Clevite 77)
New timing set(Cloyes)
New lifters(Sealed Power)
ARP main stud kit
ARP flex plate bolts
Banks Revolver header(would like to install it now to get the down pipe/O2 bung made)
BBK 62mm throttle body(already installed)
Brown Dog motor mounts

What I currently have on order with Russ:

Scat crankshaft
B-B connecting rods
B-B piston set
Comp cams camshaft

What I need:

Tear the motor down
Send the block to my local machinist
Send the head and intake to Russ
Head gasket
Piston rings
New flex plate(and balance)

Hopefully I've thought of everything(and hopefully I won't need to deal with pushrods)

recently new:

CCH 0331 head
HarlanSharp roller rockers
ARP rocker studs
Melling HV oil pump
Griffin radiator
Water pump, hoses, and t-stat

 

[cal]

Don't forget a new harmonic balancer and water pump.

 

[RCP Phx]

I've been looking into HP dampers but haven't found much. Also been thinking about a Hesco pump!

Also just did the 4-hole injectors.

 

[RCP Phx]

Well I received my crank, rods, and pistons Wednesday!! Went thru everything that night, while weighing everything out I discovered a mis-match in the wrist pins(a new set is on the way from Russ). Yesterday I tore the motor apart( http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1131249 ) and found the second issue. Today I got the head and intake ready to ship off to Russ, and the block will go to my regular guy! I also bought a timing set for my 2k and the cam takes the earlier set!

 

[Russ Pottenger]

Ron,
Converting the later style cam and lock plate over to the earlier style cam that uses the drilled bolt spring and pin has greater advantages. The biggest disadvantage of the later cam is that nobody makes a double roller timing set for it. I stock and recommend the Rollmaster set. Also the cam cores are sold at a premium. Your original quote included the cam bolt kit which I can send.

 

[RCP Phx]

What's sad is I've owned 5 XJ's and never been inside a I-6! But the 2K nuances are driving me nuts! So do I just "eliminate" the 2K "thrust plate" completely? Do I have to do anything else?

 

[Russ Pottenger]

You toss the plate and replace it with the earlier style bolt pin and spring.
I'll send one out today for you. The part number is 8350 2890-001 for anybody else that needs to source it

 

[RCP Phx]

I received my Rollmaster set yesterday, it's really well built. Anyway someone asked about adjusting the timing recently...............

Which adjustable timing set do you have? because I have yet to see one.

When was the last time you dialed in your cam? How often do you dial it in?


I'm +4 at the crank, Mopar Performance (Cloyes) double roller. Most guys bitch and complain about $60 for a stock set...........


You?