Looking at upgrading to a long arm set up for the front of my 95. Have found bolt-on (no welding) options from Rusty's and Iron Rock. Was wondering if anyone has experience with those (or any others) and what your thoughts are. This is a trail only rig that gets wheeled maybe 4 times a year, so I'm not looking to go crazy.
Long Arm Upgrade - Opinions?
- Thread starter Faz95XJ
- Start date
- Location
- Thornton, CO
I see you found the cheap ones. TnT, BDS, Full Traction, CavFab, Clayton to name a few. Neither Rusty's nor IRO are typically the preferred options.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
^^^^^^^ x10
jeeptec
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- atascadero california
I'm running core 4x4 long arm non high clearance kit. It was all bolt on. It use a nice rubber bushing on the long arms. Urathane on the upper short arms. I did have to modify my exhaust going over the crossmember but my is a 2000 with California emissions. The only thing I don't like about the system is the adjuster lock nuts on the long arms the nuts will come loose with hard use or flexing. Then you have an annoying rattle.
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- Location
- Warsaw, IN
If i had to do it, i would go with the Clayton's kit. One thing i suggest is to make sure the center crossmember is removable just in case you need to service the trans or transfer case.
- Location
- San Diego
I have an IRO long arm on my 97. The kit is fine, flexes like crazy, and is very well built. A lot of people don't like the caster adjustment setup, but I haven't had any problems with it. It's a good kit for the money, and IRO is a good company to deal with. I did weld on the outer brackets to my frame stiffiners, I didn't trust just the 6 bolts to hold everything on. I've bought a lot of parts from them over the years.
On my 95, I used the TNT long arm kit. Very well built. That is a good set up and I would recommend that kit for anyone. Really beefy.
I am currently amassing parts for my 99 2 door build. I'm going to try a 3 link kit on that one. Leaning towards Clayton, but I'm looking at a couple of others.
Welding is not that big of a deal, don't let that be a deal breaker. A shop or someone you know with welding skills can burn it in in no time. Just takes a little bit of prep.
Hope that helps.
On my 95, I used the TNT long arm kit. Very well built. That is a good set up and I would recommend that kit for anyone. Really beefy.
I am currently amassing parts for my 99 2 door build. I'm going to try a 3 link kit on that one. Leaning towards Clayton, but I'm looking at a couple of others.
Welding is not that big of a deal, don't let that be a deal breaker. A shop or someone you know with welding skills can burn it in in no time. Just takes a little bit of prep.
Hope that helps.
- Location
- Southern Maryland
Full Traction is pretty much bolt-on (need to cut off the stock LCA buckets but no welding)
Synergy has some mid-arm buckets that bolt onto the frame, still my favorite
Synergy has some mid-arm buckets that bolt onto the frame, still my favorite
TRCM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Newport News,VA
How much lift do you want ?
If you don't wheel any more than that, I'd go drop brackets and be done with it.
I put them on mine as a precursor to long arms, but now, not so sure long arms are gonna be worth it if I stay @ 6" or less lift.
Am running drop brackets already and hate them. They get caught on everything... but my lift has sagged somewhat as well.
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VAhasnoWAVES
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lake City, Mi
its less than 20" of weld. bribe a buddy with a 6 pack and have him burn it on.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
The best "bang for your buck" in my mind would be the TNT kit!
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
You couldn't pay me to put Rusty's anything on my truck. I've seen his welds fail in street use- once on a friend's XJ while backing out of the driveway.
Clayton are what I run, and what I'll likely run on the wife's ZJ here soon.
Clayton are what I run, and what I'll likely run on the wife's ZJ here soon.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Can confirm that Core4X4 are nice products as well. They're in the running for the wife's ZJ. I presently have a full set of their adjustable length arms on the ZJ and I'm very pleased.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Regarding the Clayton's kit. Yes, this... but make sure your buddy is a good weldor. Certification isn't required, but more than just posession of a welder is.
WyoCherokee
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Sheridan, Wy
I am running the Cav-Fab 3 link, and love it.
long arm cross members no matter who makes should be welded on no matter what. If you don't you are a fool
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
Going to have to disagree with this. *Properly engineered*, a bolt-on solution will work. But by no means do you want to just bolt it in place of the tranny crossmember and call it done.
kcox506
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Concord, NC
I would have to step in and agree. The forces involved warrant a properly attached bracket for the arms. Unless you want to get at least 4 bolts a side to grab the frame, which would mean drilling holes and welding threaded bosses if done correctly. Regardless, the cost to benefit ratio means that welding a frame bracket for a 3 or 4 link setup and have removable center section really isn't all that much in comparison.
From a radius arm perspective, the Rubicon Express crossmember works well. Not only does it grab three frame bolts, but there's a pinch seam nutstrip as well. Then the boat sides. In that Capacity, a bolt on operation would be justified. I'm in the business of doing it right and the most correct fashion. I've played the "its good enough" game and would much rather go all in.
But thats just me.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
I'm with you, but from an engineering standpoint, a bolt-on affair can be made to work, and work well.
Welding? Always better, *if it's done right*.
Welding? Always better, *if it's done right*.
