LockTight on Control Arm Bolts?

[MrSimon]

Sorry if this is a stupid noob question ..... but, I'm still a noob with all this.

The last couple times I've taken the front suspension apart, I re-assembled it using lots of anti-sieze. I went to take it apart last night to install some drop brackets and I noticed that all of the bolts on my upper control arms were loose. Loose to the point where I just took the nuts off by hand. And all of my jam nuts were just spinning freely. I'm not sure, but I think that is kinda bad.

I'm thinking I should clean off all the anti-sieze, use some red lock tight on everything, and torque everything to the proper factory recommended specs.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't use lock-tight on the CA bolts?

 

[muduck18]

IIRC, the stock CA nuts are pinch lock nuts that act like lock nuts and shouldn't need the locktight, but there no reason why you shouldn't use locktight...
that being said...
don't worry about factory spec's torque those suckers down as tight as you can them them
and check them often, if it happens again that they are that loose, get new Grade 8 bolts and lock nuts...

$0.02

 

[Andy in Pa.]

I wouldn't use locktite.. those bolts rust to the CA collars easily as it is, no need to help the process. Sounds like you need new nuts. The factory nuts are a metal "pinch" nut, but can and do wear out. When you get it all apart, take the bolt over to Ace Hardware in Thorndale. They have new metal lock-nuts in both metric and SAE. Or just match up the bolt and get all new hardware. Put anti-sieze on all the hardware and put it back together, so it will come apart easily the NEXT time your taking it apart (when you put on the long arms in 5 months:jester.

 

[5-90]

LocTite is actually formulated to help prevent nuts rusting to bolts, so there's no harm in using it. I'd say go ahead.

I will very rarely put a screw in dry - it gets never-seez (particularly for exhaust hardware or undercar stuff,) LocTite (if I'm worried about it coming loose - usually either 222 or 242, 272 on exhaust hardware) or engine oil/chassis grease (where indicated - like the crankshaft nose screw.) If it goes into the water jacket, it gets PTFE paste.

Torque specs in the manual, unless specified, are for "clean, dry" threads. Modify as follows:

Engine oil/chassis grease: -25%
PTFE paste: -10%
LocTite: No Change

Never-seez is the tricky one. I've been using half of the "clean, dry" value for years without ill effects (never-seez is really very slippery, and turning the screw to full torque value can - and usually does - result in pulling the threads out of the mating part.) However, it seems that some of the newer stuff calls for no modification. Until I see it with mine own three eyes, I'll stick to half-value.

Note that some screws call for a particular compound to be applied - notable examples are the crankshaft nose screw (80 pound-feet with clean engine oil) and the #11 cylinder head screw (100 pound-feet with PTFE paste.) Do not deviate from these specifications!

As far as suspension stuff - especially where the screw clamps onto a bushing or draws a tapered shaft up into a tapered bore, the torque specs really should be followed. For anything that clamps on a bushing, also follow:

1) Thread the screw loosely into the assembly while on the jack (finger tight usually serves here - not more than 15-20 pound-feet, if you're so inclined.)

2) Set the vehicle on the ground. Remove jacks and stands.

3) Give each of the four corners a couple of good bounces, and let the vehicle settle.

4) Torque screws to specification.

This is done to let the bushings assume their "natural resting" position, and therefore reduce pre-strain on the bushings (if you torque it in the air and set it down, you'll start the bushings out with a twist - and accelerate wear on them.)

 

[Hammered]

blue loctite (used from factory also)

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=10&subid=48&plid=153


Locks threaded fasteners against vibration loosening
Ideal for nut and bolt applications 1/4" to 3/4" (6mm to 20mm)
Prevents threads from rusting and leaking
Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly
Temperature range: -65 degrees to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (-54 degrees to 149 degrees Celsius)

 

[lilredxj99]

Blue, not red. You just want something to keep it from backing off...... The red or heavy duty, permanent whatever you want to call it... Takes air tools or a Big Freaking Breaker Bar.

 

[Joev]

I wouldn't use locktite.. those bolts rust to the CA collars easily as it is, no need to help the process. Sounds like you need new nuts. The factory nuts are a metal "pinch" nut, but can and do wear out. When you get it all apart, take the bolt over to Ace Hardware in Thorndale. They have new metal lock-nuts in both metric and SAE. Or just match up the bolt and get all new hardware. Put anti-sieze on all the hardware and put it back together, so it will come apart easily the NEXT time your taking it apart (when you put on the long arms in 5 months:jester.

New Nuts are great...Hehe...Nuts

 

[MrSimon]

New Nuts are great...Hehe...Nuts

Dude, you are just a big kid .... who likes to play with his toy trucks!

 

[Joev]

Yeah. I am a big kid. Keeps a man young. I cannot wait to go wheelin..XJ Style.

But not to hijack your thread, Blue LT should be some good insurance.

 

[ghettocruiser]

He's a big kid...until you catch him taking his back and blood pressure pills and starts telling you stories from 'nam.

I agree with what everyone else said. Ive never used loctite on my control arm bushing hardware. I use antiseize on the part of the bolt that goes through the collar, because as Andy said, they rust in those collars. Then its a real fun task getting things apart.

Grab some of those deformed lock nuts and they wont come off on their own...A DAB of blue loctite wont hurt. A DAB...a little goes a long way.

I dont think Ive used a torque wrench for anything other than the head bolts on my Jeep haha. Everything else gets a certain level of "grunt" for tightness.

J.

 

[Joev]

Ah, youth!!!

 

[Art Triggs]

No loctite, I use some antisieze and the right torque for the bolts in question - I havent had trouble with control arm bolts at the full torque value with antisieze, I can see how some things might give you trouble though, ymmv

 

[MrSimon]

Maybe my problem is that I'm using replacement Grade 8 hardware ... and I'm just using a basic nut/flat washer set-up.

I wonder if the anti-sieze between the nut and the washer make it slippery and thats why they are coming loose.

The locknut idea seems like the way to go.