Çrestfa||en
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Snohomish, WA
Ok I replaced the spring I busted yesterday. Olympic(the 4x4 shop here) didn't include a set of springs and pins the first time I got the lockright. I went back got the pins and springs but they didn't seem sure if it was the right ones(but I kinda disregared this at the time). So we install the whole thing properly this time even making sure by using a tutorial at 4x4wire.com. We get it done yet the whole setup seems loose still, the springs that push the pins are really loose they don't push the locker into engagement. We aren't sure so we bolt the diff up add oil and go out to test it.
When we hit the trail the first thing we did was try a hill in 2wd. Only one wheel spun. We backed it up, tried again... this time both wheels spun. A couple more tests produced erratic results with some attempts resulting in the left wheel spinning, and some the right. Then the final attempt resulted in BOTH sides disengaging and the whole center section of the differential (crosspin and the two inside locking plates) spinning freely. We drove it out in 4wd and then put it back into two on the street, but still had only one tire driving the entire time. Put it into fulltime 4wd and experienced some driveline vibrations around 45mph.
Obviously those springs are responsible and aren't fully engaging the teeth. My question is are there big differences between the size of the lockright pins and springs between different model differentials? Such as if they gave us a dana 30 spring kit instead of the correct 35. I really don't want to have to remove those pins, it's a royal pain to take out everything once it's coated in gear oil. But if it's just the springs, it's no big deal, just pop off the cover and slide em in. Longer springs should correct this problem right?
When we hit the trail the first thing we did was try a hill in 2wd. Only one wheel spun. We backed it up, tried again... this time both wheels spun. A couple more tests produced erratic results with some attempts resulting in the left wheel spinning, and some the right. Then the final attempt resulted in BOTH sides disengaging and the whole center section of the differential (crosspin and the two inside locking plates) spinning freely. We drove it out in 4wd and then put it back into two on the street, but still had only one tire driving the entire time. Put it into fulltime 4wd and experienced some driveline vibrations around 45mph.
Obviously those springs are responsible and aren't fully engaging the teeth. My question is are there big differences between the size of the lockright pins and springs between different model differentials? Such as if they gave us a dana 30 spring kit instead of the correct 35. I really don't want to have to remove those pins, it's a royal pain to take out everything once it's coated in gear oil. But if it's just the springs, it's no big deal, just pop off the cover and slide em in. Longer springs should correct this problem right?
