Lockers on a DANA 35? Noobie looking for serious advice.

[Hubbazoot]

Right now I'm running 30x9.5R15 tires, and the largest tires I plan on running are 30x10x5r15 so I'm not too worried about breaking an axle shaft. Right now I have an open DANA 35 in the rear and I'm finding my lack of traction frustrating, so I'm in the market for a locker. Before I get a locker, I want to know as much about them as possible.
-This is my daily driver.
-I don't want to weld my spider gears.
-Aussie, lock-rite, or Detroit? Pros/cons of each one?
-Pros/cons of locking both the front and back?
-How does having a locker in back effect handling? Front and back?
-What else do I need to know?

Please, I'm looking for some constructive advice.

 

[MrSimon]

You will get nearly unanimous responses saying that a locked D35 will easily break even with 30s and street driving.

Regarding lockers and drivability .... I don't know, my locker is still sitting in a box on my workbench.

 

[jd4x426]

unless you can set up gears get the ausie or the lock rite the dtroit will need setting up which isnt a project you want to tackle without the right tools and experience the other two wiil hold up fine and are super easy to install you can leave your carrier in the axle most of the time i just helped my freind put in an ausie it only took about 2 hours super easy and with those size tires your axles will snap long before those lockers have troubles

 

[Darky]

I'd look into an Aussie up front. Then find an 8.25 to swap in. You cna probably find someone who upgraded to a bigger axle out back and make an offer on their old 8.25 for fairly cheap. A locked D30 will hold up to 30s with no problems and in 2wd it won't even be noticeable. Mind you, I haven't driven anything with a locked front, but that's the general consensus around here.

 

[99xj4x4]

Just get an Aussie. Why? Because it the cheapest so after youve blown the d35 up the 2nd or 3rd time and realize its time to upgrade it you wont be out much money.

 

[ceb0217]

I have aussie's in front and rear with 33/12.50/15 on a 30/35 combo and its just fine so far. if you are abusave to it like nutural drops/reving it up dumping the clutch ya you are going to break stuff. I do notice my rear locker going around sweeping cornors if I get off and on the throttle but ya just have to learn to drive with it

 

[tbburg]

-This is my daily driver.

If you smash anything inside the rear axle, it sits until you find the money to replace it. If you really need a locker for the wheeling you do, you might consider getting an stock open axle out of a junk yard and leave it under the work bench "in case". You can probably get one from a yard for under a couple hundred. 'Could be cheap insurance

-Aussie, lock-rite, or Detroit? Pros/cons of each one?

Detroit(full case) locker is stronger then the others, but as mentioned above, you have to set the lash on the gear set when you put one in(bearing press, shim packs, dial indicator, etc.)
Aussie, lock-rite(and the Detroit EZ locker)are "drop in" and can usually be installed without removing the carrier(they replace the spider gears) They can take less then an hour to install. They're not as strong as the Detroit locker, but still strong enough to overload the axles

-Pros/cons of locking both the front and back?

Pro:It's like driving a totally different vehicle!
Con: cost twice as much, effects turning radius in 4wd, can cause handling quirks on extremely low traction conditions on pavement(ice, snow, etc)

-How does having a locker in back effect handling? Front and back?

Rear locker: You go around corners at coast/low power, or chirp a tire; it grows on you. You have to learn to pay attention in any low traction conditions on pavement, or you will spin out. Again, you get used to it.
Front and back: In 2wd, you will never know the front locker is up there. If you have to use 4wd on road, it's probably due to poor weather. The lockers work great, but they're designed for off road. On pavement, in low traction(ice/snow) you pay attention, or you crash.

-What else do I need to know?

If you don't already, learn to pay attention. It's a daily driver, so learn throttle control. Hammer a basically stock rig with a locker, and you break parts. :looney:

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

I would suggest Locking the front first with an aussie.

 

[msrorysddad]

lock the front, save up money, get a better rear end. I know you will hear people that tell you the d35 is ok. Is ok enough? Why drop 300$ on a diff that's not worth 150$? I run 35 bfg ats and feel I'm pushin an 8.25, I have a d44 in the garage as a backup. I've got a richmond powertrax up front, it makes all the difference. I wheel in 2wd for the most part, then toss it in 4wd when I feel the need. The d30 will take a locker, you can swap the front d30, and not feel as bad, the 35 is just not worth the cash. I'm bored, my opinion is worth what it's worth. Lock the front, replace the rear, then think about a locker in front.

 

[muddyrocks]

Know this, once you do get a locker or two, you will never go back! Lockers rule. The point is make the decision based on how you will be using it; it makes a world of difference. Light foot, small axle ok! Heavy foot big axle ok! Accidental foot you will need the upgrade. I run a D35 with 33's no problem with an ARB; I like to lock it on wet pavement at drive throughs to hear the tires speakI only have to crawl to do it, no throttle. On another Jeep I have an 8.8 with a Detroit and aftermarket shafts with 35" Krawlers and I will hammer it out of a parking lot on a dry day to hear the tires talk.

All in what you will do to it.

 

[Weasel]

You will get nearly unanimous responses saying that a locked D35 will easily break even with 30s and street driving.

If you drive dumb then yeah. I've wheeled mine with 33's and locked via ARB and new broke anything; it's easy, don't start hopping, limit wheel spin and don't wedge tires under things. I've done plenty of rock trails and got along just fine. For 31's or 30's I would stick with a locked 35 no problems. ARB is for sale if your interested.

 

[jeeperjohn]

I would suggest Locking the front first with an aussie.

X2 I wouldn't put a D35 through the stress of a locker. Also you will see more benefit from locking just the front than if you just locked the back. Note that if you drive alot in snow then this may not be the best choice.

 

[Deadman 94 xj]

Depends on how and if you wheel. You're D35 will hold up fine to 30's you just can't drive like an idiot. Know your limits. I know guys in a local club that wheel 35's locked on stock shafts. Not the best idea for sure but one of them took three seasons before he broke.

So to answer your question, yes you can do it. If you have build plans in your future than it's a waste of time and money. If you plan to stay where you are, throw an aussie in there and have fun.

PS, no Detroit in the D35!

 

[nosigma]

I love these D35 "discussions".

If you cant bring yourself to spend $150 on an 8.25 or D44 at the Pick-n-Pull then my advice is to run small tires, dont lock it and stay away from rocks.

Stay Small, Stay Open, Stay On The Porch

John

 

[Deadman 94 xj]

I love these D35 "discussions".

If you cant bring yourself to spend $150 on an 8.25 or D44 at the Pick-n-Pull then my advice is to run small tires, dont lock it and stay away from rocks.

Stay Small, Stay Open, Stay On The Porch

John

Way to jump on the band wagon.

He's on 30's. I beat the piss out of my D35 when I had it, on 33's I never broke! Learn how to drive!

 

[WB9YZU]

Locking a D35 should me no real issue. People do it all the time. I've run lockers in every D35 I have ever owned. The smallest tire I have run is a 31X10.50X15, and the largest a 33X12.50X15. You have less of a chance of breaking a D35 shaft than you would locking the front and breaking a drivers side front shaft.

That being said, I agree that the longevity of an axle, any axle, is mostly a function of the driver and his connection to the stupid pedal.

I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on the D35 locker, a lunchbox locker should work fine.

 

[nosigma]

I admit that I am late to this one, but I have a long history of hating the D35.

Something about repeatedly wasting a half day or more of wheeling recovering rigs with broke D35's has soured me on that axle.

John

 

[yourconfusedhaha]

my 35 is welded on 33's and i beat the hell out of it, pay on rocks, snow, pavement

i am suprised it hasnt broke yet though

 

[WB9YZU]

Nosigma, I see you upgraded your front axles.

I'd be willing to be you have seen more broken front shafts on the trail than you have seen broken D35s.

If people spent as much money on their D35s as you spent on your "Dana Turdy", they would have increased reliability also.

Just an observation.

 

[Deadman 94 xj]

I admit that I am late to this one, but I have a long history of hating the D35.

Something about repeatedly wasting a half day or more of wheeling recovering rigs with broke D35's has soured me on that axle.

John

I agree. I've been on a few of those recoveries myself in places that the OP probably wouldn't attempt, or at least I hope not.

I'm not trying to defend the turdyfive, but if you have it wheel it within it's limits.