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Locker questions for '01 XJ

Don't put a true-trac in the rear, they aren't strong enough. I did some pretty hardcore stuff wid` a rear Auburn and front True Trac. I never had any problem with a bunch of "locker only" trails. I still have a True Trac in my front D44, but I now have a Detroit in the rear.

If you have an automatic tranny, just put in a Detroit in the rear. All you have to do is adopt your around town driving style to keep a consistent throttle around coblers so it doesn't lock or tnlo"i with a bunch of fanfare. Out on the backroads, and on the Interstate, the Detroit and the Auburn behave the exact same, leanng you don't notice either. With the True Trac up front, the thing is so solid in the snow I can't even get it to kick out by stomping on the throttle, although I do have the 242 case.

But do the Auburn rear if you want a rear posi - it is very strong, the primary application being street racing. Little bit of e-braking when you need it, and you'll be able to do everything but the very extreme. If you like the very extreme, don't put a posi in either axle, lock 'em both with full carrier replacemdnt ,kckers.

Nay
 
locker questions

Are you sure you're not thinking of Trac Loc?....which came as OEM posi in our vehicles.
TrueTrac uses gears for traction in diff. where Auburn uses cone clutchs that can wear out and I read aren't rebuildable :(

BLUTO :)
 
Re: locker questions

BLUTO said:
Are you sure you're not thinking of Trac Loc?....which came as OEM posi in our vehicles.
TrueTrac uses gears for traction in diff. where Auburn uses cone clutchs that can wear out and I read aren't rebuildable :(

BLUTO :)

The cool thing about Auburn limit slips is that they are exchangable ! Check out the Auburn web site. They have a replacement program where you can exchange your worn out Auburn for a completely rebuild one for $85. Roughly the same cost of rebuilding a Trac Loc yourself, without the hassles of doing the actual rebuild. It's a simple swap out procedure. The following link explains it all...

http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/drex/

Ivan
 
Definitely Auburn. You should get 100K good miles out of one, and then it is a swap. The True Trac is known to blow up in rear axle use, even with relatively small tires. Last time I checked, the Auburn was rated at about the strength of a full Detroit locker. Neither the True Trac nor Trac Lok compares strengthwise, and both are known to grenade with relatively small tires.

I am always perplexed by moderate wheelers who put lockers in the rear axle only. I never once had a situation where a guy with just a rear locker could do a difficult obstacle that also stopped me. You just don't need lockers in an XJ for moderate wheeling. And if you are going to put in two lockers, you are getting serious enough that you should think about the entire package (suspension design, axles, diffs, etc).

I'll disagree on the snow comment, though. I prefer the Detroit in the snow (with 242 case). The Auburn had a greater tendency to kick out the rear without warning.

Nay
 
not for d35

One thing is that the Auburn isn't availble for the Dana 35. So, if you have a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle, great, but if not your choices are more limited.
 
I am always perplexed by moderate wheelers who put lockers in the rear axle only. I never once had a situation where a guy with just a rear locker could do a difficult obstacle that also stopped me. You just don't need lockers in an XJ for moderate wheeling

I can understand what you're saying, Nay, and I certainly don't want to sound like I know what you know about XJ's but I'd like to take exception to your views on moderate wheeling w/a rear locker only.

I have.....well, you can see at the bottom of my post what my cherokee has. I can't hard core it like some of you guys with the radical rigs can but I do wheel it as much as possible and I'll try driving it over anything at least once. (more if I don't break it! :rolleyes: ) The locker was the last mod I added and it made a WORLD of difference in where I can go and what I can do with it. I don't have to 'hit' the climb as hard to get momentum to make it over the obsticle. When the rear was open, anytime I twisted it up even just a little I would have a spinning wheel front and back. I would then have to back away a bit and hit it harder so the momentum would get me through. I don't hardly have to do that anymore. I can actually take it easier on the rig and still do better then when it was open. I don't break things as much if I'm not hammering on it all the time either.

I do agree with you that a rig should be built with the right parts for the type of wheeling you want to do, ie; bigger axles etc. Due to budget constraints, it takes most of us some time to get to that plateau. I try to upgrade parts every time I get some extra bucks. I'm on to 31's in the next month and hopefully I can upgrade all the things you've mentioned in the near future. Until then, I'm wheeling ol' blue until I've conquered everything there is or the wheels fall off, which ever comes first! :D
 
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